Rear Power Outlet

[Juddy]

The best way to run it would be on the chassis of the vehicle, and up through one of the many grommets in the rear of the vehicle used for lighting and other (trailer for example) harnesses. Protect the whole thing with loom and install a nice fuse block right at the battery.

What I did on my last electrical project like this, was install a large 50A fuse right at the battery, and ran paired 10ga + and - wires right from the battery, through split loom, to the rear of the vehicle where I created a "substation" of sorts using two isolated power studs (one positive and one ground), and a marine rated circuit-breaker switch panel.

This created a separate electrical system for accessories in the rear of the vehicle that was isolated and easily added on to.

I used #11861556

And two of these

Mounted in a small project box that was about 3"x5"x8"

These are a really good idea, just what we need, have you got a picture of yours fitted?

 

[proper4wd]

Unfortunately I dont think I do. I sold the vehicle with the electrical system fitted.

 

[jh.]

And two of these

Mounted in a small project box that was about 3"x5"x8"

Well this is the route I'm going - a little more advanced than I thought I'd be tackling, but may as well plan for the future. Just hope I have this up and running by July 1's camping trip. Since I'm also building a sleeping platform, I have plenty of space to hide a stand alone box - and plenty of extra lumber since the box has certainly been trial and error at this point.

Dumb question...but what size terminals did you get? Doubt it really matters, but they come in 4 sizes.

The 11861556 is perfect since it has the two power outlets and that's what I'm going for right now. The extra 4 ports are good for later.

Last dumb questions as I want to make sure I have this right since this is a first for me:

1) Build small box and install electrical panel.
2) Add two terminals and connect to panel (did you do this inside the box or on top?)
3) Wire the two terminals directly to the battery with a 50a fuse on the positive wire somewhere in the engine compartment.
4) Since my spare space will most likely be further up the truck (behind driver seat), I will probably use the hole left from removing the back seat and wire (with loom) up under the vehicle up to the engine compartment. I may not be an expert with electrics - but I'm damn good with zip ties.
5) Enjoy frosty cold beer at any time.

With an Optima Yellow Top, how often should I be turning the Disco on during a camping trip? Every 6 hours (assuming the only constant draw is the fridge and the occasional interior light)? My B&D battery jumper has failed me with the PO's interstate battery so I'm not as confident in it as I used to be in terms of totally killing a battery while 50 miles from anybody.

THANKS AGAIN.

 

[racehorse]

These are a really good idea, just what we need, have you got a picture of yours fitted?

REGARDING SWITCH PANELS

I went this system as well - 60A fuse at aux battery, 8AWG marine wire to switch panel - great west marine switch panel with two 12v inverters installed nicely on back panel of my LR3. Hardwired my fridge to it. Unfortunately, if i had to do it again I would use 2 or 4 AWG so i could hook up my inverter and eventually elgena water heater. Just remember that depending on what you want with your rig - marine fittings, anything marine is typically better than what you can find in other places - they are built to survive salt, water, and not leaving a boat stranded in the middle of the pacific.

 

[unseenone]

Here are some photos of install with dual battery and two separate runs to the rear cargo area. One is a set of two 12v Marine plugs, this is rated for 20 amps. The 2nd run is to a Anderson panel, and it is rated at 40amps. I hope this helps, at least on the LR3 for panel location, and so on. The battery splitter is the Traxide system. The winch is wired to the side posts on this setup.

Traxide SC80-LR
HAM Antenna Install

 

[spikemd]

I ran 10g wire to BlueSea fusebox and then wired existing socket and added two more sockets. After using them on the trail, I am going to either upgrade to locking sockets or change to Anderson plugs. The 12v sockets just don't hold the plugs well on the trail. I need to run my ARB fridge and charge my GoalZero Extreme350 while driving.

