Project Mini Hägglund

From the sound of things, I assumed you either put in a larger fuse or a larger breaker without upgrading the rest of the circuit to handle the higher current. However, if your father is an electrician, I'm sure he knows what he is doing and the circuit is designed appropriately.

Carry on! :ylsmoke:

We put in new breakers that shut off slower. Same amperage but other characteristics. When the motor starts turning it needs a lot more power than to keep it turning and this pike is what kept blowing the breakers. With the slower units it works just fine...

Finished up the motor mount and belt tensioner:

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Then the sanding belts arrived:

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Looks like i got it right:

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Because of this i was able to start the sanding belt tensioner. First mockup:

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Making the parts:

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Mockup:

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Finished:

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Wired everything:

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On it`s new home:

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It ran like a charm on the first try. I`m really happy with it, it has a lot (too much) power and removes stuff quickly. Just what i always wanted...

No it`s time to carry on with the sanding disc...
 

Treenail

Adventurer
I've done some fabricating in my shop and worked in machine assembly in college. The time that it takes to build the projects that you have is amazing. Nothing but high quality from what I've seen.

Where do you find the time? I assume that your thread updates are done in relative real-time. When I see your progress from one post to the next I wonder...when does he sleep...eat...socialize? :Wow1:

Are you going to include some sort of spark/dust collector system on your grinder? Besides being messy sparks in the air are dangerous and unhealthy.

Keep up the inspiring work!

Tom
 

SLO_F-250

Explorer
^^ What he said! I am amazed as well as I have gotten myself head high in projects. Mostly desert toys. Keep up the great work. I want to be like you "when I grow up!" LOL! :bowdown:
 
I've done some fabricating in my shop and worked in machine assembly in college. The time that it takes to build the projects that you have is amazing. Nothing but high quality from what I've seen.

Where do you find the time? I assume that your thread updates are done in relative real-time. When I see your progress from one post to the next I wonder...when does he sleep...eat...socialize? :Wow1:

Are you going to include some sort of spark/dust collector system on your grinder? Besides being messy sparks in the air are dangerous and unhealthy.

Keep up the inspiring work!

Tom

Thanks. The updates are real time. First thing i do when i come out of the shop is to upload the updates. It`s all about priorities, i`m working every free minute on it. It`s like 8h at work and another 4-6h in my shop every day...

While building the beltsander i had some time to rethink the Hägglund. I just didn`t like the chains and decided that i`ll start over and build a transaxle setup. Rotate the engine 90 degrees and put a differential up front and one in the rear car...
Give`s me also a great gear reduction. Top speed is about 20mph in 5th... It also give`s me a vacuum activated pto, ot sure what i`ll use it for. Maybe a hydraulic pump for additional stuff that`s not needed while driving...

Starting over tomorrow...
 
Sad start today:

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But this will just be better:

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A few thoughts:
The engine will stick out a bit more on the rear, but this will be covered by a hood. Should look similar to the fuel tanks on the BV206. Because of the driveshaft i can`t use my tank anymore. This is what bothers me most, but maybe i can make it work somehow. I should be able to squeeze the seat a bit more backwards over the transmission. Should give me back a bit of the legroom that the diff takes now.
The shifting linkage will be a lot easier, just unusual because it`s rotated 90°. I can also move the wiring loom to the right so i can get in from the left. Simplifies things a lot...

I also did the math on the final reduction and speeds (km/h):

bersetzungsverhltnisl7ua3.jpg
 

redthies

Renaissance Redneck
And now instead of sitting on a gas bomb, you can keep things interesting by straddling a spinning drive shaft:yikes:

I'm sure your new design will be better. Shafts are almost always better than chains. Keep up the good work!
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
Steinez, I need to know why the sudden change over to a driveshaft and axel system. Is there something I dont know? Secret footage of chains coming off at 7000 rpm? Just kidding.:Wow1: Your progress looks excellent with the tools and the Hågglund!:Wow1: But tell me, how are you going to transfer power to the rear Hågglund unit now that you are using the hook up for the forward Hågglund? Ahh you have so many secrets Steinez...:)
 
I just wasn`t happy with the chains any more. Shafts will be much better... Where do you see a problem to power the rear car? Left axle shaft goes to the front, right to the rear...

