Question on Leaky Dana 44 Wheel Seals

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
Hi,

Any experts on a short Dana 44 axle?

Vehicle is a 1997 Jeep Wrangler with a Dana 44 conversion.
My stepfather put this axle on when he added an ARB rear locker.
He bought the entire axle with HD shafts assembled and ready to bolt on as an upgrade from the stock axle. It arrived on a palete and he had a local mechanic install it along with new gears.

So this was done one year and 685 miles ago. He had big plans for the Jeep, hence the upgrades, but health issues prevented him from using it much, hence the 685 miles in one year.

Below are pictures of the diff for identification and pictures of both wheels from the inside. Notice the leaking gear oil on the back of both brake drum units.

I had it parked in a parking spot today with a slight angle to the passenger side. When approaching the vehicle I noticed fluid that had dripped from the hub down the back of the brake drum and down the tire.

I checked the brake flid level and its fine, that was my first thought. Then upon further inspection, feeling and touching I determined it to be gear oil.

I have not checked the fluid level in the diff yet but I have now noticed that there are signs of gear oil leaking on the back of both driver and passenger side rear wheels.

Do these normally laek a bit or is it possible that both rear wheel seals are leaking and or blown?

IMG_1946.JPG


IMG_1948.jpg


IMG_1949.jpg


If the seals are bad, what is the easiest and fastest way to change them?

Regards,
Brian
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
Also,
At first I was thinking that the local mechanic would have never touched the seals since the axle arrived assebled but now I am realizing that if he installed the new gears he would have had to back the axle shafts out and could have fouled the seals. Is this possible?

The work was done July 10 of 2009, just over a year ago and not even 700 miles of use.

Regards,
Brian
 

YJake

Adventurer
Also,
At first I was thinking that the local mechanic would have never touched the seals since the axle arrived assebled but now I am realizing that if he installed the new gears he would have had to back the axle shafts out and could have fouled the seals. Is this possible?

Regards,
Brian

This is verry possible, but have you changed the fluid lately? Did this leak suddenly occur after you had done something or has it been leaking fluid since the get go?

I ask because lots of seals that start with dino oil in them later leak when you add synthetic lube later on during regular service. I know that my 146k D35 started to leak SLIGHTLY on the passenger's side axle seal just like you're describing but not enough to even cause a drip after switching to synthetic lube.

Just an idea :)

-Jake
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
Brian, I am not 100% sure how the bearings are retained on the drum brake D44's, but I *think* it is the same as the disk brake D44 was on my TJ. If so, then removing the axle shafts is unlikely to damage the seals. When you pull the shafts, you get the shaft/seal/bearing/bearing retainer all as one unit.

If you decide to replace the seals, be aware that you will need to buy a new bearing retaining ring (you shouldn't re-use them). Of course, the only way to get a new retaining ring is to buy a new bearing ($45). You will need a press to do the job.
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
Well so far me and the guy at NAPA determined that although the axle was a new crate that via the stamp on the diff cover the axle was made in August of 1992.

The guy at NAPA needed to know this in order to give me the correct wheel seals.

Per the NAPA guy:
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove diff cover
3. Remove C-clip on the pin retaining the inside end fo the axle shaft
4. Remove the pin
5. Pull the axle shaft out
6. Pull the wheel seal out
7. Install the new wheel seal by pushing it back into place
8. Re-install the axle shaft taking care not ot fold the rubber gaskets within the new wheel seal.

No mention of retaining rings or bearings.

I need a how-to video!
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks JakeMate

Do you guys think it will be necessary to replace the bearings as well?
If the seal is the only bad part then I'd like to just replace that however I'm not convinced the bearings can be preserved properly if they are used to help get the seal out.
 

wADVr

Adventurer
A few things to consider...

When the ARB is engaged does the compressor cycle as to indicate a leak? if so and the vent is plugged the air/oil has to go somewhere.

When the ARB was installed were the drain back slots cut into the housing? This proceedure is mandatory or the axle tubes can and will fill up with oil and...leak.


As for changing the axle seals alone the list goes likie this:

1) remove wheel.
2) remove the brake drum
3) unbolt the shaft retainer plate using a socket w/ extention through the access hole in the wheel mounting flange.
4*) pull the shaft out(probably going to be a PITA the 1st time around)
*if you have the drainback problem you will get a bath
5) unless you have a press take the saft to a shop and have them press the old bearing seal and colar off and replace with new.
6) reinstall

The diff cover does not have to be removed as the D44 is not a C clip axle such as most D35s, ford 8.8 etc.

