Removing Hitch Play?

[CYi5]

So I finally took the plunge and purchased a new max coupler for the offroad teardrop. There is a large amount of play where it bolts into my trailer tongue. What is the most common solution to removing the play?

A) Wrap coupler with duct tape to fill void.
B) Drill and tap top and side of tongue to insert bolts to crank down on max coupler.
C) Add an anti-rattle hitch pin
D) Add something like the StowAway:

Figuring with all the movement, the anti-rattle hitch pin may have difficulty staying tight..Those of you with offroad trailers and receivers, how are you keeping them quiet on the trail?

Thanks!

 

[RagnarD]

I have a sloppy fitting pintle and have just gotten used to the noise to the point I don't even notice it.

Duct tape will not work.

Are you trying to sneek up on something?

 

[CYi5]

I have a sloppy fitting pintle and have just gotten used to the noise to the point I don't even notice it.

Duct tape will not work.

Are you trying to sneek up on something?

lol, didn't have any intentions of being super stealth. One of the benefits of going with the max coupler is the tighter tolerances over using a pintle. Sort of defeats the purpose of having a smooth working coupler when both ends are loose.

 

[RagnarD]

You could always run a few beads then grind down until it fits snugly in receiver.

 

[rnArmy]

Underneath the tongue on the trailer, between the front opening and the hitch pin, drill a hole, weld a nut, and run a bolt UP to snug it. It wants to pivot that way anyways, so now you're just pinning it into place. If you want to put a bolt from the top (on the trailer's receiver hitch), put it behind the hitch pin (between the hitch pin and trailer tub). I put the one bolt underneath on the trailer tongue and it made it quiet.

On the vehicle's trailer hitch, you would want to drill a hole on the top between the opening and hitch pin (and weld a nut, and run a bolt down), and/or drill a hole on the underside of the 2" receiver on the other side of the hitch pin (closer to the engine) and do the nut weld and run a bolt up to pin it into place.

If you think about it with the trailer connected and the tongue weight, it'll make sense which way the hitches want to pivot or rock on the hitch pin. All you want to do it weld the nut and run the bolt to keep it where it (the two parts of the hitch) wants to rest naturally.

 

[loudboy]

I coated mine in plasti-dip until it was thick enough to take up most of the excess space and deaden the noise. Works like a charm and has held up great over 5 years of constant use.

 

[highlandercj-7]

I like the bolt idea best, though I have done as mentioned too and run a bead of weld or two in the receiver and grind it to fit snug.

 

[WeeJeep2]

Draw-tite makes a J-hook type with lock included. It requires an extra small hole on the side of the receiver to work. I bought a pair keyed the same, one for the trailer and one for the tow vehicle. No complaints after 8 years of use.

//http://www.draw-tite.com/products/hitch-accessories/stabilizing-pins/UUpS26F6M9ncoAxzcdoo5WH84Didvnl6

 

[JHa6av8r]

I use a Hitch-Vise Anti-Rattle Clamp. If you want to stop movement and noise in your hitch there's nothing better IMO.

http://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm

 

[XJCamper]

You could always run a few beads then grind down until it fits snugly in receiver.[
This is the easiest solution. Run a line. on two sides. Grind both a little and try the fit. Repeat grinding a little more each time until it fits snug. Works great.

 

[Scoutman]

Choice B. I have done this to just about every hitch I have it just flat works. I keep a wrench in the door pocket anyway so all it takes is a few quick turns, remove the locking pin, and remove. Stays super tight, doesn't cost much more than a bolt and a few minutes to tap the receiver tube. I typically use 1/2" bolts and just tap the tube, I haven't had the need to weld a nut on the side yet.

 

[bluejeep]

So I finally took the plunge and purchased a new max coupler for the offroad teardrop. There is a large amount of play where it bolts into my trailer tongue. What is the most common solution to removing the play?

A) Wrap coupler with duct tape to fill void.
B) Drill and tap top and side of tongue to insert bolts to crank down on max coupler.
C) Add an anti-rattle hitch pin
D) Add something like the StowAway:

Figuring with all the movement, the anti-rattle hitch pin may have difficulty staying tight..Those of you with offroad trailers and receivers, how are you keeping them quiet on the trail?

Thanks!

I have the DIY version of the StowAway. Looking at the pic, flip it upside down, angle the u-bolt so the round cross portion of the u-bolt fits in the elbow made by the end lip of the receiver and the receiver body, use the std cross bar for the u-bolt (or 2 of them) across the top of the bar inserted into the receiver, use 2 knobs or even wing nuts to tighten. My setup has been good for over 7 years now.

 

[jhill15]

So I finally took the plunge and purchased a new max coupler for the offroad teardrop. There is a large amount of play where it bolts into my trailer tongue. What is the most common solution to removing the play?

A) Wrap coupler with duct tape to fill void.
B) Drill and tap top and side of tongue to insert bolts to crank down on max coupler.
C) Add an anti-rattle hitch pin
D) Add something like the StowAway:

Figuring with all the movement, the anti-rattle hitch pin may have difficulty staying tight..Those of you with offroad trailers and receivers, how are you keeping them quiet on the trail?

Thanks!

Do you have a link for that coupler?

Thanks man!

 

[SWITAWI]

I use a Hitch-Vise Anti-Rattle Clamp. If you want to stop movement and noise in your hitch there's nothing better IMO.

http://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm

x2 on the Hitch-Vise. Works great on my cargo platform as well. No clunking at all.

 

[CYi5]

Do you have a link for that coupler?

Thanks man!

I got mine from www.Knightoffroadtrailers.com but you can also get them through Adventure Trailers, one of the forum sponsors.