Rear carrier removal questions 99 montero
- Thread starter billygoats
- Start date
billygoats
n00b
Makes sense. I found tiny pieces of dark red bits left in my shifter rod and inside my xcase. I figured it was just dirty from the gear oil. But you confirmed it. My 99 had a red bushing. I got the new used one out of a 94-96 that had over 150k on it and it was white and looked new!
billygoats
n00b
After driving the truck around for a couple weeks on and off road, here is my impression:
Off road (Cleghorn Ridge Trail) the truck works awesome. 4-low climbed effortlessly up very steep obstacles and over large rocks. No wheelspin even during extreme off camber situations. The truck climbs slow and steady. This is from the combination of new gear ratio and front lokka. I usually run obstacles with my rear locker already in vs locking it if I start to slip. I figure it would put less stress on the front drivetrain and axles by more evenly distributing the power/torque through all 4 wheels. I could only imagine the difference with 4.90 and transfer case gear upgrades!
On road:
Manual locking front hubs are absolutely necessary with the front lokka. This is due to strong tendencies for the steering to want to return to center when making turns at higher speeds. I'm talking anything other than a right or left turn from a stop. You also have to make a substantial effort to keep the wheel turned during these higher speed turns as the wheel really wants to go back to center. This is during 4 wheel hi or 2 wheel hi with the front hubs locked. When the from hubs are unlocked the truck steers normally. In fact it appears to drive better due to the front drivetrain not being driven by the front wheels. This could be a placebo effect though. The obvious upside is less wear on the front drivetrain and theoretically better gas mileage.
I also disconnected the rear sway and put back on the front. Much better on-road handling. No noticeable front articulation difference off road.
Top of Cleghorn on a Father's Day run!
Off road (Cleghorn Ridge Trail) the truck works awesome. 4-low climbed effortlessly up very steep obstacles and over large rocks. No wheelspin even during extreme off camber situations. The truck climbs slow and steady. This is from the combination of new gear ratio and front lokka. I usually run obstacles with my rear locker already in vs locking it if I start to slip. I figure it would put less stress on the front drivetrain and axles by more evenly distributing the power/torque through all 4 wheels. I could only imagine the difference with 4.90 and transfer case gear upgrades!
On road:
Manual locking front hubs are absolutely necessary with the front lokka. This is due to strong tendencies for the steering to want to return to center when making turns at higher speeds. I'm talking anything other than a right or left turn from a stop. You also have to make a substantial effort to keep the wheel turned during these higher speed turns as the wheel really wants to go back to center. This is during 4 wheel hi or 2 wheel hi with the front hubs locked. When the from hubs are unlocked the truck steers normally. In fact it appears to drive better due to the front drivetrain not being driven by the front wheels. This could be a placebo effect though. The obvious upside is less wear on the front drivetrain and theoretically better gas mileage.
I also disconnected the rear sway and put back on the front. Much better on-road handling. No noticeable front articulation difference off road.
Top of Cleghorn on a Father's Day run!
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
Did the RR manual hubs feel "cheap" when you installed them?
billygoats
n00b
They felt fine. I don't have any aisins to compare with. But they look exactly like them despite all the online pics looking different. I was pleasantly surprised when I received them. Not the smooth round ones like the pictures show. I took mine apart to grease them prior to install (not necessary) and they seem well made. They assemble just like aisins since I used an aisin online DIY to reassemble.
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nckwltn
Explorer
your statement of "you'll need some brute force" is no joke! I pulled a rear from a 94 SR today at the pick a parts.
billygoats
n00b
Nice! Glad to hear you got it out! Sneakyninja's advice helped me out a lot too. Any issues getting it out? How about the front?
nckwltn
Explorer
replying on my other thread ;-)
link:http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...o-a-gen-2-5-with-locker?p=1614395#post1614395
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Land rover discovery factory rear ladder fits well on the montero!
Might pick it up depending on cost
I know this was a few days ago, but I wanted to throw in my 2 cents.
I picked up a ebay ladder mk1 Pajero Rear Ladder for my 1990, 7 months ago. It works great, really strong. Recently painted it black .
I saw 2 different kinds on ebay, crooked and straighter. All the mk2 Pajeros in India have the crooked ladder on back.
You could also try the mk1 ladder (first one) and see if it fits. It actually fits mk1 pajero (monter) and Land Cruiser 70? series I think.
Attachments
No man, the RR manual hubs are nice. I've had them on my mk1 rig for 6 months wheeled a dozen times with them. They are just way more reliable, and necessary if running a Lokka/Aussie front locker.
The one thing about them, you will notice when you receive them, the 6 outer bolts that basically hold the "hub cap" (black and red parts of the hub) are way too short, and don't have enough thread to properly torque down. I know it's only the cap, but I wanted to torque it more than the 20 ft.lbs which it states in manual, which is almost nothing.
So I went down to Orchard Supply Hardware and picked up 12 M6 or M8 (can't remember the size) and got 20mm I think, twice as long as the ones that came with the hubs, you figure out the exact length.
Other than that no issues what so ever. Love them.
billygoats
n00b
The hubs felt fine when I installed them.
Since the install, I have managed to break both sides of the Rugged Ridge hubs. They both completely exploded. Fortunately I had my stock hubs with me. Slapped them on, and continued the trail......until I met an obstacle that I did not have enough low gearing for. Pressing the gas just caused the torque converter to load up, and not move. I backed up a bit and hit it with a little bit of speed to bump over. My fault for not hitting the brakes as soon as I was over, as the front wheels were spinning as they touched down, and SNAP went my drivers side outer CV joint. I think the aussie locker really puts stress on the other components.
Since the front is locked with the aussie, and both auto-hubs back on, both front axles spin equally when in 4low. I had no choice but to remove the drivers side axle to continue the trail in 3wd. I pulled the axle, and stuck a socket in the diff output, held it in with bailing wire, and continued the trail without a problem. No diff oil leakage either!
Rugged Ridge ended up replacing them free of charge within the warranty period. I put the new ones on....which physically looked just like the ones that broke.
So, the axle that broke was the O'reilly reman axle. Costed about 80 bucks no core. I put that one in because my OEM Mitsu axle had a split boot. Figured it was quicker and less hassle to swap in the reman. It had a lifetime warranty and looked the same as OEM, so I said why not! Fast forward to this past weekend.....broke the same axle outer cv. Axle broke while reversing up a hill as I was positioning my truck as an anchor for another truck. Granted, I suppose a lot of force was being put on that joint as all the weight was now on that axle as I was reversing, it should not have broke. There was no wheel spin or any abuse. Just a loud bang!
Based on my experience, I will be bringing my OEM mitsu axle to a shop to have repacked and rebooted. I'll install the axle and take the o'reillys out to get warrantied. It will be my new trail spare.
I really think the aussie locker really puts quite a bit more stress on all the drivetrain components as now, in 4low, and rear locker, the truck is fully locked and theoretically, if only one of my 4 tires has traction, the entire force to move the car will be powered by the one axle. I don't think the front drivetrain components ever was made to handle those stresses!
nckwltn
Explorer
Thanks for sharing! My boots are starting to look cracked and was thinking I would just replace the whole assembly so I didn't have to mess with putting on a new boot.... but now, I might do the same as you and just get the existing CV joint/axles rebooted and packed (or likely do it myself)
billygoats
n00b
It is cheaper or about the same cost to repack and reboot the oem axle at a shop vs. the aftermarket one with questionable strength. I still need to drop off my oem axle as I don't have the skills to disassemble and repack myself. And I HATE cv grease!