I would however recommend you check the ARB install out and make sure its all good, tight, no leaks. I would be supprised if the leaks are not related to the ARB install...
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks,
I'm pretty sure the axle arrived with the ARB already installed.
I can't remember where he ordered it from.

The local mechanic installed the new gears into the axle and then installed the axle onto the jeep.

I hope you're right on the D44 not having c-clips on the shafts, that would make thinkgs a lot easier even if to just open it up and see what's going on near the seal.
 

97tjguzzy

Explorer
seems odd that a TJ 44 would have been made in 92... cherokees came with 44s but that was in the late 80s. I would bet that this is a later model wrangler axle that was swapped in and perhaps that cover is swapped from another axle. It should not be clip and you will need new bearings which come with retainer rings, in order to replace the seals.

My guess is that whoever was in the axle last didnt take care when they bolted the shafts back in and bent the seal when tightening the bolts.
 

Eric06Rubi

Observer
the bearings & seals are pressed onto the axle shafts. fairily easy fix if you have a press. if you dont have the tools any auto machine shop/ or mechanic should be able to get you fixed up.keep in mind if its been driven with leaky seals the rear shoes will need to be replaced due to oil contamination.

and replace the bearings also, no need to do it again next week
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
Ok

Here is a picture of the numbers on the axle for futher ID.

I must admit I am getting a bit confused as some state the seal and bearings are pressed on to the shaft and others state that they are in the axle housing.

I guess I won't know till I open it up since there are different designs for different years.

So,
Can anyone accurately identify the year of this axle using the images below?
IMG_1954.JPG


IMG_1953.jpg
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
My guess is that whoever was in the axle last didnt take care when they bolted the shafts back in and bent the seal when tightening the bolts.

This is my concern with having the same guy make the fix.
I spoke with him yesterday and he seemed unsurprized and just commented on how much my dad liked to "do all sorts of crazy stuff" with that jeep and "find the biggest mud hole and play in it". All a bit of exageration in my opinion, he had a lot of aspirations for the jeep and would often talk about what he wanted to do with it. I know the only mud hole on the property and it's about 50 feet of soupy two track that floods with rain and never gets more than 18 inches deep. In that 700 miles that jeep has been through that mud hole about 6 times and been through about three dozen stream crossings all under 12 inches deep. On top of that the locker has pobably been engaged less than two dozen times and all primarily to test that it was working.

Regardless with only 700 miles of light to medium off road use I think there was an issue with installation considering it is leaking on both sides.

The mechanic wants a couple hundred dollars to fix and I'm not exactly in a possition to argue with him about a possibel installation fault from a year ago, also not good to do too much in a very small town wher I do not live but rather visit from time to time.
 

97tjguzzy

Explorer
This is my concern with having the same guy make the fix.
I spoke with him yesterday and he seemed unsurprized and just commented on how much my dad liked to "do all sorts of crazy stuff" with that jeep and "find the biggest mud hole and play in it". All a bit of exageration in my opinion, he had a lot of aspirations for the jeep and would often talk about what he wanted to do with it. I know the only mud hole on the property and it's about 50 feet of soupy two track that floods with rain and never gets more than 18 inches deep. In that 700 miles that jeep has been through that mud hole about 6 times and been through about three dozen stream crossings all under 12 inches deep. On top of that the locker has pobably been engaged less than two dozen times and all primarily to test that it was working.

Regardless with only 700 miles of light to medium off road use I think there was an issue with installation considering it is leaking on both sides.

The mechanic wants a couple hundred dollars to fix and I'm not exactly in a possition to argue with him about a possibel installation fault from a year ago, also not good to do too much in a very small town wher I do not live but rather visit from time to time.

There should be one more number on that axle and I can look it up, the BOM is along the top of the axle usually.

anyways, there is no reason for it to be leaking after only that much driving unless the ARB was installed incorrectly and it is pressurizing the axle housing when it activates the locker. Or if your dad left the jeep in mud for an extended period of time, like while stuck. in that case sand may have found its way in and eaten the seal...but doubtfull
 

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