Pulsing/wobbling brakes: Pads? Rotors?

[Hawairish]

Found this online:
.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcSHy4qmFb0
.
Says it's for a 1999 - am I right in assuming that this information should still apply to my 2002? Particularly since mine has the conventional part-time 4wd?

Yep, it still applies to yours.

As noted, you will need a way to push the piston back into the caliper to fit the new pads on. This works fine: http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-piston-compressor-68973.html. You'd only need to bleed the brakes if you open the lines, or if it feels spongy in general.

Changing bearing optional, but as suggested, may as well if your maintenance schedule warrants it. It's a good time to re-grease them, too. Now is also a great time to change any worn lug studs, since they—like the rotor—can't be installed when the hub is on the truck.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Yep, it still applies to yours.

As noted, you will need a way to push the piston back into the caliper to fit the new pads on. This works fine: http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-piston-compressor-68973.html. You'd only need to bleed the brakes if you open the lines, or if it feels spongy in general.

Changing bearing optional, but as suggested, may as well if your maintenance schedule warrants it. It's a good time to re-grease them, too. Now is also a great time to change any worn lug studs, since they—like the rotor—can't be installed when the hub is on the truck.

.
The video I linked to showed what I thought was a pretty brilliant way to push the pistons back in: Just use a common woodworking clamp (I do some wood work so I have lots of those!)
.
Since I'm asking dumb questions let me continue. :sombrero: If I buy disc rotors from a local shop (O'reilly, Advance, Auto Zone, etc), is there a Core charge that I can get back if I bring my old ones in? Or are they just trash? If they're just trash, what do you do with an old brake disc?
.
I guess it would make a good weight or something or else a really BIG coaster.
.
Are brake pads still made of asbestos? Should I wear a mask while changing them?

 

[Burb One]

That's what I use! A C clamp and the old brake pads to spread the force (You don't want to ruin the piston or compress them unevenly.)

No core charges on rotors. Stacks of mine sit in the corner, slowly rusting away.

I've never worn a mask while changing them, you aren't kicking up much dust so I wouldn't worry about it. I don't think new ones used asbestos.

 

[Chili]

Others have already covered it, but yeah, pads and rotors are really easy.. C clamp to compress the piston. After assembly hose everything down with brake cleaner to get any oils or whatnot off.

Make sure you bed your brakes properly!! Cannot stress this enough and it is something that too many people miss.

An older vehicle like that I would probably go ahead and bleed the brakes down to get rid of the old fluid since it probably hasn't been done before. May even consider swapping the rubber brakes lines in front to braided ss. You will likely feel a great improvement over the old lined (firmer response with new fluid and no rubber lines).

The only 'special' tool you should need is if you swap the lines, and in that case you will want a flare nut wrench.. But you can usually get a smal lset of 3-5 with what you need.

 

[dwh]

New rotor, new bearings. Pounding the old bearing races out of the old rotor and pounding them into the new rotor is just asking for either an out of round race, or a spun race, either of which is no good.

You don't actually need the double cone bearing grease tool. Dollop a tablespoon of the grease into your palm and just smoosh the edge of the bearing down into it. Keep doing that until the grease comes out the top. Turn it and do it again. Rinse and repeat until you've forced grease into the bearing all the way around.

If I touch brakes, I bleed them. Brake fluid is disposable crap that absorbs the water that condenses inside the system as it heats and cools. This causes the entire brake system to rust and corrode.

Some systems with proportioning valves require a special tool to hold the valve in the full open position during bleeding. Find out if your truck needs it.

 

[calicamper]

Build up on the rotor via heat baked etc. Tie rods older car can add to the wobble. Could also be a combo package.

 

[dwh]

Build up on the rotor via heat baked etc. Tie rods older car can add to the wobble. Could also be a combo package.

Could also be out of balance wheels.

 

[calicamper]

Could also be out of balance wheels.

Yup

 

[Martinjmpr]

Could also be out of balance wheels.

But if they were out of balance wouldn't they wobble all the time vs. just when I'm braking?

 

[Burb One]

But if they were out of balance wouldn't they wobble all the time vs. just when I'm braking?

It could be. If only under braking I do rotors first. If it was happening at a certain speed not under braking then I'd say do balance first, then start looking at suspension components, bearings etc. As other said

 

[Martinjmpr]

It could be. If only under braking I do rotors first. If it was happening at a certain speed not under braking then I'd say do balance first, then start looking at suspension components, bearings etc. As other said

.
Yeah, that's pretty much my take on it. Wobbling at a certain specific speed generally tells me it's an out of balance wheel. Wobbling only when braking tells me it's the brakes.

 

[Burb One]

If it doesn't go away with replacing rotors, it could be something like a bearing as well when the caliper squeezes it can torque a bad wheel bearing and cause vibration.

 

[Hawairish]

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they've got a cheap dial indicator and magnetic base for doing a quick check of runout. I agree with geronracing about checking the rotors. If it was anything like my buddy's, it was pretty violent shaking only during hard braking.

 

[Martinjmpr]

So I've decided to do the brakes this weekend, time and weather permitting. Any recommendations on pads/rotors? Are the expensive, high-zoot ceramic pads worth the extra $$? Keep in mind this is a DD so it will see lots of stop-and-go city and suburban traffic. Any brands recommended to use or recommended to avoid?

 

[calicamper]

I revert to oem especially if I'm having issues. It helps eliminate parts that might be contributing to a problem.