jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
Then what happened to what was attached on page two, post 12? You get rid of the filter relocation?
Rebuilding an XJ 4.0--in Hemi Orange!
- Thread starter BuckeyeBullet
- Start date
While it could be cleaner with A/N fittings and such it's worked for...... 10 years... I usually put a small (foot sq.) piece of foil under it to catch the residual oil once the filter is removed, plus a little will spill when I tip it slightly to maneuver it out. It's tight, but doable. Oil leaves the engine goes through the filter then to the cooler then back to the engine.
I just used the two rear A/C bolt then I used the stud mount on the pass. shock, I put a rubber isolater in between the shock nut & the mount. This isn't the best mount... if/when I redo it I'll support the rear differently... not horrible, but it could be better.
Hope these help...
Curt
bldeagle10
Explorer
I learned yesterday why my Jeep needs a snorkel, unfortunately my XJ has a search light mounted on the drivers side A-pillar so my only snorkel options are cheap home brew or the option I am leaning towards, buying and shipping a snorkel for a diesel aussie XJ, they mount on the passenger side, just have to route my intake over there.
I will be watching this thread intently and will for sure pick your brain here and there.
I will be watching this thread intently and will for sure pick your brain here and there.
BuckeyeBullet
Observer
No, everything that I installed then is still there, but I never mounted the filter or the filter bracket. The adapter is in place as are the lines but that's it. The filter will be under the radiator on the right side but I need to get a radiator so I can see how close the fan shroud comes to the filter bracket. Not going to mount it 'till I have all the parts.
As for the snorkel, the Spectre unit crosses over the valve cover and takes cold air from the cowl on the right side. No parts on the A-pillar. I intend to install it per the instructions for now, but I want to get a prefilter cap and just extend the Spectre inlet to the top of the cowl (that way I won't have to worry about snow covering the cowl and blocking my air intake).
Curt, thanks for sending those photos I'll take a look at them later on when I have more time.
BuckeyeBullet
Observer
Well it has been awhile since my last post. I've been out and about on my KLR, haven't had much time for Jeep work. I did get some stuff done last week (only big parts left to buy are injectors and a radiator) and will be posting about that in the next few days. One of the big things to cross off my list was getting the oil filter mount in place. I put the old radiator in with the fan shroud on it to see where things would fit, and I was able to use two existing holes in the front crossmember. I did have to enlarge one of the holes slightly to fit 5/16" hardware and I drilled the third hole new. Overall it was pretty easy. I was even able to keep the factory wiring harness clip hole. The hoses are not bunched up/too long, in fact I had to use a short nipple and coupling to get the length right on the lower hose. I still want to make a bracket so the oil hoses stay away from the alternator. Right now they seem to want to sit right between the alternator and the frame rail which isn't an ideal spot. The oil filter in the photos is a free-flow type that I am just using to check clearances. In reality it will take a FL1A Ford style filter (all my other 4-wheel vehicles use one of those).
In case y'all are wondering, there will be a stout bumper in front of this filter and I intend on building a skid plate as well, with a removable access panel for the filter. I think it'll be pretty safe there. After the first oil change I'll see if I need to make a notch or bend a spout shape in the bottom lip of the crossmember. Oil draining from the filter may collect in there during filter changes. Time will tell.
In case y'all are wondering, there will be a stout bumper in front of this filter and I intend on building a skid plate as well, with a removable access panel for the filter. I think it'll be pretty safe there. After the first oil change I'll see if I need to make a notch or bend a spout shape in the bottom lip of the crossmember. Oil draining from the filter may collect in there during filter changes. Time will tell.
Jim K in PA
Adventurer
I prefer the Fosters oil can filter over the Coors. More capacity. :sombrero:
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
But Guinness makes for a tastier oil change! 
BuckeyeBullet
Observer
Guinness would be great! But I live in Utah...we can't get it here :-(
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
But you have MOAB... kinda makes up for the near beer. A little!
