Project MULE - Expedition build on a 1991 1500 4x4 Suburban

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
Finally nice to me with you too Larry!

I think part of the gearbox issues was the weld in frame kit. I don't think that was entirely flush with the frame so there was some "spongyness" in there and I think it just worked loose but its fixed.

The TPI project will definitely be interesting for the results. I had came across a few articles with dyno tests showing just over 400lb of torque with Vortec heads, the TPI with the 24lb injectors (2lbs over stock) and a GMMP ZZ4 roller cam. The magic combo is really the TPI and heads All low and mid range. I ran a basic desktop dyno finding 293hp and 432lb tq. Using something like the Weiand stealth ram or a new LT1 intake is more for top end loosing power for pulling with the shorter runners.

Yeah, I was thinking the bolts coming loose were also directly related to the weld in steering box brace. I don’t remember if your frame was cracked or not, but if not the weld in frame brace was unnecessary not to mention welding a frame when you don’t really need to does more harm than good to these old frames as you heat up and soften areas that were once heat treated. I know you like to weld though even when you don’t have to :sombrero:. If the frame was not broke, the simple bolt in brace from ORD is more than sufficient for the wheeling we’ll ever throw at our rigs. Also did you also reuse the spacers that were originally on the back side of the frame where the bolts passed through? Those spacers are intended to allow for a longer bolt to achieve a higher clamp load when applying torque to the gear box fasteners. Bolts are more than threaded pieces of rod, they are also a mechanical object that works like a spring where they stretch for higher clamping forces. If you removed the spacers, add them back. A lot of people remove those spacers from steering gears and frame crossmembers fasteners for some reason then run into repeat loose fasteners in those areas.

The TPI sounds good in theory. Hopefully it will perform the way you expect. The deal breaker with these projects is the ECM tuning once you get it all bolted together. I ran a 454HO with a L29 7.4L intake running a marine MEFI-4 ECM for a short while. That concoction is basically a similar larger version of the small block TPI set up where the injectors are batch fired but mine was running speed density rather than MAF. I could never get that SOB tuned properly where I was happy the way it performed. It got yanked and replaced with the 8.1L that is in it now. Hopefully the MAF system you have will make tuning a lot easier. Speed density not so much, it was a hassle. I must say, TPI engines always did produce some respectable low end torque in an F-body car. Anxious to see how it propels a large vehicle like loaded up burb.
 

PMA4x4

Adventurer
The steering did stiffen up better and you can actually see no movement at the gearbox now. but I t was my fault for not rechecking the bolts prior to the trip and the spacers stayed in. If it was in there from factory I figured there was a reason.

The TPI has been proven to produce power beyond theory. torque is torque and the rpm range is 2200 to 3000 for peak torque range which plays right into the cruise range. I am going to run a MAF. the TPI I got is MAF the ECM I got is a MAF the harness I got is MAF.

MAF MAF MAF! :Wow1::Wow1: The MAF is a lot more forgiving to cams sizes, injectors, vacuum, etc. I think it will turn out good. I have faith in these numbers:coffeedrink:
 
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PMA4x4

Adventurer
OK got lucky. Sold the 305 (the motor I pickup was wrong) in a week and made money on the deal. I then found a '99 Vortec 5.7 locally for a good price complete with accessories. Verified the heads and block casting first this time.:whistle:

This is my own dang fault for not verifying the casting numbers. The guy said it was a 350 and the casting number I first saw was the right numbers just not the ones to verify a block. Mental note and a reminder for everyone. When buying a motor always verify the full casting numbers!

Let the tear down begin!
 

PMA4x4

Adventurer
Ok first remove the stupid spider Fuel injection system

engine-001.jpg



Next tear it down until it resembles a small block chevy.

engine-002.jpg


engine-003.jpg



Job well done:haha:
 

PMA4x4

Adventurer
Full rebuild
New vortec heads
Roller cam (212/218 4.88/496" 112 LS)
New GM roller lifters
Full 1.5roller Rockers
Scoggin Dickey TPI Vortec intake manifold.
Tuned Port Injection
24lb injectors
Small tube headers

Other stuff
'89 ECM and harness (thats the plan)
MAF sensor
Flashed EPROM
 

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
Actually, that spider CFSI runs great when you convert it to MPFI. A lot more tuning possibilities with OBDII too.

BTW….not sure of your plans but I would keep those serpentine brackets that came with this engine as long as it clear the TPI intake. Those are the most desirable brackets as it allows for use of the efficient HT6 A/C compressor. Much better compressor than the R4 we have on our Burbs now. Having custom A/C lines made is around $150.