Started removing the main beam today. It`ll be completely rebuild so the drive shaft is on the inside...

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Got an awesome deal on this grinder:

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Undy

New member
Where do you see a problem to power the rear car? Left axle shaft goes to the front, right to the rear...

I've been watching this for quite a while. I was confused about the changes you'd planned last, and now I'm totally lost.

In my mind, I was imagining the Justy drivetrain as similar to my Impreza, and some way to make it work for your project, ie. two front axle outputs from the transmission (through an internal diff) to power the front unit's tracks, with a driveshaft (cardan, propeller shaft) going back to power the rear unit's tracks via the car's rear diff.

So I'm not understanding this: Left axle shaft goes to the front, right to the rear

Can you describe the general plan you're going after for me? Thanks.

BTW, very cool project and very nicely done so far!!
 
This is called a transaxle setup. There are three outputs on the tranny. Front left wheel, front right wheel and drive shaft to the rear axle. Now i rotated the engine 90° so the left/right shaft go to the front and to the rear. The rear axle output goes sideways and is not really needed. It will be used as a pto...

I hope you got the idea, if not i can draw something up...
 

Undy

New member
Thanks, that does help me to visualize how you're doing it, and it confirms that the Justy and my Impreza are set up similarly.

I was assuming that if you ran the front unit off the two front wheel axle drives, then you could operate either only the front unit (if you wanted to), or could attach the rear unit by driving it off the rear driveshaft output. Plus then, the front axle outputs would be easy to run directly to the track sprockets, and the rear unit could utilize the car's rear differential so it could run directly to those track's sprockets as well.

With your new configuration, the front differential will be open, which will be fine if you've got both units attached, but you won't be able to drive the front unit separately unless you lock the differential. And I'd think you would want the differential to work for when the second unit is attached. Plus, you'll still need to incorporate some type of side-to-side differentials for each unit, won't you?

Are you still planning to ram-steer the two units?

I think I kind of preferred the original engine orientation, because it utilized the front internal differential for turns and still retained the internal rear clutching which could feed power to the rear unit, but still allow the front and rear units to have different track speeds as they cornered. (I know, I know. Then I should just build one myself. No criticism intended.)

I can't wait to see how your plan works out. Thanks very much for sharing!!
 
Hi,
thanks for your post, i really like to discuss things...

Thanks, that does help me to visualize how you're doing it, and it confirms that the Justy and my Impreza are set up similarly.

I was assuming that if you ran the front unit off the two front wheel axle drives, then you could operate either only the front unit (if you wanted to), or could attach the rear unit by driving it off the rear driveshaft output. Plus then, the front axle outputs would be easy to run directly to the track sprockets, and the rear unit could utilize the car's rear differential so it could run directly to those track's sprockets as well.

This won`t be possible, because there`s no way to steer the front car alone. It will be ram-steered, so it needs the second car to attach. I can`t steer the front unit by the brakes, with the added reduction the differential would blow up at the first try...
And, it`s everything else than easy to run the front axle outputs to the drive sprockets. I tried it and failed...

With your new configuration, the front differential will be open, which will be fine if you've got both units attached, but you won't be able to drive the front unit separately unless you lock the differential. And I'd think you would want the differential to work for when the second unit is attached. Plus, you'll still need to incorporate some type of side-to-side differentials for each unit, won't you?

It is open now, but i`m going to weld it locked. I also don`t want any differential to work, i think i`ll weld them all. The only thing that can stop a Hägglund on steep slopes are the open differentials, this is why a lot of guys install lockers or keep them locked. There`s just no need for differentials in a vehicle like this...

I think I kind of preferred the original engine orientation, because it utilized the front internal differential for turns and still retained the internal rear clutching which could feed power to the rear unit, but still allow the front and rear units to have different track speeds as they cornered. (I know, I know. Then I should just build one myself. No criticism intended.)

There`s no think like a center differential in the Justy transfercase, the front and rear axles always spinning at the same speed. This is why you shouldn`t drive 4WD in a Justy on pavement. The new design would incorporate a center differential if i wouldn`t weld it...


Btw., this setup has been built many times in single seater rockcrawler buggies...
 

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