BuckeyeBullet
Observer
The intake manifold is finished. I decided to go with DEI Reflect-a-Gold self-adhesive tape in place of the factory insulation pad. I used the 2in wide x 180in long tape and had some left over. Maybe I'll use the extra tape to wrap the fuel rail. It is a time-consuming process to cut and apply it to a funky shape like that intake. So far no tape has pulled off which is a good sign, but it hasn't been hot yet. The real kicker, as promised, was getting to those intake manifold bolts. I spent 2hrs taping the manifold and then went to put it on--but I couldn't get to the two bolts on either side of #3 and 4 exhaust ports. Had to drop the exhaust Y-pipe back down. There was just barely enough room for me to sneak those bolts into their places around the header tubes, and I could get a low-profile ratcheting wrench on the bolt heads to tighten them. Couldn't get a torque wrench on any of the bolts so I did my best to make them evenly tight using my arm. What a pain that was. Took a lot of cussing and beer to get that manifold on there. It better not have to come off for any reason. Well, here are the pics.
BuckeyeBullet
Observer
Homemade tow bar
So I decided yesterday that if I bought an A-frame trailer coupling, I could bring my Jeep home today. The Jeep didn't really need to be over in the storage garage anymore since the engine is almost finished, and having it at home meant I might be a little more motivated to work on it after work for an hour or two. Got out the sawzall, grinder, and welder and went at it. I had just enough steel sitting around that I built a tow bar for the price of the coupling. It is 3/16" square stock. You can't really see it in the photos, but the pivot bolts are installed through some thick-wall (1/8") tube I had, welded to the insides of those little angle iron pieces. The whole tow bar is major overkill for a Jeep but I made it out of stuff on hand...who knows maybe I will use it later as a tongue for a motorcycle trailer. I made some cheesy frame brackets by doing some clearance grinding and drilling extra holes in the factory bumper brackets that I had no other use for. I was only going about a mile on flat roads, and they did the trick. Here are photos. Some of you may notice that I replaced the Coors can with a real oil filter.
So I decided yesterday that if I bought an A-frame trailer coupling, I could bring my Jeep home today. The Jeep didn't really need to be over in the storage garage anymore since the engine is almost finished, and having it at home meant I might be a little more motivated to work on it after work for an hour or two. Got out the sawzall, grinder, and welder and went at it. I had just enough steel sitting around that I built a tow bar for the price of the coupling. It is 3/16" square stock. You can't really see it in the photos, but the pivot bolts are installed through some thick-wall (1/8") tube I had, welded to the insides of those little angle iron pieces. The whole tow bar is major overkill for a Jeep but I made it out of stuff on hand...who knows maybe I will use it later as a tongue for a motorcycle trailer. I made some cheesy frame brackets by doing some clearance grinding and drilling extra holes in the factory bumper brackets that I had no other use for. I was only going about a mile on flat roads, and they did the trick. Here are photos. Some of you may notice that I replaced the Coors can with a real oil filter.
BuckeyeBullet
Observer
Added a "new" set of rims last week. These are off an '05 TJ that a friend of mine was selling. To me they look much better on an XJ than a TJ, and they definitely look much better than the steelies on my Jeep which are in need of a repaint. I also gained 30x9.50 tires with the TJ rims that fill the wheel wells a little more. They're a little big but that's more of an excuse to lift it. The rear springs sure look saggy... One thing I'm not too sure about is they have 1/2" more backspacing than the steel wheels have. They are wider wheels so they ultimately stick out of the fenders farther, but I hope the backspacing won't be an issue before I lift it.
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BuckeyeBullet
Observer
Now things are starting to move. At long last, I have all the parts needed to make this Jeep go. The last things I was waiting for were the injectors, and they are here. I bought Ford X2FE injectors new, but since I've never done much work on a port injected vehicle (like install injectors) I'm not sure if I have the right O-rings. Of course, I'm learning all this as I go AND using parts for a different vehicle, but all dimensions between stock and Ford injectors are identical. The O-rings just seem too big to me and don't fit in the rail or the intake. I'm wondering if I need Jeep-specific O-rings or is there some trick to working new injector O-rings in?
I also decided to hit the junkyards last week and see if could find a few parts I need before the Jeep is roadworthy. I didn't find what I was looking for, but I did find some factory skidplates (front and gas tank) for $15. My Jeep didn't have a factory hitch or skidplate in back so I had to make a strip with nuts on it to mount the gas tank plate on the left side. The donor Jeep had what I needed but I didn't know that until I got home and tried to mount it...the yard is an hour away so it was easier to just make my own. I'll have to cut an access hole in the front skidplate since my oil filter is behind it, but that's ok the price was right! Now if only I can find a lift kit at the junkyard too... Photos of the rear skidplate are below.
