Project: True Budget Build! 87 Toyota Pickup.

toyrunner95

Explorer
Hello all!

I have had many build threads over the years and I have done a lot of research on different things for different vehicles. I realized that it's really hard and frustrating to build a truck on limited funds. That got me to thinking. I racked up the miles on my 13' Tacoma and needed a daily driver. (much like most young people) I wanted something simple, reliable, functional, and above all AFFORDABLE!

Without further adieu I give you SMURF!

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Now I will give you the story:I hit 50,000 miles on my Tacoma in 18 months so it became apparent that I needed to keep the miles down on it. I started my search where any good budget starts, craigslist.

After a few weeks of searching and a lucky 3 paycheck month. I liquidated some stuff and came up with some ready cash. I saw a few ads that peaked my interest but they were either beat to hell or too expensive. A decent truck will cost anywhere from $3,000 to $7,000. This is usually higher mileage, decent interior, and no modifications.

I wasn't about to pay $5,000 for a 25+ year old truck. Then again... maybe there is something to be said for longevity and value. I started to pick out what I NEEDED to accomplish my task. I also didn't want someone else's project. They are selling it for a reason. There is no point in buying a project unless its is just that, a project.

Reliability: It needs to run every day, no leaks, no odd noises, no random failures of systems.
Affordability: Cheap to drive and maintain as well as repair.
Dependability: This is my gauge on how much "faith" or "trust" I put into a vehicle.

I had 2 3.0 V6 motors in 2 separate 4runners. Needless to say, NO. No more 3.0 V6 POS nightmare. So that left me with either a newer say early 2000's pickup/runner, OR a early 80's to early 90's pickup/runner. I wanted a 20R, 22R, 22RE, OR a 96' and newer V6. As I searched it became apparent that the later model trucks were out of the price range. It also became apparent that finding a unmolested older truck was like finding gold on the moon. I started to waiver on my search parameters when I came across this gem.

This 1987 Toyota pickup was in this guys driveway and he had the ad up for 1 day and got 5 calls on it. I lived the closest so of course I cannon balled the 15 miles there and looked at it.

It had everything I wanted. Bone stock except for a newer 22RE from a 94' pickup. The original was a turbo and it blew up. This guy was a contractor and out of work on L&I and needed cash. Without a test drive I bought it. Who cares, all it has to do is get me home and I'll worry about the rest later right?! What could possibly go wrong!

Upon driving it the brakes were mushy at best, most of the lights didn't work, the parking brake was seized, weather cracked tires, the drivers window was stuck down, and the temp gauge didn't work.

On the plus side! the cab is flawless! the doors shut clean! There is hardly any rust. The bed has a hole I discovered yesterday that I patched with concrete adhesive (shut up its all I had for filler)

It came with the canopy with fold up win-doors. This will make a perfect exploring truck!

I set to work. What was first, the window. The door panel was shot so that came off easy. Come to find out, the window was out of the track. Pulled the glass out. Then the window track. Assembled on the bench, put it back in the door, FIXED!

Second I suspected the water temp sensor was bad. Ran to the auto parts store and got a replacement and boom, that was fixed.... sort of. I noticed that the gauge would work, then not work, then work, then not work, I would tap on it and it would work.... hmm... bust out the screw driver. I pulled out the 3 of 5 screws holding the dash cluster in, un hooked the speed cable and 3 electrical plugs. I tested the gauge and found the gauge was faulty. Then I started the truck with a thermometer in the top of the radiator. After about 5 min, the temp started to rise indicating that coolant was indeed circulating meaning that it wasn't overheating.

After that I replaced the master cylinder. Mainly because when you have to flinstone your way to a stop at a light the cops frown on it. After some sourcing I found a direct replacement and put that in today. The brakes work now and there is no fade but I think the booster is gone. It just feels like manual brakes. The parking brake was an easy fix. I didn't. Turns out the handle had disconnected from the cable and was bent. The brake wasn't on at all.

Anyway. After a quick rinse I am ready for work tomorrow. I will need tires eventually but they are out of budget at the moment. I will be keeping a running tally on everything I buy for the truck as well as a total at the end of each post. That way it is a straight up visual for any one to see what this hobby can cost. The other thing I plan on doing is buying things off the shelf. No fabrication if at all possible. Its not a budget build if you have to make everything, then its at best a home build. I also have stuff in my garage that I may or may not use. If I do I will update the price sheet accordingly. I will try and update sources of parts and pieces as i come across them. Garage sales and swap meets are your best friends.

Stuff to date.
Truck $2,700 +176.00 tax and licence
Temp sensor $18.49
Fuse assortment $15.99
Master cylinder $80.00 (cash will bring prices down at small mechanic shops ;)

TOTAL: $2990.48

This is gonna be a fun build.
 
