Propane Tanks: Minimum Distance from Furnace/Boiler?

[ReluctantTraveler]

If you use propane for your heat/hot water, is there a minimum recommended distance to keep the tanks from the furnace/boiler/etc?

All of my Googling turns up guidelines around homes with large buried or external tanks, which doesn't really apply here.

 

[Kevin108]

It is always good to consider these things, but you truly don't have much to worry about. On an outdoor grill, it sits just inches below the flame. On a camp stove...



Short of placing the tank directly in fire, you're probably fine.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

It is always good to consider these things, but you truly don't have much to worry about. On an outdoor grill, it sits just inches below the flame. On a camp stove...

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Short of placing the tank directly in fire, you're probably fine.

That's a good point!

I'll obviously be using a regulator, appropriate hoses and fittings, storing the propane tanks in a vented area, CO2 and propane alarms, etc.

I'm most worried about the safety aspects in a DIY rig, though after seeing how poorly my Forest River travel trailer was built, maybe I should be more worried about that than anything I'd build myself ???

 

[NOPEC]

That's a good point!

I'll obviously be using a regulator, appropriate hoses and fittings, storing the propane tanks in a vented area, CO2 and propane alarms, etc.

I'm most worried about the safety aspects in a DIY rig, though after seeing how poorly my Forest River travel trailer was built, maybe I should be more worried about that than anything I'd build myself ???

I realize that you most likely know all of this but I think the key to safety is having the tank well tethered in a dedicated locker (airtight to the interior living space if the locker is within that space) with access from the top (assuming standard vertical tank). Ensure the recommended diameter (and location) of venting to the outside is installed.

I know some DIY van builders are venting the pressure relief valve on the tank directly to the outside as well. I don't know if that is overkill and redundant but it can't hurt.

The reality is that you are going to have to have a tremendous amount of heat contacting the tank, direct or otherwise, before it will ever be an issue. As Kevin108 points out, summer patio Budweiser fueled barbeque experts are probably the worst abusers of propane tanks. The strict regulations found in the propane industry probably goes a long way in keeping the mortality rate down among this unique backyard species.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

airtight to the interior living space if the locker is within that space

I'll be doing a DIY plywood/foamboard build, and I'm still working through this part, but it is very much on my todo list. Thanks for calling it out!

My current plan is to box out the locker where the tanks will go, and caulk and epoxy the inside to seal them in. Hadn't planned to glass them, but could do that, too.

 

[Pntyrmvr]

2 stage regulator with a cover. Use copper lines other than for the cylinder to regulator connector if using DOT tank.

No connections inside the living area.

Use forged not cast brass fittings.

Flare your lines not compression fittings.

A few others, but that the essence of it.

CO and C³H⁸ detector mounted low in living space as noted above C³H⁸ is heavier than air. Vacuum the dust out of detector regularly.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Use copper lines other than for the cylinder to regulator connector if using DOT tank.

No connections inside the living area.

I'd have assumed flexible lines would be better for a camper that's going to be subject to lots of road vibration, for the same reason you generally favor PEX over copper water lines.

I'm curious how you'd recommend routing the gas to keep the line entirely out of the living space with a Propex or Truma type forced air heater or a propane tank water heater?

I absolutely planned to seal off the propane tanks from the main living area, but at some point the lines need to enter that space to feed the appliances that use it.

Or are you suggesting that those stay completely isolated, too, with just the ducted air or heater water lines running into the living space?

 

[NOPEC]

I'd have assumed flexible lines would be better for a camper that's going to be subject to lots of road vibration, for the same reason you generally favor PEX over copper water lines.

I'm curious how you'd recommend routing the gas to keep the line entirely out of the living space with a Propex or Truma type forced air heater or a propane tank water heater?

I absolutely planned to seal off the propane tanks from the main livingrarea, but at some point the lines need to enter that space to feed the appliances that use it.

Or are you suggesting that those stay completely isolated, too, with just the ducted air or heater water lines running into the living space?

Copper designed to be used in gas lines is heavier than regular household waterline copper and when proper gas line copper is bent and installed correctly, it will last the life of the project. Because of the thicker walls, It is a little bit harder to work with than it's thinner water line cousin but when it is tethered along its run to a wall or other solid surface with a purpose designed rubber lined clamp, it is bomber and it is highly unlikely that it will suffer any ill effects from vibration.

I agree with Pntyrmvr on both using copper over hose and using proper flared joints as opposed to compression fittings.

As far as "no connections inside the living area", I think Pnyrmvr may have been referring to doing connections (for example with a "T") within the living space for the purpose of running branches to service more than one appliance from a single gas line. The code (at least in these parts anyway) is that each appliance should have its own dedicated gas line, each of which starts at the manifold (assuming more than one appliance) that is enclosed within the sealed (or isolated) tank locker. Following this rule, the only actual connection within the living space will then be to the actual appliance.

Buy a good quality flaring tool and start practicing. When you consistently get 9/10 keepers, you are pretty much there!!

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Copper designed to be used in gas lines is heavier than regular household waterline copper and when proper gas line copper is bent and installed correctly, it will last the life of the project. Because of the thicker walls, It is a little bit harder to work with than it's thinner water line cousin but when it is tethered along its run to a wall or other solid surface with a purpose designed rubber lined clamp, it is bomber and it is highly unlikely that it will suffer any ill effects from vibration.

I agree with Pntyrmvr on both using copper over hose and using proper flared joints as opposed to compression fittings.

As far as "no connections inside the living area", I think Pnyrmvr may have been referring to doing connections (for example with a "T") within the living space for the purpose of running branches to service more than one appliance from a single gas line. The code (at least in these parts anyway) is that each appliance should have its own dedicated gas line, each of which starts at the manifold (assuming more than one appliance) that is enclosed within the sealed (or isolated) tank locker. Following this rule, the only actual connection within the living space will then be to the actual appliance.

Buy a good quality flaring tool and start practicing. When you consistently get 9/10 keepers, you are pretty much there!!

Thanks for all of this! My plan is to also keep the propane tanks and appliances very close to each other to minimize runs.

Forgive my ignorance here, but what's the benefit of copper lines over the heavy duty rubber alternative (which is what's used in our current travel trailer from Forest River)?