Ram Chassis Cab vs 3500 Pickup for next vehicle? Input needed! For flatbed truck camper.

[SimplyAnAdventure]

Hello all!

Well, I just sold my beloved Tacoma and Khaya camper this past weekend and now it's time to move onto something bigger. Wife is 100% remote and I am able to get quite a bit of time off so we need something a little more long term liveable with a real workspace for her to be comfortable in. ANYWAY.....

I am looking at ordering a new truck specifically for this task, as this will not be a daily driver. Right now I am thinking an OEV Camp FX (I think they renamed it the Backcountry) so either vehicle would take a flatbed tray and than have the camper mounted to that.
TBH I would prefer a chassis cab regular cab for the transmission options (Aisen with standard Cummins) and the ability to order a factory truck with 75-ish gallons of fuel on board. My biggest problem with the chassis cab is can I lift and get wheels for this setup??? I don't need to go big, 35-37's but I'd like the option for lift and wheels, I'm not sure if a chassis cab single wheel 3500 uses the same parts as the regular 3500.

Finally if it were you, what would you choose? Chassis cab or standard pick up and why? should be noted that the camper only needs 6.5 ft of bed so the space between the cab and camper would be storage boxes and a spare tire, OR I could do the 6.5ft bed truck and get a crew cab? which do you think would be more useful and how can I get the most onboard fuel? Seems only the 8ft bed crew cab has the 50 gallon tank???

Excuse all the Newbie questions but I am very versed in Tacoma's but not so much with the Ram,

Last one I promise, would you get air leveling suspension? The new OK4WD truck with the Camp FX on it that was just at East was a 3500 with an AEV lift and autoleveling suspension and Rin spoke highly of it....

Please share your thoughts!!!

Thank you!

 

[ttengineer]

If you are 100% doing a flat bed, it will be cheaper to go chassis cab.


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[SimplyAnAdventure]

If you are 100% doing a flat bed, it will be cheaper to go chassis cab.


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Cheaper yes, also easier, no bed to deal with, but can you lift them and do they use the same wheels, and suspension as a regular 3500? any ideas? if they do to me chassis cab is a no brainer.. I just don't know the details, in my searching I am afraid they are not the same...

 

[ttengineer]

They are the same suspension and axles. I think the only difference is the exhaust, fuel tank/def tank placement/size, and some of the electronic options.

IIRC, you can get a Limited trim now in chassis cabs too.


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[SimplyAnAdventure]

They are the same suspension and axles. I think the only difference is the exhaust, fuel tank/def tank placement/size, and some of the electronic options.

IIRC, you can get a Limited trim now in chassis cabs too.


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That is GREAT to hear!!! So an AEV lift and rims "should" fit the 3500 chassis cab single rear wheel. That would make life so much easier!

 

[ttengineer]

That is GREAT to hear!!! So an AEV lift and rims "should" fit the 3500 chassis cab single rear wheel. That would make life so much easier!

I know for a fact it will.

I would push you to Thuren or Carli though. The AEV is a lift in appearance only. It does not really increase performance.


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[Del Gue]

• I have the factory air assist on my ‘17 HO 3500. It’s a nice feature and really helpful for towing and having the ability to raise/lower the height of your truck with the push of a button. Comes in handy when hooking up/unhooking trailers. You can always add airbags though for a simpler system.
• If you are lifting the truck beyond leveling it, the factory air assist requires more consideration and the kits are more expensive than the leaf spring alternative (https://www.cjcoffroad.com/collecti...ram-3500-6-7l-cummins-with-factory-air-assist)
• The aisin shifts like a bus and pulls like a freight train. You can get it in the HO 6.7 too. The tuning on the chassis cab 6.7 is detuned (lower hp and torque than the SO or HO). You may not need the aisin altogether and will get better MPG with the SO and 68RFE combo.
• I think you can delete the box if ordering a SRW online and planning to add a tray.
• Why not go for an 8 foot box/tray, factory 50 gal fuel tank, and have the extra room for storage and gear if this isn’t your daily driver?

 

[GeorgeHayduke]

Chassis cab will be harder to insure if you're not commercial. The straight c-channel frame on the chassis cab makes it easier to mount a flatbed but it's not nearly as stiff as the boxed frame on the pickup. The c-channel frame rails are narrower so you can't put a spare in the normal location. Chassis cabs will have a slightly longer cab to axle than an 8' pickup and could give you a ~6" longer flatbed.