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toyrunner95

Explorer
I started this build and digging through my old stuff I found a notebook with an old set of articles from 4WD and Sport Utility Magazine. I was called the 300,000 mile adventure vehicle. I had cut out the articles and glued them into a notebook. This is all I can find online anymore. But I figure this is a good baseline. Its what got me started down this path almost 15 years ago.
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This truck is an 85' pickup with a LC Engineering motor, all pro solid axle upgrade. (they gutted the stock and replaced the suspension basically) can back canopy, (sadly out of business), ARB lockers, AllPro tube front and rear tube bumpers (wish they still made the front one), Power tank air, and 35' Maxxis 8090 creepy crawlers. This truck spanned the 2002 to 2005 issues. Last recap was Jan 2005. All the articles and pics were taken by Kevin McNulty when he was a tech editor I think.
 
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airbornegrunt82

New member
Sub'd, wish I could find an unmolested rig for that price down here. Looking forward to the build and the on the cheap DIY projects.


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tanglefoot

ExPoseur
It looks great, but I guess it's got some gremlins. Sounds like you're getting them worked out though.

You're much braver than I to purchase without driving...yikes!

I'm not afraid of used tires. I looked to Craigslist when mine were getting too weather cracked and ended up with a fairly fresh set of matching 30x9.50s for $10/each.
 

toyrunner95

Explorer
It looks great, but I guess it's got some gremlins. Sounds like you're getting them worked out though.

You're much braver than I to purchase without driving...yikes!

Well the theory was that its 15 miles, what could go wrong. Why? Because Roadkill... (if you get that reference good on ya) I did start the vehicle and he said that it did move and drive ok.
 

toyrunner95

Explorer
SEATS!!! OMFG MY BACK IS KILLING ME LOL!!! It needs seats. I like the bench however I need cup holders. How can I kill 2 birds with 1 stone on this without fabricating something. Here is the plan. This weekend I am going to yank out the seat and try my hand at re- padding it. Foam is really expensive so I will need to source something comparable. The factory upholstery isn't too bad but a seat cover may be the way to go on that. Also I want to mount my RTT and some roof lights because well... Whats an 80's Toyota without roof lights right?! I think I can scrounge up some lights from somewhere on the cheap. I will keep you guys posted.
 

tanglefoot

ExPoseur
It might just be easier to swap out seats. I'm using a pair of Subaru Impreza front buckets (the mounting holes line up with a little encouragement) that were on Craiglist for $20/pair. They're quite comfy.

Bike water bottle cages make cool cupholders. They don't hold all cups though--they're better with bottles. I had one on the dash for a while but felt like it got in the way too much. Now I just lie a water bottle between the transmission tunnel and seat rail on the passenger side.

I dunno about the roof lights. More wiring mess, potential for leaks and rust and they just produce glare off the hood.
 

toyrunner95

Explorer
Yeah there is a plastic insert thing at O' Rillies for like 2 bucks. I might hack that up and jam it under the bench.

I have one of those old carr gutter mount bars in my garage for a Cherokee, With a little massaging and some pizzaz I think I can make a decent bar. Also the wiring, if done correctly, does NOT need holes in the body or roof. You just need to be creative. I have run wires down the A pillar along the weather stripping and between the fender and body before, no issues with leaks. OR you can run them down the B pillar and into the cab there through the weather stripping. I would probably just use the zip tie tabs on the back of the cab though and then run under along the frame rail to a fuse block. I will keep you guys posted on what I do. I have ALL SORTS of random stuff in my garage that I might as well use. I have a set of wig wag flashers (sshhhh) that I might put in there for fun.
 

Doc_

Sammich!
I like your plan for this, and I'm looking forward to whatever feet-on-the-floor mods you'll go for.



Yeah there is a plastic insert thing at O' Rillies for like 2 bucks. I might hack that up and jam it under the bench.

I have one of those old carr gutter mount bars in my garage for a Cherokee, With a little massaging and some pizzaz I think I can make a decent bar. Also the wiring, if done correctly, does NOT need holes in the body or roof. You just need to be creative. I have run wires down the A pillar along the weather stripping and between the fender and body before, no issues with leaks. OR you can run them down the B pillar and into the cab there through the weather stripping. I would probably just use the zip tie tabs on the back of the cab though and then run under along the frame rail to a fuse block. I will keep you guys posted on what I do. I have ALL SORTS of random stuff in my garage that I might as well use. I have a set of wig wag flashers (sshhhh) that I might put in there for fun.

What about working the wiring down the A-pillar and into the cowl via the engine compartment? You could basically snake the wires between the fender and cowl, and then pass it through the front brace and bring it back around and into the cab. If you're careful, only the hawk-eyed would see it.

Personally, I'd actually run the wire out the rear bulkhead connector with the tail/stop/signal wiring and bring it up behind the cab. If you're keeping the camper then you could actually run it up on the inside of that, and pass it through a grommet to keep the weather out. It would be a lot cleaner that way, more serviceable and would reduce the risk of a pinch.



...Why? Because Roadkill...
BAM!
 

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