Project WK - My new SRV (Sanity Reset Vehicle)

nwoods

Expedition Leader
@Charles R - You mentioned that you had to roll your rear fenders a lot. Can you post more about that? Maybe some photos? What did you do at the rear door? I am experiencing significant rubbing with the 33" when I flex out the rear. I am working on lengthening the rear bumpstops, but I probably need to trim back the fender too. Is is just like the pinch-weld up front? Here is a shot of my rear fender near the rear door after pounding it back into place on the trail so I could drive home:

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Charles R

Adventurer
It's hard to get decent pics of that area, but I went out and took a few for you. Simply put, I rolled ALL of that lip a full 180 degrees so that if the tire does hit any of that surface, it does not catch the edge. You can see I do rub inside the fender well itself. But because that's not hitting an edge, it's not a big problem. That's the same thought process you need with the fender lips. If it's hitting something flat and smooth, it's fairly livable. If it touches any edge, you have to move that edge away.

All this is an important thing to think of when deciding on the tire and wheel combo. I currently use a 275 wide tire, instead of the more common 285 that's typically used to get to 33". I also don't use aftermarket wheels because I haven't found one with an offset that will not cause more contact issues. (yet.)

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nwoods

Expedition Leader
Wow, great photos and really cleanly done work. I think my efforts with a hammer will more closely resemble something done by Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear :)
 

Charles R

Adventurer
The secret to body work is...
A lot of hits, but not a lot of force. It's also kind of like the rock crawling mantra, "slow as possible, fast as necessary".

It mostly takes time and patience to do any body work well.
 

nomercy346

New member
Always good to see more people building WKs! Digging your build so far!

Rear pinch weld is almost more important than the front cause it can actually cut into your tires. I cut the lip every 1" or so to make it fold easier, doesn't look as nice but I trimmed the plastic piece and put it back on to hide most of the ugliness haha. I only run 265 wide tires an the plastic still rubs a little on full flex, though, so may not work with your setup..
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nwoods

Expedition Leader
Rolled fender mod complete. Was pretty easy to do. I did it in combination with installing extended bumpstops, so hopefully between more clearance in the fender and less up travel, my 33's will fit better.

The sun was a bit closer to earth today, so my phone camera was at its limits trying to get photos. I will shoot more photo once everything is properly dirty and perhaps its cloudy or shaded outside:

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Grassland

Well-known member
Was there any rear control arm and track bar upgrades available for the WK?
And are they even needed with 2" of lift?
I'd also do all the fluid changes for differentials and transfer case with the age and miles unless the shop that rebuilt the motor did it all at same time.

IIRC and as others mentioned 2" or just higher is the sweet spot for lifts without mega $ and the front drop cross member and t case lift. I don't even know if super lift still makes the 4" lift anymore.

Looks good so far.
 

Charles R

Adventurer
Superlift has discontinued their lift kit. People right now are still finding ways to get the various parts within the kit separately, but I'm sure that will end once stock is fully depleted.

There are rear control arms and track bars available. I don't feel any are necessary for a basic 2" lift. There is a slight shift of the axle at ride height that a longer track arm could "fix". But it's minor enough to practically unnoticeable.

If you get rear shocks that allow for significantly more droop than the basic stock option, like the Ford F-150 shock many use with a 4" lift, one of the upper control arms will hit the fuel tank carrier when it droops. There are curved control arms available to avoid that contact.
 

Strobi-1

New member
hey nwoods, your WK is looking good! I'm doing similar work to my WK. I'm replacing all suspension components that could possibly be worn with moog components. I ordered 2" spacers to bring up the front end to make the truck level. I don't really mind the front end being lower then the rear I just figured it would give me a little extra tire room and I'm starting to think that adding the spacers may be a bad idea especially since I decided on moog OEM UCAs. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
I haven't wheeled mine enough yet to get a real feel for how much is too much, but one thing you could do and probably should do is install offset ball joints in your upper a-arms. Part number K100071. I don't have a very good picture of them, but this might give you an idea:

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nwoods

Expedition Leader
Some updates are in order.

