Overland Hadley
on a journey
:lurk:
Pugsly's FG rebuild thread
- Thread starter pugslyyy
- Start date
:lurk:
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I've been quietly working on a number of issues with the antennas/radios/electronics in the cab. I'll have photos of that work soon but am still waiting for a few parts and the cab looks like a bomb went off in it right now. 
On to more serious mods - my new wheels arrived. I've put the front ones on but not the rear yet. The current wheels were put on fairly recently by a truck tire store using one of their huge impact wrenches, and I am having to use about 8 feet of lever to get the bolts to move. Even with that massive leverage it takes all I've got to get them to budge. So I got the front done and saved the rear for tomorrow.
These photos give you an idea of the size difference.
I currently have room for 7" of suspension flex (which is right at the Fuso spec for rear axle bounce height). Once I get the rear wheels on I'll measure again and figure out what modifications I need to make to the service body to retain the requisite 7 inches.
On to more serious mods - my new wheels arrived. I've put the front ones on but not the rear yet. The current wheels were put on fairly recently by a truck tire store using one of their huge impact wrenches, and I am having to use about 8 feet of lever to get the bolts to move. Even with that massive leverage it takes all I've got to get them to budge. So I got the front done and saved the rear for tomorrow.
These photos give you an idea of the size difference.
I currently have room for 7" of suspension flex (which is right at the Fuso spec for rear axle bounce height). Once I get the rear wheels on I'll measure again and figure out what modifications I need to make to the service body to retain the requisite 7 inches.
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
Just did my wheels with the same results. Front right wheel was lube-torqued as per the manual, and it came off with no problems. The other 3 corners took as Kerry describes the tire shop's Big Bertha (1.5" spline drive is pretty impressive) to bust 'em loose. Of course the tire shop (a great place, techs are happy to do 'strange' wheels etc) guys looked at my torque wrench when I brought it out to 'compare' with their reading, like cavemen to a cigarette lighter, O-fire, or in this case O-big wrench. They could not believe how hard the nuts were to get off, but they were more then ready to put them back on using 'Big Bertha'. Even just running them down for me to do the final torque with my wrench, some nuts were well into the 600 ft lb range! And that was run-down, not them hammering for final torque. After a 500 mile trip, only 3 of the 24 moved a little on the re-torque check (lube torqued as per Fuso manual to 400 ft-lbs).
Yup Super Singles are the way to go.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I have no idea, the DRW tires were put on by the PO - my experience is the opposite though, they just rattle it on with that big 1" gun. Also, why lube the threads when the manual says expressly not to?
engineer
Adventurer
If you have ever had them break when you try to get them off, or worse still, not be able to get them off without rapid oxidiation assistance, then you lubricated the thread so you can, but you have to check them regularly. I think i was one of few that checked them daily. the guys on Fraser were good when Ron was there, because one company checked them daily, everyone started doing it.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I've been thinking about buying the wheel nut indicators and putting those on.
The Fuso manual says not to put grease on the threads. Alcoa recommends motor oil on the threads for both hub piloted and ball seat lug nuts but NO oil on the seat area. It's all right here : http://www.alcoa.com/alcoawheels/catalog/pdf/ServiceManual-English.pdf
westyss
Explorer
Definately not the case in the area I live in, even the Mitsu truck dealer here was going to torque the bolts to above 500ft/lb's, now whenever I go to a tire shop I stand above the guy and specify to use a torque wrench and show them the numbers in the manual...360ft/lb's, my truck also had never sieze on the threads when new but not on the chamfers of the bolts.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
No luck getting the rears off this morning. Soaked everything in PB Blaster and had to go get a 16" 3/4 inch drive extension to get my cheater bar to clear the service body. Getting ready to do battle again!
SkiFreak
Crazy Person
That is what I have done. At about a buck each, it is a small price to pay to get a visual indication of the wheel nut position.
I use a cheapie eBay torque multiplier (which has been totally disassembled and repacked with molybond grease) to get the nuts loose and a 4 foot long Precision Instruments torque wrench for doing them up.
I put some lube on the threads and wipe the chamfers with solvent before tightening up the nuts. Because there is lube on the threads, I set the torque wrench to 460NM, which is at the lower end of the torque specification (490Nm +/- 50Nm for my FG84) to compensate for the reduced friction.
You can always tighten a nut back up (or replace a lost one), but replacing a snapped stud can be a costly and time consuming task, and not something that is easily done in the bush.
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
I go by the theory that having to using an 8 foot breaker bar or a 'Big Bertha' impact gun is about the worse thing these wheel nuts and stubs need (other then being run loose). Or perhaps even worse is being 100 miles past nowhere and needing to get my wheel off with no 'Big Bertha' and a 200 cfm compressor or an 8 foot bar and two big Swedes on steroids.
Now I know in the FG manual they are installed 'dry', but in the FH manual they are installed 'wet' using wheel bearing or axle grease (no moly). It is not like the FH has some super magical studs and nuts.
The only down side of lubed studs and nuts is they will loosen easier - O wait, that is a plus !
Yes perhaps they will loosen up, so dry studs/nuts (aka: rust locked) may be good for the operator who is going to get his wheels installed and spend the next 40,000 miles thinking about getting his boxes delivered, streets plow, gravel dumped, and not wondering if his lugnuts are tight.
Me, I bought a big a** torque wrench, and I am prepared to use it. Also once they are pass two torque re-checks, they will get torque stripped for easy visual checking. So no down side for me.
I go with 400 ft-lbs (or should I say 350-400, since my torque wrench is a two person job, one 'torquing' and one reading the dial indicator). It is on the higher end of the manual's range of 324 to 396 ft-lbs for my truck, but because they are lubed I like that better.(FH's lubed torque is 370-410 ft-lbs)
Now I know in the FG manual they are installed 'dry', but in the FH manual they are installed 'wet' using wheel bearing or axle grease (no moly). It is not like the FH has some super magical studs and nuts.
The only down side of lubed studs and nuts is they will loosen easier - O wait, that is a plus !
Yes perhaps they will loosen up, so dry studs/nuts (aka: rust locked) may be good for the operator who is going to get his wheels installed and spend the next 40,000 miles thinking about getting his boxes delivered, streets plow, gravel dumped, and not wondering if his lugnuts are tight.
Me, I bought a big a** torque wrench, and I am prepared to use it. Also once they are pass two torque re-checks, they will get torque stripped for easy visual checking. So no down side for me.
I go with 400 ft-lbs (or should I say 350-400, since my torque wrench is a two person job, one 'torquing' and one reading the dial indicator). It is on the higher end of the manual's range of 324 to 396 ft-lbs for my truck, but because they are lubed I like that better.(FH's lubed torque is 370-410 ft-lbs)
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Wow, I have read about the FG lug nuts being a pain to get off, but I had no idea it was this big of a deal.
Maybe I should pre buy a big breaker bar for my dream FG, at least I could afford to get that part of the build at this point. :ylsmoke: Got to start somewhere.
Maybe I should pre buy a big breaker bar for my dream FG, at least I could afford to get that part of the build at this point. :ylsmoke: Got to start somewhere.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
It better be a big damn breaker bar. This is what I was using, later with a crowbar in the open end to get an extra 2 feet of leverage. Was enough to break the lugs holding the outer wheel but not enough for the inner wheel... Still trying to figure that one out.
...and not that it matters a whole lot, but the 36" ratchet in the picture was just rebuilt by me (not a single use harbor freight item), $350 of Snap-On goodness...