Propex HS2000

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Having some Propex HS2000 issues. My research has found these are a solid furnace. Of course Murphys law mine is throwing the sigle flashing light code. It fires up and cycles on and off for several hours then shuts down usually by morning with red light code. It happens out side in 28 degree temps and in well ventilated garage at 45 degree tems. Propex will make you spend weeks troubleshooting before they will let you send it in for repair. Then who knows how long to get it back. They are so quick to blame all issues on install. Seems wierd as they market to DIYers.

 

[NOPEC]

Are you talking to the folks in Britain or here in NA?

So far, I have been very impressed with the customer service at the manufacturer overseas.

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Well both. Long story but I think a made the UK guy mad so I might be on my own.

Have you had any of these kind of issues?

 

[NOPEC]

Well both. Long story but I think a made the UK guy mad so I might be on my own.

Have you had any of these kind of issues?

No, touch wood, nothing like you describe with my own heater, same model as yours. I did initially have a code issue with my HWHeater but it was my doing and they (the UK guys) were patient with me and it got sorted. Good luck with yours. Funny, anything I have read about your "Westy" guys always seems impressive to me.

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Thx not sure what you mean by westy guys

 

[NOPEC]

Thx not sure what you mean by westy guys

Sorry, "GoWesty" the Westphalia outfitters in Cal., is what I meant. They seem to be one of the long time US Propex dealers and I have read some of their helpful DIY installer support over the last few years.

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Thank you

 

[DFNDER]

Look for a leak somewhere in the line. Mine had a small leak outside on one of the connections and it was enough to throw an error after working for a little while. Soap and water found it. Could be something else of course, but worth a check.

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Thanks defender. I feel confident that my propane/c0 detector would go of if the gas line inside the camper leaked. There is a small section in tounge box. I will check that

 

[NOPEC]

Thanks defender. I feel confident that my propane/c0 detector would go of if the gas line inside the camper leaked. There is a small section in tounge box. I will check that

As anyone who has installed a Propex furnace knows, the continuity of the "from the factory" predetermined lengths of air intake and exhaust pipe are critical to correct operation. Any deviation from the factory lengths is going to be an issue.

In my opinion, once gas line integrity is eliminated as an issue, then the only thing that the end user can check is if something is amiss with one of the intake/exhaust pipes. I am guessing that it is highly unlikely (and you have already checked) that there is a bad connection, corrosion, etc., with the plug and play connectors and that all connections to the fuse block and ground are all sound.

I'll just shotgun what I would do. Check to see if there any riffraff taking up (and/or building) residence near the ends in either of the pipes. Hornets, Mud daubers, small mice or voles (potentially stuck and dead), etc.? Is there any way one of the lines could have been damaged along it's length during installation for example like over bending causing a defect in the line, a misdriven screw placed after or during the build, abrasion, etc.? Did either of the pipes (especially the softer walled air intake pipe) get flatten somewhere during or after installation? Of course, the fitting of both pipes at the heater body have to be absolutely bombproof. Anywhere along the length of these two pipes where there is either too much to too little flow of either exhaust or fresh air and you are going see a code.

Just some thoughts

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Nopec I really appreciate your time on this! So I am learning tons about how critical the intake and exhaust setup is on these units. Mostly from you and a very awesome and knowledgeable Propex dealer. My trailer is brand new and my issue started with a blown fuse. Once I replaced that my current issue started. I inspected the current intake and exhaust lines and did not see any. I even blew thru the ends and air was flowing freely. The exhaust line was a bit short of 4 feet. So I ordered two stainless lines with heavy duty stainless clamps. The idea of the intake line being what appears to be cardboard running under an off road trailer seem suspect. I am going to run these lines parallel to the driver's side and separate the ends a bit so not to have them be to close. I also purchased the high altitude end cap for the intake. Then up pressure to 14-15 water collum and double check this pressure setting on regulator. Hoping this solves my error code.

 

[NOPEC]

So,
Interesting about the short. Was it when you first fired up the stove or was it in the system somewhere else? Is there a possibility that you have accidently compromised or damaged the thermostat wiring(thus the short)? As well and no doubt you knew this, but it was extremely important to ensure that the thermostat and the heater were connected, before firing it up for the first time.

From the factory, the stainless corrugated exhaust line should be 22 mm in diameter and 1 meter long. The air intake line I have is 22 mm in diameter and also 1 meter long and is made of a corrugated plastic, something like a dishwasher drain or shop vac hose. Not the toughest stuff in the world but I would have though it would have been OK in a well secured run under your trailer. Any deviation (L and D) from these specs are going to cause problems. I know that the 60 mm hot air corrugated pipe is a bit funky with a paper/cardboard like exterior over a flexible aluminum core but I didn't see any cardboard in the smaller combustion pipes.

Does the intake endcap have the Propex stamp of approval? As far as the WC goes, I haven't had any issue using the North American standard 11", as I didn't have the adjustable regulator. That being said, I am gearing up for a new build and I will be using an outside install (HS2211) and I will utilize an adjustable low pressure regulator....

 

[Louisd75]

@Obsessed2findARuggedHybid I'm jumping in a little late but wanted to pass on that I had a similar issue that was caused by the pressure coming out of the regulator being too low. I bumped it up a little bit and that squared it away. Sorry, I don't remember what it was originally at or what I bumped it up to so you'll likely have to do a little trial and error.

Regarding the intake/exhaust tubes, I'm not quite sure that is as critical as Propex maintains. I know that there are quite a few HS2000's out there with a muffler and additional exhaust tubing installed after the muffler. I believe that @Teardropper is running a muffler but I don't recall if he changed the length of the stock exhaust tube in the process.

 

[Teardropper]

I believe that @Teardropper is running a muffler but I don't recall if he changed the length of the stock exhaust tube in the process.

I attach the muffler on mine to the unmodified exhaust pipe. No issues.

Tony

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

From what I have been told it's best not to cut the 48 " shorter. Isn't adding a muffler adding length?