Propane tank... anyone added a permanently mounted tank underneath? General Questions

[Rezarf <><]

I picked up a VW bus propane tank... about 10 lbs or so. I know the regulator is leaky per the original owner so I am looking at what options I need to replace the leaky one.

Here are a few questions I have after poking around for a bit on the interwebs:

• I need to replace my regulator, is there any reason to add an adjustable regulator? Say 0-20psi. I am only running a Partner Steel stove and a Lantern, maybe a heater to take the edge of before sleeping in the rig. (all are low pressure appliances and can run off 1lb bottles) Not sure the adjust ability is one more failure point or worth it?
• If my tank is horizontal does it require a horizontal regulator?
• I am unsure if standard air fittings are any different than the LPG fittings that seem to cost 10x as much?
• I am looking for a few disconnects, one for the rear bumper, one for the stove connection and a hose that goes between them, have any suggestions at what to buy?
• Has anyone here been down this road and installed a fixed propane tank in a camper/rv/truck/rig? Things to avoid or any must have's?

Thanks in advance-

 

[Flhtruss]

Hello rezarf
Try this link and give em a call I sure they can answer most of your questions.
http://www.mantank.com/products/rv-propane-containers-accessories/

I've seen hoses for lp on Amazon , and I'm sure if you contact a local hose company they can custom make what you need.
Please don't try be cheap on connectors and anything related to LP it's not worth it!

Russ

 

[Rezarf <><]

Hello rezarf
Try this link and give em a call I sure they can answer most of your questions.
http://www.mantank.com/products/rv-propane-containers-accessories/

I've seen hoses for lp on Amazon , and I'm sure if you contact a local hose company they can custom make what you need.
Please don't try be cheap on connectors and anything related to LP it's not worth it!

Russ

Russ, thanks for the link. I will give it a go.

I am not trying to be cheap, just not scammed into a high price for a fitting that does the same thing. If someone can show me how a propane quick disconnect differs from a pneumatic quick disconnect and has "this and that" that provide a safety factor than I am all in. However, I don't care to pay more for something because I was ignorant. My initial thinking is air is air... when I find out if there's a difference than of course I'll pay the extra to be safe.

 

[robert]

I've done a few on VWs. Take it to your local Hank Hill propane and propane accessories dealer and have them insect it and install a new regulator for you. They'll pull the old regulator, scope the tank for any issues i.e. rust from condensation, and install a new certified regulator for you. It shouldn't cost much but if you have to take it to an RV dealer they will charge more. You need to use gas lines and gas fittings with flared fittings.

Start at page 60 and enjoy- everything you did and did not want to know about installing propane on your RV:
http://code3rv.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Book-5-Propane-Systems-small.pdf

 

[Flhtruss]

Hello Robert
Good read lots of info, i would venture to bet that you'd get a better job at the local propane dealer than the RV shop.

Russ

 

[robert]

I don't know if it's better but you know anything with marine or RV in the name is going to be more expensive. When I was messing with VWs the fellow who ran the propane place near me had grown up with a VW bus in his family so he was always interested in what I was doing, I'm sure that helped.

 

[Rezarf <><]

I've done a few on VWs. Take it to your local Hank Hill propane and propane accessories dealer and have them insect it and install a new regulator for you. They'll pull the old regulator, scope the tank for any issues i.e. rust from condensation, and install a new certified regulator for you. It shouldn't cost much but if you have to take it to an RV dealer they will charge more. You need to use gas lines and gas fittings with flared fittings.

Start at page 60 and enjoy- everything you did and did not want to know about installing propane on your RV:
http://code3rv.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Book-5-Propane-Systems-small.pdf

That's good info thanks!

McMaster specifies certain QD fittings as LPG/Natural gas certified... good enough for me. Something about an internal valve as a fail safe in the event of a hose separation preventing a fire from spreading.

 

[robert]

Besides using proper fittings and checking them periodically, make sure that you use vibration dampeners along the runs (you don't want anything flopping around and you want to reduce vibration in any hard lines) and protect the hose/line anywhere it may rub. Obviously the fewer connections you can use the better.

 

[Rezarf <><]

Besides using proper fittings and checking them periodically, make sure that you use vibration dampeners along the runs (you don't want anything flopping around and you want to reduce vibration in any hard lines) and protect the hose/line anywhere it may rub. Obviously the fewer connections you can use the better.

