Rear swing out material?

[Wheelingnoob]

I'm just in the process of building my rear tire swing out and Jerry can holder. The spare will be a 33x12.5R15 MT and a steel wheel (80lbs) I would also like to have two 5 gallon NATO Jerry cans and a 5lb propane tank on it.

I already have a double sheer pivot and a 5/8th's bolt for securing it closed. What I need to know tho is the size of square tube to use. I am looking at using 2"x3" for the main structure or wing arm, what thickness of material have you all used, I would think that 1/8th is to thin but is 3/16th good? I want to keep the weight to a min as its hanging out the back.

What did you use for the actual mounting area? I was thinking about getting some DOM and bending it into a hoop shape to mount the tire and other components on. I would usually only have the spare on but on longer trips would like the Jerry cans and propane. So I'm thinking about making the Jerry can and propane mounts removable.

Any help in materials to use would be great!

Jeremy

 

[Hedge]

The only thing I've ever fabricated is the swing-out tyre carrier for my Cruiser, so take my thoughts with a pinch of salt. I used 3/16", 2" square tube for the pivot arm and the triangle which mounts the spare above it. I think 3/16" wall is thick enough for a main beam and if my spindle were up to it, I would feel comfortable adding 10 gallons of fuel to the main beam in addition to the heavy steel wheel and 33" tyre; perhaps even the propane tank as well. The big limfac to me is the torsional load acting on the pivot point. The closer the tyre, jerry can and other loads are to the centerline of the pivot arm, the lower the torsional load they will exert upon the pivot point while hammering across washboards, potholes and expansion cracks on the highway. My only regret is not using the beefiest spindle I could find for my pivot point; conserving money here was, in retrospect, penny wise and pound foolish. If using 2x3" tube, it might be more resistant to fatiguing from torsional moments if the 3" face is the vertical face.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

The only thing I've ever fabricated is the swing-out tyre carrier for my Cruiser, so take my thoughts with a pinch of salt. I used 3/16", 2" square tube for the pivot arm and the triangle which mounts the spare above it. I think 3/16" wall is thick enough for a main beam and if my spindle were up to it, I would feel comfortable adding 10 gallons of fuel to the main beam in addition to the heavy steel wheel and 33" tyre; perhaps even the propane tank as well. The big limfac to me is the torsional load acting on the pivot point. The closer the tyre, jerry can and other loads are to the centerline of the pivot arm, the lower the torsional load they will exert upon the pivot point while hammering across washboards, potholes and expansion cracks on the highway. My only regret is not using the beefiest spindle I could find for my pivot point; conserving money here was, in retrospect, penny wise and pound foolish. If using 2x3" tube, it might be more resistant to fatiguing from torsional moments if the 3" face is the vertical face.

Great thanks for the reply! I have got a Iron pug off road style (oil impregnated brass 1.25" OD 1" ID with a 1.5 x .250 DOM outer sleeve and a 1" bolt) pivot that is being installed in a double sheer mounting with a 1" bolt. So I think my pivot will be fine I'm going to make the swing arm with the 3x2x 3/16th tube and for the tire mount, Jerry can and Propane I will most likely use 1.5" x .250wall DOM. Everything but the spare tire mount will be removable so driving it daily its a light as possible.

 

[epicrider]

I built a similar rear swing away bumper for my Sportsmobile last year using a 3"x6"x1/8" steel tube for the bumper and 2"x3"x1/4" for the swing arm. I used a bearing spindle from 4x4 LABS, which was the biggest one I could find, and I built what I call an anti-torque latch for the other end of the arm to take half the load off the spindle. The 2"x3"x1/4" arm doesn't flex hardly at all with the large spare tire, Storage box (that holds a Propone tank for grilling and gas fire pit) and my bike rack that extends out beyond the tire and box, which creates a lot of torque on the arm and bumper. My guess I have over 200 pounds of weight on the rear arm and it doesn't flex that much due to the two solid anchor points at each end of the arm. So far after 15,000 miles and lots of back road adventures, the latch and spindle are still tight and no signs of play. Here are few pics of my BUMPER BUILD. I also design the spare tire and box mounts so that there are bolted to the arm so I can easily reconfigure it depending on the type of trip. I hope this helps.

I'm just in the process of building my rear tire swing out and Jerry can holder. The spare will be a 33x12.5R15 MT and a steel wheel (80lbs) I would also like to have two 5 gallon NATO Jerry cans and a 5lb propane tank on it.

I already have a double sheer pivot and a 5/8th's bolt for securing it closed. What I need to know tho is the size of square tube to use. I am looking at using 2"x3" for the main structure or wing arm, what thickness of material have you all used, I would think that 1/8th is to thin but is 3/16th good? I want to keep the weight to a min as its hanging out the back.

What did you use for the actual mounting area? I was thinking about getting some DOM and bending it into a hoop shape to mount the tire and other components on. I would usually only have the spare on but on longer trips would like the Jerry cans and propane. So I'm thinking about making the Jerry can and propane mounts removable.

Any help in materials to use would be great!

Jeremy

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yes that helps a lot! I am going to use 3/16th as its the same as the rest of my bumper. Should work out well and help keep the weight of it all down.

Thanks,

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Depends a lot on design.

Mine is 1/8" which I think is more than thick enough, but my design is triangulated.

 

[seanz0rz]

here is the buildup: http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=8072.0

bumper and tabs are .180 steel, actual swingouts are .120 wall tube.

some reinforcements are due for the uprights, on my list of stuff to do before pismo. have questions, ask away!

 

[Mamontof]

Local weld shop use 2x2 , it cost me less of $ 200