Rear Power Outlet

[jh.]

Well I first tried to resurrect an ancient thread to ask this question, but there was no response…so I’ll try again.

What’s the easiest/most reliable way to rewire the rear power outlet in a DII so it stays hot regardless of the key position? Need to run my fridge consistently on trips (lest my beer get warm).

Thanks!

:beer:

 

[BADDANDY]

This is a general answer. I would run a new, protected by split-loom, positive 12g wire with an in-line fuse directly to the battery. A 12g negative can be run anywhere close by to the plug.

 

[ranewman]

Check your trailer plug. I think it has a constant hot you could use.

 

[pugslyyy]

Check your trailer plug. I think it has a constant hot you could use.

Pretty sure that it is only hot when ignition is on (for charging the trailer brake battery).

I'd run a wire with in-line fuse per BADDANDY. I've seen plenty of Disco2s wired up that way. There are plenty of other things you might want to also power up this way while you are at it (on board air, for example)

 

[jh.]

Check your trailer plug. I think it has a constant hot you could use.

Funny you mention the trailer plug. I just installed a factory hitch since mine didn't come with one and have been tossing the idea of a small fishing boat around...and would have to add a trailer plug if I did.

So long story short, I don't have one.



Thanks for the suggestions. From my reading I think there's a grommet on the firewall near the passenger foot well. I assume the best way to add the extra wire is to route it forward under the seats and carpet as much as possible and through the firewall...

 

[BADDANDY]

I assume the best way to add the extra wire is to route it forward under the seats and carpet as much as possible and through the firewall...

Yup, a pain in the butt, but the best way. I ran mine behind side panels/carpeting and door sill plates/panels.

 

[proper4wd]

The best way to run it would be on the chassis of the vehicle, and up through one of the many grommets in the rear of the vehicle used for lighting and other (trailer for example) harnesses. Protect the whole thing with loom and install a nice fuse block right at the battery.

What I did on my last electrical project like this, was install a large 50A fuse right at the battery, and ran paired 10ga + and - wires right from the battery, through split loom, to the rear of the vehicle where I created a "substation" of sorts using two isolated power studs (one positive and one ground), and a marine rated circuit-breaker switch panel.

This created a separate electrical system for accessories in the rear of the vehicle that was isolated and easily added on to.

I used #11861556

And two of these

Mounted in a small project box that was about 3"x5"x8"

 

[pugslyyy]

The best way to run it would be on the chassis of the vehicle, and up through one of the many grommets in the rear of the vehicle used for lighting and other (trailer for example) harnesses. Protect the whole thing with loom and install a nice fuse block right at the battery.

What I did on my last electrical project like this, was install a large 50A fuse right at the battery, and ran paired 10ga + and - wires right from the battery, through split loom, to the rear of the vehicle where I created a "substation" of sorts using two isolated power studs (one positive and one ground), and a marine rated circuit-breaker switch panel.

This created a separate electrical system for accessories in the rear of the vehicle that was isolated and easily added on to.

That's the right approach - plan ahead so that you can easily expand the system for additional accessories. I guarantee once you have run power to one thing you'll start thinking about all sorts of other things that would be nice to power up.

 

[jh.]

Thanks...and good points. All I need today is the fridge, but eventually onboard air is on the agenda and I was planning on putting a 110 inverter in the rear as well.

 

[pugslyyy]

Thanks...and good points. All I need today is the fridge, but eventually onboard air is on the agenda and I was planning on putting a 110 inverter in the rear as well.

Running the line from the battery to the loadspace is the biggest job - plan ahead so you only have to do it once! It really sucks when you have to run a heavier gauge wire in place of an existing one because you didn't plan ahead. Not that I've ever had to do that or anything...

 

[jh.]

Running the line from the battery to the loadspace is the biggest job - plan ahead so you only have to do it once! It really sucks when you have to run a heavier gauge wire in place of an existing one because you didn't plan ahead. Not that I've ever had to do that or anything...

12g good enough for this job? I was trying to think of anything else I would be adding...but can't. I suppose I could add all of the extra lights that I will someday hook up to my currently non-existent roof rack...

 

[proper4wd]

Extra interior lights, on board water, fridge, inverter. Those are the things I had in mine. If you will be running a compressor and inverter off the system, you should use much heavier gauge! 2 or 4 g...

 

[proper4wd]

You will probably be at 100A (at least, depending on compressor) and 20 feet from battery to source.

 

[jh.]

Wow - look at that. Thanks!

I will never claim to be smart when it comes to anything electrical.

 

[AndrewClarke]

Well I would have eyeballed it at 8 gauge, which IIRC also happens to be what I used. I ran the wire from my secondary battery to a painless fuse panel. From there it goes to my 7 pin trailer connector, my compressor, soon my 12V outlet for my cooler, and whatever else I end up putting back there. The Painless system I bought is nice as it has a bank of fuses that are always live, and a bank that comes on with the ignition.

As has been mentioned, whatever else you do, put a fuse in the wire as close to the battery as you can. I used a self-resetting breaker as I have a 110 and my spare battery is under the seat and it's hard to get to due to my seat choice. This is really important unless you're into electrical fires.