Question on wiring lights

[sapper]

I have used those posi-lock connectors in the past and in fact have several in the truck at all times for emerency use. I like that they can be reused but I still prefer to use a soldered connection. I find the posi-lock connectors difficult to conceal after using them.

I also use a set of Channel lock crimpers for interior uses ($30) last you a lifetime and I have never had a joint fail using them. I work on generators for a living and am always repairing damaged harnesses, so a decent set of tools is a must.

 

[kjp1969]

I think the connection types are all reliable if done properly. I happen to like soldering and shrinking- I like the slim result, easy and neat to tuck into loom, instantly verifiable if it's strong or not, and easily disassembled. I can't remember one of my soldered joints failing in 32 years (I have been soldering since age 10). Even the sketchy looking ones hold fast.

 

[stoneydude]

So you splice both possitive wires from the lights into one and then wire that wire to the relay?

 

[Hilldweller]

So you splice both possitive wires from the lights into one and then wire that wire to the relay?

Yes; use a 12 gauge stranded and you should be okay.

 

[Schattenjager]

I have seen guys with $1600 drawers, uber nice refrigerators, and elaborate dual battery setups have sadly mickey mouse wiring. Life is defined by millimeters, so proper connections are the Achilles heel to most wiring jobs - even something as simple as lights.

A quick note on joining wires - there is no substitute for proper solder. There are different types out there, so matching the right solder to the job is important. I use generous length of stripped wire at both ends, use several joining twists along the length to keep the wire straight, then heat the wire for several seconds with the iron. Then I add the solder to the top of the wire while heating from the opposite side to melt the solder and allow it run INTO the joined wires. A little is best, so that it looks like a thin foil has been placed in the wires, allowing you make out the individual strands, now colored silver. Gobs / drops of solder are to be avoided. IF the connection runs the risk of any movement, I will use a cut piece of zip tie to span the junction plus a few millimeters on both sides, wrapping the area with a single layer silicon tape to hold the ridged zip tie plastic in place and also to protect the connection. This may seem ridiculously obvious, but I have just seen to many hack jobs on this, the boring part of cool gear installation, to not offer a little input I gained from a pro.

IF the need ever arises to reverse this, simply remove the tape and re-heat the solder until it liquifies and gently pull the wires apart. Safe. Easy. Reversible.

 

[stoneydude]

The lights already came with a joined positive wire so I'm good there. i guess all I have to do is extend the negative wires from the lights so they can "actually" reach a ground source and get a 30/40 relay, the wires they had were maybe 5" in length. Thanks guys.

 

[David Harris]

I have seen guys with $1600 drawers, uber nice refrigerators, and elaborate dual battery setups have sadly mickey mouse wiring. Life is defined by millimeters, so proper connections are the Achilles heel to most wiring jobs - even something as simple as lights.

A quick note on joining wires - there is no substitute for proper solder. There are different types out there, so matching the right solder to the job is important. I use generous length of stripped wire at both ends, use several joining twists along the length to keep the wire straight, then heat the wire for several seconds with the iron. Then I add the solder to the top of the wire while heating from the opposite side to melt the solder and allow it run INTO the joined wires. A little is best, so that it looks like a thin foil has been placed in the wires, allowing you make out the individual strands, now colored silver. Gobs / drops of solder are to be avoided. IF the connection runs the rick of any movement, I will use a cut piece of zip tie to span the junction plus a few millimeters on both sides, wrapping the area with a single layer silicon tape to hold the ridged zip tie plastic in place and also to protect the connection. This may seem ridiculously obvious, but I have just seen to many hack jobs on this, the boring part of cool gear installation, to not offer a little input I gained from a pro.

IF the need ever arises to reverse this, simply remove the tape and re-heat the solder until it liquifies and gently pull the wires apart. Safe. Easy. Reversible.

Nice write-up! Thanks!

David

 

[Hilldweller]

Don't neglect the ground wire; it's just as important...

 

[sapper]

Don't neglect the ground wire; it's just as important...

This is so true, as 90% of the faults I have repaired were poor ground or ground connections.