Project Hundy Build Thread - 2000 UZJ100 Land Cruiser
- Thread starter cruiseroutfit
- Start date
Wes Craiglow
Member
Mauka2Makai
Explorer
Thanks... Looked Phantogram up in Youtube... they have an interesting video for When I'm Small.
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
PetitFrereArmada
Explorer
Nice video. How much does a build like this cost? Seems like a lot. Can you share an approximate cost of it?
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
Obviously there is a plethora of variables but totally shooting from the hip I'd suspect we could do something similar for $15k?
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
So I'm having a bit of a aux. lighting quandary. The 100 Series currently has a set of IPF 900XS lights on the front bumper at standard headlight height, one spot and one driving, no complaints there they work really well. Obviously it has the stock headlights with upgraded low beam bulbs (still dismal but more on that fix soon). I picked up a 36" LED light bar from Iron Moose, we've used a handful of their lights on projects here locally and they have been great, figured it was time for me to try one on the 100 and I had always envisioned having a nice flood mounted up high, i.e. above the windshield. So I've got the mounting figured out for the light bar to fit in the gap between the rack and the roof, no heartache there, my quandary is how to wire it.
My front IPF's are triggered by the OEM fog lamp switch, it is modified to allow them in high beam or low beam operation, but the headlights must be on. Pro is I have flexibility with high/low, con is I have to switch them off on the highway when passing but the switch is on the factory lights stalk so it hasn't been an issue. So how do I set up the light bar?
Options 1 would be to trigger with the same OE fog lamp switch. That way I either have all my aux. lights blasting or none. When I pass I simply flip the one switch off and it kills both lights? Is there a scenario I would want to use the IPF's but not the higher LED? I just can't envision one in my mind but it's late and I'm tired
Option two is to install an OE switch in the blank. I have a Toyota switch here with the roof light icon, would be a clean install into the switch panel left of the steering column. Pro would be that I can independently control the LED separate of the IPF's, con is the passing scenario in which I'm now dealing with 3 switches in 2 locations. Boo.
Option 3 is a combo. I can make the LED switch on the dash triggered by the OE fog switch. So that I can turn on the IPF's and then the LED or just the IPF. In a pass scenario killing the IPF's kills the LED. Downside is the LED's can't be controlled separate but again I can think of less of a reason to be able to turn that light on separate of the headlights or IPF's.
Confusing enough? That is what is rolling through my head tonight
Any suggestions or experiences based on your setups?
My front IPF's are triggered by the OEM fog lamp switch, it is modified to allow them in high beam or low beam operation, but the headlights must be on. Pro is I have flexibility with high/low, con is I have to switch them off on the highway when passing but the switch is on the factory lights stalk so it hasn't been an issue. So how do I set up the light bar?
Options 1 would be to trigger with the same OE fog lamp switch. That way I either have all my aux. lights blasting or none. When I pass I simply flip the one switch off and it kills both lights? Is there a scenario I would want to use the IPF's but not the higher LED? I just can't envision one in my mind but it's late and I'm tired
Option two is to install an OE switch in the blank. I have a Toyota switch here with the roof light icon, would be a clean install into the switch panel left of the steering column. Pro would be that I can independently control the LED separate of the IPF's, con is the passing scenario in which I'm now dealing with 3 switches in 2 locations. Boo.
Option 3 is a combo. I can make the LED switch on the dash triggered by the OE fog switch. So that I can turn on the IPF's and then the LED or just the IPF. In a pass scenario killing the IPF's kills the LED. Downside is the LED's can't be controlled separate but again I can think of less of a reason to be able to turn that light on separate of the headlights or IPF's.
Confusing enough? That is what is rolling through my head tonight
Any suggestions or experiences based on your setups?
ttora4runner
Expedition Leader
Find this switch (P/N 84160-28010):
RobRed
Explorer
Use the factory fog switch to energize a circuit for both led and ipf lights, master if you will. Have a switch for control power to each aux light bank.
Now when passing you simply use the factory fog light switch to kill all aux lighting. You have independent control of led, ipf or both.
I mounted 3 hella switches in the blank cover panel where AHC controls normally go. You should also have 2 blanks left of steering wheel for OEM switches.
Now when passing you simply use the factory fog light switch to kill all aux lighting. You have independent control of led, ipf or both.
I mounted 3 hella switches in the blank cover panel where AHC controls normally go. You should also have 2 blanks left of steering wheel for OEM switches.
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
Find this switch (P/N 84160-28010):
Assuming that is double throw? Unfortunately it is no longer avail from Toyota and it won't fit my dash. Find me one (double throw) that will fit the later style blanks and I'm all for it.
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
Sadly I have just one available blank left left of the column as I've already got a switch their for the rear aux. lights. I may be able to move the rear light switch to one of the spare blanks in the center of the dash but it occupies a horizontal switch spot left of the column so the light emblem points to the rear, easy for folks to see.
I have the 'holder' in my AHC spot that I am quite fond of for my phone or music device, change, keys, etc... not willing to give that up for practicality of switches
RobRed
Explorer
You won't be able to put a switch in the blank in the center stack as there is already one under that blank for the rear heater. The switches there are all integrated to the ac amplifier.
That hidden heater switch is active and triggers a relay at the driver kick panel so some wiring shenanigans could render it useable.
I will post a pic of my 3 switch bank maybe that will inspire you.
That hidden heater switch is active and triggers a relay at the driver kick panel so some wiring shenanigans could render it useable.
I will post a pic of my 3 switch bank maybe that will inspire you.
ttora4runner
Expedition Leader
What about a switch like this? You'd have to find some place on your dash or center console then basterize your LC with a VW part
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-...ETTA-GOLF-MK4-EURO-1C0941531A/1292355963.html
Be kind of cool if you get it to work.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-...ETTA-GOLF-MK4-EURO-1C0941531A/1292355963.html
Be kind of cool if you get it to work.
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
Ooooh, very good to know. I took a closer look at that blank this morning and it is a different profile than the left column ones so my switch would be a no go there anyway. Thanks for the heads up!