Dang, that is a lot of money to put into a small block! You could have dropped in a running late model 7.4L or 8.1L for the same if not less (figure $700 - $1000 for an engine and $700 for a Howell harness). You're not going to save any fuel economy with a small block in a large rig like a Burb. The small blocks work their ******** off to move a big truck like that. My 8.1L K10 weighed in at 8,400 lbs before we left on the last trip and pulled 10.9 MPG average for the 1,717 mile trip. Could probably squeak off 12 - 13 in a light Burb without a camper on top :elkgrin:

Still anxious to see this come together. I've always like TPI engines but in a smaller truck
 

PMA4x4

Adventurer
All the 8.1s around here are pushing $2K (if not over) by themselves. Any 7.4 I get has well over 130K + miles so I would rebuild anyways and that's just costing more there. I would not want to put a high mileage engine in just to have it let go in a month. If it was that easy and cheap I would be doing a big block.

I plan to keep with Serpentine for sure. I am keeping the brackets and such. Didnt think about keeping the newer AC though. I am not sure how I will be doing the serpentine setup. my current setup has the tensioner right were the TPI throttle body is and the vortec is about the same.

Beyond rebuilding cost its not costing much more. Mainly the TPI to vortec Intake is the wallet hurter at $399! The roller rockers was a pass until a friend can get some 1.5 compcam rollers for a stupid price. I also am friends with a family that runs a machine shop so there are connections that help in this project. Relatively speaking a lot of guys dump a lot more into there SBCs.

Right now I am actually +$40 in pocket on this hole deal that's where it gets interesting!

Buy harness, ECM and TPI for $40
$275 for wrong motor
sell wrong motor for 500
pick up correct motor for 280
Pickup new Engine stand for 140
Remainder of $40 :wings:


Larry you should do a Tuned Port setup. I bet it would turn out great and look completely factory too! Your trucks and builds really need to be in some magazine articles!
 

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
All the 8.1s around here are pushing $2K (if not over) by themselves. Any 7.4 I get has well over 130K + miles so I would rebuild anyways and that's just costing more there. I would not want to put a high mileage engine in just to have it let go in a month. If it was that easy and cheap I would be doing a big block.

I plan to keep with Serpentine for sure. I am keeping the brackets and such. Didnt think about keeping the newer AC though. I am not sure how I will be doing the serpentine setup. my current setup has the tensioner right were the TPI throttle body is and the vortec is about the same.

Beyond rebuilding cost its not costing much more. Mainly the TPI to vortec Intake is the wallet hurter at $399! The roller rockers was a pass until a friend can get some 1.5 compcam rollers for a stupid price. I also am friends with a family that runs a machine shop so there are connections that help in this project. Relatively speaking a lot of guys dump a lot more into there SBCs.

Right now I am actually +$40 in pocket on this hole deal that's where it gets interesting!

Buy harness, ECM and TPI for $40
$275 for wrong motor
sell wrong motor for 500
pick up correct motor for 280
Pickup new Engine stand for 140
Remainder of $40 :wings:

That’s a bummer. There as an 8.1L on Craigslist in Tucson about 4 months ago for under $1000. I want to say it was $750 with around 80K miles on it. I think a guy on the 67-72 page bought it.

Looks like your doing great on the budget with selling stuff as you go!
waytogo.gif


Actually, I did a TPI but on a BB. Yes it looks different than a small block TPI but it is the same concept and what Marine considers Tuned Port Injection. 454HO, L29 Marine MPFI intake running on a RamJet 502 wiring harness and MEFI ECM which batch fires the injectors just like the small block TPI setups. In fact, the calibration was a reworked non-MAF TPI calpack. This thing caused me months of fits with tuning so it got yanked. The engine now lives in my FIL’s truck but with a TBI unit now.
2404163757_5590c880e2_z.jpg




Larry you should do a Tuned Port setup. I bet it would turn out great and look completely factory too! Your trucks and builds really need to be in some magazine articles!

Later this year it will be! :elkgrin:
 

PMA4x4

Adventurer
Finally getting around to building the center console and just ordered my ALDL Bluetooth adapter from 1320 Electronics. I already have the ADX file and App installed on my tablet. This is going to be pretty cool having realtime data on my tablet from a 24yr old OBD-I system.
 
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Renntag

Adventurer
Cool stuff. Looking forward to getting the info about the 1320 goodies.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

bigtrkltltrl

Observer
That was a great review. I will look into one for my truck. I have to see if they have one for Apple OS.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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