Rebuilding an XJ 4.0--in Hemi Orange!

88Xj

Banned
Ok, an update. Besides what I'm talking about here, I'm making progress on the rear bumper but don't have any photos yet. I've been lucky finding some great bumper steel in the scrapyards around here for dirt cheap. I have less than $15 invested in the rear bumper so far...and I have nearly all the pieces I need including the store-bought 2" hitch receiver.

So the cam looks good, the lifters look good, compression is very good, and today I dropped the oil pan to get a look inside and try to eliminate that knock. I checked side clearance on all the rods and checked each rod bearing for clearance using plastigage and the factory manual for the specs. All the bearings were within the "preferred" spec in the book and well within allowable limits. They were all at .002" clearance which is fairly perfect (range .001-.003" with .015-.002 ideal on stock journal dia). The only issue I found, and it won't cause a knock, was the #1 rod bearing had a weird pitting going on. It wasn't deep at all, didn't even deform the plastigage less, but there are spots where the outer layer is gone and copper is showing. They're just spots though, not grooves or scrapes, 1mm across or less. Looks like that would cause premature wear so I'm going to replace that one, but that's the only problem. The oil pan showed only very minimal metal shavings which I'd consider normal for a freshly broken-in engine. Doesn't look like anything came apart. But there's still a knock in it from somewhere and I'm running out of things to check.

The bores looked great and I saw that the pistons still had their anti-wear coatings (on the skirts anyway). The remote oil filter hoses were dripping oil on my while I worked. They're new (from Trans-Dapt), only used once and the engine hasn't even run in a couple weeks, yet they were dripping from the swivel end. I ordered some AN fittings and hose to hopefully get rid of that whole issue. Anyone know if there's a good place in the block to drill for an oil pressure sending unit? I really don't like that the factory one only tells you if the oil pump is working, not if the engine is actually getting any oil pressure. Major weak spot, IMHO. My '60s Dodge V8 gets its oil pressure reading from the cam gallery which is much more useful.

BTW I had to drop the shocks, sway bar, spring retainers, and the lower control arms at the axle to get enough clearance to remove that oil pan. I also had to jack the axle away from the frame as far as the brake hose would allow, while turning the wheels all the way to the left so the front of the pan could clear the steering damper. Wasn't an easy job and I scratched up that fancy orange oil pan quite a bit :-/

Do you think the knock could be the torque converter bolts being slightly loose? Very very common & it sounds like a rod knock:)
 

BuckeyeBullet

Observer
Interesting idea, I never could find the torque spec for those bolts in the factory manual. Frustrated the heck out of me, and I don't remember what I tightened them to now. I did torque them but maybe only to 35-40lbs. Do you know what they're supposed to be?
 

88Xj

Banned
Interesting idea, I never could find the torque spec for those bolts in the factory manual. Frustrated the heck out of me, and I don't remember what I tightened them to now. I did torque them but maybe only to 35-40lbs. Do you know what they're supposed to be?



I'm not sure but I'll search. I would do a small tap of blue loctite as well..to keep em from backing out..but if you google it, its been a common occurance! Wish you have a video..would of saved you pull it all apart! Lets hope its those pesky *** bolts.
 

BuckeyeBullet

Observer
Well, it wasn't the torque converter bolts. I replaced the one rod bearing that had some babbitt issues even though it was still in spec (.002" clearance--what the fsm recommends). I also replaced the oil filter and the remote filter lines using AN hose. Don't have pics of that yet. I had some vintage aircraft hydraulic fittings that a friend had given me, and so far they are leak-free. I also made extra sure the block-to-firewall ground was clean and tight. When I started the Jeep again, no knock! The dash gauges were also happy and not doing crazy things, engine did not have a hesitation, and it ran really well. I think I had two things going on, a poor ground to the block, and that first oil filter I put on may have been damaged from the initial no-oil running. I would have liked a definite answer of what was causing the knock, but hey it's gone now. I put about 11mi on it since Monday night and I'm taking it to work tomorrow (60mi round trip).

I also started in earnest on the bumpers. I didn't get the front one done yet so I have the ugly stock one on there just to make it street legal for now. The rear is coming along nicely and is functional but not finished. Need to finish the ends, add some bracing, and add the hitch receiver and back-up light cut-outs. Yes it's rusty, it's a piece I found in the scrapyard for about 3 bucks. I built the mounts with gussets so they do not deflect, and welded them to the channel. Much easier to access the bolts than with the factory bumper brackets. The tapered ends I made by cutting some pie-slices out of the channel, bending it how I wanted, and welding the cuts back up. I can stand on it and bounce up and down and it's stable. I have a pair of Jeep front tow hooks and I'll probably bolt those to the bottoms of the bumper mounts. Cleaner and quieter than having D-rings dangling from the bumper, but probably not quite as strong. Whatever, it's a Jeep it won't get stuck right? ;-)

DSC07351fixsm30.jpg

DSC07356sm25.jpg

DSC07358sm30.jpg
 

Cool Joe

New member
Subscribed, as a fellow xj owner and just generally new to this whole thing (got my jeep on July 4 of this year, my first vehicle as I'm only eighteen) I could really use the knowledge, tips, and tricks. Eventually I'd like to just completely rebuild (but better) my 95.
 

BuckeyeBullet

Observer
one word of advice if you plan to use that as a recovery point or towing point you will want to tie into the same nutserts you used for the skid plate as well. The 4 bolts on each side mount are just nuts welded to the thin sheetmetal. They will rip and crack the the metal over time.

Good advice. I saved the trailer hitch (aftermarket) that came with this Jeep in case I wanted to use the steel to make frame tie-ins for that bumper I'm building. I do want to use it for recovery. I'm putting a trailer hitch into the bumper itself although I don't intend to tow with it (for bicycle rack, receiver winch mount, etc). Good to see hard evidence of what happens. At the very least I'll find some way to install the recovery hooks to the frame rather than to the bumper. The hitch receiver will have a plate on the back of it that I will bolt through that rear crossmember and the crossmember will be strengthened with a plate where the hitch will bolt through. The crossmember isn't very strong I know but every little bit helps. I was also planning to extend the skid up to the bumper. Weld to the existing skid and bolt to the underside of the bumper. That makes the skid and its frame mounts part of the assembly, and helps keep the hitch out of the gas tank in a collision.
 

BuckeyeBullet

Observer
Subscribed, as a fellow xj owner and just generally new to this whole thing (got my jeep on July 4 of this year, my first vehicle as I'm only eighteen) I could really use the knowledge, tips, and tricks. Eventually I'd like to just completely rebuild (but better) my 95.

Welcome Cool Joe! For really detailed tech advice on the engines, I'd look at the NAXJA forums. Those guys are gurus on the old 4.0 motors. I made some mistakes with my build since I was new to Jeeps in general--don't want that happening to you! These engines are tough and pretty forgiving as I'm learning too which is good. Best advice I can give is buy the factory service manual for your year Jeep. The '01s like mine have a 5-volume set--the "big book" and some supplemental diagnostic stuff. The big book is the important one! Study it before you even tear your engine down, you'll appreciate that you did. They aren't cheap but very worth the money (I got mine on ebay). Have fun with it!
 

Black Dog

Makin' Beer.
Cool Joe, you're starting with a good platform too. 95 was one of the best years for XJs. I've had a 95 and a 99, both excellent choices.
 

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