I also decided to hit the junkyards last week and see if could find a few parts I need before the Jeep is roadworthy. I didn't find what I was looking for, but I did find some factory skidplates (front and gas tank) for $15. My Jeep didn't have a factory hitch or skidplate in back so I had to make a strip with nuts on it to mount the gas tank plate on the left side. The donor Jeep had what I needed but I didn't know that until I got home and tried to mount it...the yard is an hour away so it was easier to just make my own. I'll have to cut an access hole in the front skidplate since my oil filter is behind it, but that's ok the price was right! Now if only I can find a lift kit at the junkyard too... Photos of the rear skidplate are below.
88Xj
Banned
S10/Dak leafs, maybe a MJ shackle if you find one? Up front you can V8 Zj springs and spacers..or just buy Acco's which are extremely nice to have to level to level your rig!
You can also use Rodeo leafs which have more arch & not as thick..so they won't ride as rough & will flex better...I have a OME 1" pack with a 2.5" RE full length AAL in mine. Looking to do shackle relocators next..up front is a OME 1" coil = v8 ZJ coil...same exact thing & a 2" spacer. Ditching my spacer for accos pretty soon!
Flex it amazing, I can bottom out the coil litterally. As in each coil together each other..I added 2 straps/coil retainers to keep the coil in place cause when its flexed out much it looks like its gonna go shooting somewhere :Wow1:
Rear end flexes just as well..stock shackle limits me..it bottoms out & won't swing any further. Hence the shackle relocator vs a big leaf pack. I'm around 2.5-3" now..never measured honestly. And want to end up 3" front, 3.25-3.5" rear. Ride is excellent..rears kinda stiff but I also have rs9000 adjustable shocks on the highest setting..so I think thats the cause! A 3" lift can be done correctly for around 300 bucks..if you add in control arms & brake lines then slightly more. Not shame in a good bastard pack..just build them right..clean & recoat..leaf sliders ect. I love my setup and it hasn't sagged out what so ever.
You can also use Rodeo leafs which have more arch & not as thick..so they won't ride as rough & will flex better...I have a OME 1" pack with a 2.5" RE full length AAL in mine. Looking to do shackle relocators next..up front is a OME 1" coil = v8 ZJ coil...same exact thing & a 2" spacer. Ditching my spacer for accos pretty soon!
Flex it amazing, I can bottom out the coil litterally. As in each coil together each other..I added 2 straps/coil retainers to keep the coil in place cause when its flexed out much it looks like its gonna go shooting somewhere :Wow1:
Rear end flexes just as well..stock shackle limits me..it bottoms out & won't swing any further. Hence the shackle relocator vs a big leaf pack. I'm around 2.5-3" now..never measured honestly. And want to end up 3" front, 3.25-3.5" rear. Ride is excellent..rears kinda stiff but I also have rs9000 adjustable shocks on the highest setting..so I think thats the cause! A 3" lift can be done correctly for around 300 bucks..if you add in control arms & brake lines then slightly more. Not shame in a good bastard pack..just build them right..clean & recoat..leaf sliders ect. I love my setup and it hasn't sagged out what so ever.
BuckeyeBullet
Observer
That's some good news, I was looking to do a 3" or so lift. More like 2.5" in front, 3" in back because I plan to have a RTT. ZJ's are all over the place in the yards here, I also know of some MJ's that I could get shackles from. What about MJ leaf springs? Are they any tougher than XJ?
In other news, I finished the engine tonight. All the parts are there and installed. Ready to fire up. I did have to make some hood spacers for now so that Spectre CAI will fit under the hood until I put a hood scoop on. I made them out of steel I had, but I'd make them out of aluminum if I did it again.
In other news, I finished the engine tonight. All the parts are there and installed. Ready to fire up. I did have to make some hood spacers for now so that Spectre CAI will fit under the hood until I put a hood scoop on. I made them out of steel I had, but I'd make them out of aluminum if I did it again.