Yes, I am going to use sheathed soft lines mounted to the frame and chassis. Should only be about 6" of "flexible" line at each end. Thanks!

 

[Stumpalump]

Old VW tank with air fittings run all over the vehicle sounds like you might be pushing it. What's the certification date on the tank? https://www.hunker.com/13408883/how-to-tell-if-a-propane-tank-has-been-requalified

 

[danfromsyr]

who da heck is HUNKER?

frame mounted horizontal "RV" propane tanks do NOT require a re certification.
though they do need to be in good rust free condition.. surface rust matters little, it's a blistered/missing ID tag that is a replacement requirement.
http://www.propanetankstore.com/dot-asme-tank-differences/

all the screw in parts are serviceable and available.

DOT & ASME Propane Tank Differences
How do I know wheither to buy a DOT tank or an ASME tank?

Here are the basic differences. You decide which best serves your intented use.

ASME Tanks

No Recertification Period
Thicker Steel
Heavier than a DOT Tank of the same capacity
Designed for Stationary Installation. Not Designed to be moved when full
Design & Standards Governed by American Society of Engineers. (ASME)
DOT Tanks

Recertification Period are 12 Years after Manufactduring, then every 5 Years
Designed for Portable Applications
Design & Standards Governed by Department of Transporation (DOT)

 

[Rezarf <><]

Old VW tank with air fittings run all over the vehicle sounds like you might be pushing it. What's the certification date on the tank? https://www.hunker.com/13408883/how-to-tell-if-a-propane-tank-has-been-requalified

Several shops have now said there is no need for certification on permanent installations. My tank has no date stamped into it. I have had 3 shops confirm this as I didn't want to start buying parts only to have people reject me when I wanted to fill it up. YMMV but that is what I am hearing in Denver.

 

[Rezarf <><]

who da heck is HUNKER?

frame mounted horizontal "RV" propane tanks do NOT require a re certification.
though they do need to be in good rust free condition.. surface rust matters little, it's a blistered/missing ID tag that is a replacement requirement.
http://www.propanetankstore.com/dot-asme-tank-differences/

all the screw in parts are serviceable and available.

This.

 

[java]

If its an ASME tank (permanent mounted RV tank should be) there is no re certification needed.

No need for adjustable regulator.

If you do use ari fittings I would make sure they are good quality ones that wont leak, and turn the tank off any times its not being used. A low pressure system will only run ~.5psi or so.

 

[arctic04trd]

I picked up a VW bus propane tank... about 10 lbs or so. I know the regulator is leaky per the original owner so I am looking at what options I need to replace the leaky one.

Here are a few questions I have after poking around for a bit on the interwebs:

• I need to replace my regulator, is there any reason to add an adjustable regulator? Say 0-20psi. I am only running a Partner Steel stove and a Lantern, maybe a heater to take the edge of before sleeping in the rig. (all are low pressure appliances and can run off 1lb bottles) Not sure the adjust ability is one more failure point or worth it?
• If my tank is horizontal does it require a horizontal regulator?
• I am unsure if standard air fittings are any different than the LPG fittings that seem to cost 10x as much?
• I am looking for a few disconnects, one for the rear bumper, one for the stove connection and a hose that goes between them, have any suggestions at what to buy?
• Has anyone here been down this road and installed a fixed propane tank in a camper/rv/truck/rig? Things to avoid or any must have's?

Thanks in advance-

First off, no to the adjustability. Propane fixtures all run on 11" w.c. pressure. No need for adjusting up or down unless you want to fine tune your burner gas usage to perfect. Which isn't needed at all. You will probably burn say 19,940 BTUs in a 20,000 btu fixture, for example.

Second, yes to propane fittings. Non rated fittings use different rubber compounds in the seals. The propane can eat at the seals causing premature wear. The seals in a propane quick connect are designed for natural gas, propane etc. The gas will not corrode the rubber.

Also, "air is air" statement is false. It's a gas, not the air we breathe. Different components react differently with compounds. Propane is a carbon hydrogen mixture. It's not O2 with 80% nitrogen. Not even close.

A regulator has nothing to do with the tank. Get a regulator that works in the orientation you are putting it (horizontal vs vertical).

Hope this helps.