1. I scored a set of used AEV Pintler wheels. These have more offset than the JL wheels I was running. Enough so that I was able to remove the spacers in the rear, but I still need spacers in the front. I have 1.5" spacers, but would like to drop down to 1". but for now, the 1.5" work fine and I don't rub too much even when full turn and/or compressed. I still rub a little bit in the rear, but not enough to slice up the tires, so I'm calling it good. I think in the future I might drop down to 32" (275/70/17) tires instead of these 33" (285/70/17's), but there are so many good deals on used 33's that its hard to go down in size.
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2. I replaced the rear portion of the center console (all of the vents were broken by kids feet from previous owner) so the interior is looking nice. Also replaced all the interior door handles. The plastic "shell" of the handle assembly gets very brittle and replacement kits are plentiful and cheap.
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3. I removed the stock exhaust one day just to hear what the 5.7L HEMI sounded like. Dear Lord what a sweet beautiful ruckus that made! I think a Magnaflow or similar cat-back exhaust is in my future. Video (with great audio) here.

4. I started to experience a "transmission overtemp" fault, even when the entire system was stone cold. Would put the tranny into limp mode. Not great. Thanks to some else's sleuthy reading of the wiring diagrams, it seems there are multiple ways the ECU (or PCM - Powertrain Control Module) can obtain tranny temp readings, so cutting the wire for the temp sensor seems to nip that issue in the bud, so to speak. It's been about 6 weeks since I performed the transectomy and no errors or issues ever since.
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5. The cargo space in the WK is pretty small. Much smaller than a WJ (Oh! My son bought another WJ, so now we have both in the driveway). Anyway, to combat the limited space and facilitate canine transportation, I build out a rear cargo shelf and modular rear-seat delete option. In truth, it would be a couple of hours to remove the front portion of the cargo tray to re-install the rear seat, but it can be done, so I guess that counts. Right now, the cargo floor is pretty simple. I plan to develop it further with piano hinges and latches to allow the front portion to flip up and access the space underneath. I am slowly saving up money for a decent stereo (or magnaflow - hmmm....), and intend to put the component amps and signal processors in this under lid storage area. One thing I did that I like a lot is made partitions coming off the center console so the area immediately behind is great for storing quick-grab stuff like my SLR camera, jackets, thermos's, etc...
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6. I bent my rear diff cover on a rock, tried upgrading, but the QDII rear diff is an oddball, and replacement covers are few and far between. So I removed the existing one, bent it back, refinished it, and loaded up on Royal Purple diff oil. Turned out pretty nice, and no leaks!
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7. Popular wisdom on various Jeep forums encourage the use of an oil catch can, so I installed one:
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8. Almost from the moment I brought it home, its had a check engine light on. I had read that these engines are very picky about oil due to the MDS (cylinder deactivation) system. Well, I can confirm. The Previous owner said he used 5W-20, but 7 quarts of MobileOne full synthetic 5W-20 seems to be the right choice and the CEL finally cleared!

That's about it for now. I've mostly just been enjoying it. As an SRV, it's working perfectly:
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nwoods

Expedition Leader
Here are some more details on the rear cargo tray/platform I built. Call this Phase 1. Phase 2 will modify the front portion for underfloor access and some other improvements.

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This forward section is removable with 6 bolts (using the seat bolt and seat retention bolt holes). The rear seat fits just fine with the rear portion of the cargo tray installed. though I probably will not ever install that rear seat again in the foreseeable future.
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Removable centerboard divider (to separate cargo from the doggie area)
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She likes it so far...
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Finished!
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nwoods

Expedition Leader
Phase 2 for the rear cargo area is complete! I cut the front half lid to have a 60/40 split, and cut in piano hinges and then installed cam latches to keep the cargo lids secure. Works pretty good!

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