My install is in a P38 but you can do a similar install in your Disco.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/96946-Range-Rover-P38-12v-Accessory-plug-and-Blue-Sea-fusebox-install

 

[umbertob]

The 12v plug that Blue Sea sells mates very securely with their marine sockets, it's almost impossible to accidentally knock it off once you twist it in place. I just used one to replace the crappy plug at the end of the power cord of my Edgestar refrigerator, which would often come loose just by looking at it funny. The plugs do have a 10 amp limit, but that should be plenty for most refrigerators. http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-1010-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0026KY79M

 

[racehorse]

The 12v plug that Blue Sea sells mates very securely with their marine sockets, it's almost impossible to accidentally knock it off once you twist it in place. I just used one to replace the crappy plug at the end of the power cord of my Edgestar refrigerator, which would often come loose just by looking at it funny. The plugs do have a 10 amp limit, but that should be plenty for most refrigerators. http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-1010-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0026KY79M

umberto, you might hardwire the edgestar plug to your circuit board/power post/fusebox whichever you might be using. It works well - i did this and now eliminates the 12v plug.

 

[umbertob]

Thanks. I thought about that, but I don't use the fridge so much to warrant a hardwire job honestly... Plus, with all these extra 12v outlets that came with my Traxide aux battery kit (I have a LR4), I almost feel bad not using them for something, lol.

 

[johnsoax]

I'm afraid I don't know the answer to do this in a D2, but am working on doing it in my LR3 right now.

All three of the power outlets are run by the same relay in the central junction box, so I am looking at jumpering (with a fused jumper wire) from the hot side of a fuse to the load side of the 15A fuse that runs the back one (using a blown fuse to hold the jumper in here).

This will allow the front two to keep being switched off with the ignition, while allowing me to be able to run a pump or other 12v accessory from the rear without having the key in the ignition.

 

[Juddy]

Looks like the west Marine 11861556, will suit our needs.

I do have a tech question on the fuse side of things.

The Blue Systems Maxi Block has been suggested, however could I just utilise a Blue sea Terminal fused block instead? or do i require both?

Cheers

Justin

 

[Some Dude]

Here's an alternative perspective on making the D2 rear plug constantly hot: The hot lead from the plug is a white/green wire that runs through the wiring harness up to the engine compartment fuse box. Pull the fuse box out and flip it over, find the green/white wire on one of the connectors, snip it, splice it, and run straight to the battery. The whole job takes 4 minutes. The fridge draws something ridiculously low like .8 amps with a start-up max draw of 2 amps (this is an Engel 45). I think running 10 or 12 gauge back to the socket is complete overkill. I have been running my fridge this way for years and have never had any trouble. I have also never needed power for anything else in the back of the truck. If you know you're not going to need anything more than low-amp power for a fridge in the back, save yourself an entire afternoon and $100 running a whole accessory block and a bunch of 10 gauge.

Edit to clarify, the wire is white with a green stripe. Not the other way around.

 

[Juddy]

any thoughts on my question?

 

[jh.]

Here's an alternative perspective on making the D2 rear plug constantly hot: The hot lead from the plug is a green/white wire that runs through the wiring harness up to the engine compartment fuse box. Pull the fuse box out and flip it over, find the green/white wire on one of the connectors, snip it, splice it, and run straight to the battery. The whole job takes 4 minutes. The fridge draws something ridiculously low like .8 amps with a start-up max draw of 2 amps (this is an Engel 45). I think running 10 or 12 gauge back to the socket is complete overkill. I have been running my fridge this way for years and have never had any trouble. I have also never needed power for anything else in the back of the truck. If you know you're not going to need anything more than low-amp power for a fridge in the back, save yourself an entire afternoon and $100 running a whole accessory block and a bunch of 10 gauge.

Thanks. This really helps. The block and wires got lost in the mail so my project is delayed and I need it ready by the first. Will do this and then the more permanent fix later.

 

[Some Dude]

Here's a PDF of the accessory socket wiring. You can see the wire I'm talking about running from the interior fuse box to the external fuse box.