Refrigerator Advice Wanted , Please!

[4x4tripping]

There was a bit comparison of 12v Fridges at Expo / Overland Journal at 2011!

But I was not able to google it up.

Here is the old link: https://expeditionportal.com/resour...rland-journal-portable-12v-fridge-review.html

It was a great read and would be helpful today too!

 

[Ramdough]

Other brands are not immune to having their doors open. I've had the (latched) door of my Vitrifrigo swing open on a rough off-road trip and a 6-pack of beer fell out... Glass and beer everywhere, not pretty (and I was thirsty!).

I also own a Dometic CFX 95DZ chest fridge/freezer and use it a lot. It's a fantastic unit, very energy efficient!
I drew up several floorpans for the new camper that had a pair of chest fridge's under the lower bunk bed and/or under a hinged section of counter top. I was intrigued by the possibility of having 4 separately controlled temperature zones (two 2-zone chests). However I was unable to get my wife on board with the idea of having something that didn't look and feel like a residential fridge.

I think that I have finally settled on the Nova Kool RFU9200, which is the dual compressor version of their 9000.

-Mark

I plan to on have a couple of chest fridges on slides so that it is well secured and replaceable when one goes bad. Plus multiple zones ant a lower cost.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Herbie]

Same here. The door on my Isotherm in the FWC was quite chinsey and even locked it opened and spilled contents Offroad more than once.

I’ll definitely be going with either and top loader style, like my ARB fridges I’ve always had good luck with and are super efficient, or a pull out drawer style. I’m still undecided on which

Other brands are not immune to having their doors open. I've had the (latched) door of my Vitrifrigo swing open on a rough off-road trip and a 6-pack of beer fell out... Glass and beer everywhere, not pretty (and I was thirsty!).

Most front-loading RV fridge doors are setup to be reversible, which means there's already a provision on both ends of the door for a hinge pin. (And usually a corresponding hole in the mounting flange or frame.) A quick-release clevis pin down into this hole is guaranteed to keep the door closed.

If your fridge does not have the pre-drilled hole, a $3 mod from most RV stores will similarly cure your ills: https://www.rvplus.com/jr-products-universal-lock-pin-20705.html
Regular RVers have solved these problems years ago.

 

[Joe917]

The Nova Kool fridges come with a positive mechanical latch in addition to the door handle latch. You just have to remember to use it on rough roads.

 

[msiminoff]

Thanks for all the feedback.... I ordered the NovaKool RFU9200.

 

[charlesrg]

Wondering how do you like your Nova Kool ?
I've been considering Nova Kool, Isotherm and Vitrifrigo for my build.
Isotherm CR 195, Vitrifrigo DP 2600 or Nova Kool 9000 / 9200.

Nova Kool tech said the dual motor is for folks who want to keep a greater than 20 degrees (Farenheit) differential between fridge and freezer.
I'm wondering if I will need, my home fridge is set to 39 degree difference. 0F freezer, 39F refrigerator.

It would have been nice if they used a valve to diverge and it will allow dual thermostat just like the home models.

Here is a list of models that show which models have dual compressor that I found from Isotherm website:

 

[BeNimble]

I built a custom refrigerator for my 'tiny house' trailer. I'm working on another even smaller one. It was an absolute requirement that I have an ice maker.
Most of the 2015+ domestic fridges use inverter permanent magnet compressors that are way more efficient than the older inductive single speed compressors that have huge startup draws. The Samsung I modified uses a slow startup and gets efficiency by slowing down but not stopping.
They can also be run on cheap square wave inverters, my fridge can run on a $25 300-watt inverter with a minor modification.
I also suggest moving the compressor and condensor coils to the outside of the living space, just like a mini-split AC, so the heat is pumped outside the cabin, which is more important for an ice maker that runs often vs a fridge that mostly just maintains temperature.
I narrowed this one to 24in from the normal 36in. Many RVs can't even get the full size fridges through the doors.

 

[DiploStrat]

Anecdotes are worth what you pay for them, but I had a Nova Kool on my Tiger - worked perfectly for years.

Two door Norcold on my XP - repaired multiple times, replaced, failed again.

Now have a two door Nova Kool - working perfectly for a year or so.

Caveat emptor, YMMV, etc.

 

[ExpoMike]

As I stated in a previous post, I had great luck with my NovaKool and am awaiting delivery of my new one for my current build. Should be here in the next couple weeks.

 

[charlesrg]

I'm wondering if anyone is using a Dometic DMC4101. It has a single compressor but dual temperature zones. Additionally auto defrost gets turned on in performance mode.
It shines with great price and large size.
From the Dometic website the compressor Wancool ACV35DC seems to be 24V compatible.

 

[john61ct]

please don't double post

Dometic DMC4101 10 C.f. Refrigerator

Anybody out there using a Dometic DMC4101 ? I'm very curious if anyone got it to run on 24V DC. From the Dometic website the compressor seems to be an Wancool ACV35DC which is 24V DC capable. This fridge besides being cheaper it's larger, features independent temperature control for fridge...

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