 

[Trestle]

There is a lot of incorrect information given here, so I will attempt to help. I have a ‘22 cab/chassis sitting in Mexico waiting on a train to my dealer, a tray shipping from Canada, and an FWC Granby sitting in my driveway.
Plan on a 7 month wait for your truck right now. It is likely to get better , but it will be months unless you find one on a dealer lot.
you can get up to 74 gallons fuel from the factory if going diesel
The front suspension is the same as a normal 3500, the rear is not. AEV has a lift, but my experience has been that they will not assist you in getting one direct from them. Some of their vendors know the part numbers to order, but won’t share them with you unless the do your full truck build. If you go a full build thru them, AT Overland will do an AEV lift for you. My personal opinion is that I t is indeed overpriced for what you get. Others will vehemently disagree. You have other options, but have to piece it together yourself.
you can go 35 or 37 with a mild lift, aftermarket wheels (I want with AEV Saltas), and minor fender trimming. PM if you want specifics as I’m typing this from a phone while sitting at an airport.
if you go with a cab chassis 60” cab to axle, your tray will be about 9’ long. Mine without a headache rack is 111”. If you go with a normal truck it will be about 8’ 6” with a headache rack.
yes the c channel is fleexier than a boxed frame. What people don’t mention is the 9 to 11” of aluminum boxed section that sits on top of the frame rails (think norweld or similar tray) will seriously stiffen the entire area that the flatbed camper sits on. For a FWC or the camper you’re thinking it is essentially a non issue.
you will not be able to fit a tire between the frame rails. It’s too narrow, and has a fuel tank there anyway. You need to plan for a home for it up top.
insurance is not an issue to worry about. If you can’t find anyone, PM me for an option.
Opt for the non-air suspension. You can add supplemental airbags if needed, but there are better options there too if not doing the AEV lift.
We went with the club cab. It will be long as hell, but works for us. Can’t advise you there.
best of luck.

 

[Zuber]

Are you really going to need the extra GVW? Fourwheeler campers are light. An aluminum flat bed is light. The 2500 RAM has much better suspension for rough roads with the four coil springs. Lots of great options from Carli.

If you need the extra GVW, I'd go for the 3500 pickup WITH a bed. You only save $100 for the bed delete. Just sell the bed/tail gate and you'll get way more than that. If you go with 35" tires, they will clear with no lift and will fit in the spare location on the pickup and no need for re-programming for the speedo/trans. Check out the Method Race wheels instead of the Salas, much better in my opinion. 4500 lb load rating, bead retaining will keep the tires on at low pressure. Last time I looked, you couldn't get a short bed 3500, long bed only. Also, get the 'Snow King' option, way worth it.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

You do NOT need a lift for 35-37 tires on the 2019+ Rams

I have the 6spd Asian HD in mine and it absolutely shifts like a school bus. I'd much before clunky shifting over transmission issues, so its not an issue for me at all, just an FYI

Regarding the "Headache Rack" comments. There is literally ZERO need for them on a build like this and its just wasted space, a lot of wasted space. No idea why they are so trendy.

I am currently decoding the magic sauce to get my 5500 to ride nicer than any of the 2500/3500 with "Lifts".

Once its dialed in, i will welcome anyone to drive it, to prove my point, i understand how suspension works more than 99.74% of the people on here, regurgitation bogus info!

With a cab and chassis with flat frame rails, the complexity comes into play trying to compensate for the flex.

You cant just bolt a camper to one and away ya go, the frame rails flex way too much, and it will crack the hell out of the camper and or the “tray”.

In one of my YouTube videos, we flexed my truck with a fork lift, and the FRAME flexed over 2 FEET before the suspension started moving... Soooooooo

My .02

 

[Zuber]

The Fourwheeler campers can tolerate some flex. The 2500 RAM Pickup doesn't flex with a fully boxed frame. At least my 2013 with an aluminum flat bed didn't and my 2021 2500 doesn't.

The C&C trucks have a channel frame and will flex more, but still not much.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

The C&C trucks have a channel frame and will flex more, but still not much.

You comments here are ignorant, blatantly WRONG, and could have serious consequences if someone decided to take your incorrect advice. Please educate yourself at least a little bit

C&C frame dont flex much you say?

Do you need anymore evidence than this (fast forward to about the 5:30 mark):

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

The 2500 RAM Pickup doesn't flex with a fully boxed frame. At least my 2013 with an aluminum flat bed didn't and my 2021 2500 doesn't.

This couldnt be a more incorrect statement.

Of course it doesnt flex with a flatbed mounted to it, thats because its transferring the energy elsewhere and will likely lead to frame and or flatbed cracking. Energy doesnt simply disappear

Take the flatbed off and see how much the frame flexes.

Frames are designed to flex, one for comfort and two to remove stress.

Your comments are both incorrect and dangerous

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Also worth noting is where the camper will sit in relation to the rear axle and where you center of gravity is.

This guy contacted me regarding setting up his Tundra and a FWC. I adamantly told him it was a bad idea due to where it would sit on a double cab, and how the FWC weigh a fair amount more than their bogus claims.

He threw a childish Rant, told me I didn’t know anything and blocked me.

About a year later, here it is:



Folks keep regurgitating the “FWC are light” nonsense and the “you’ll be fine” nonsense and this is the result.

I’ll bet tacos you’re going to see more and more of this happening now that the frames are fatiguing because poorly educated people removed all the flex out of their frames.

Folks that say “do you really need that much GVWR” are likely the same folks that drive on the freeway with their masks on