removing running boards

JCH4

Observer
Anyone ever removed the running boards on a G500? I would like to remove mine this weekend. What does this entail and will there be holes that need to be covered or plugged?
 

RBA

Adventurer
It's pretty straight forward just a bit of a pain. There are three braces under each running board and each brace has two bolts. It's tight underneath and you'll need to pull back some of the heat shields. There is also a screw on each end connecting to the fenderflares.
 

otiswesty

Regular guy
This is one of the first things I did after buying my G500.

For the bolts under the rocker, as mentioned, the clearances are pretty tight between the exhaust heat shield and the hardware. It is pretty doable but also a bit frustrating. If you are a beer drinker I would recommend having one before you start the job.

The screws that hold the end caps to the fenderflares require that you open the adjacent fender liner to access the non-captive nut on the inside of the fender flare. The bilateral side step removal can be done in about an hour.

Be aware that after removing the side steps the exhaust will be readily visible on a side view of the truck, and is not particulaly attractive. If you are married, expect a comment from the wife on how the truck looked better with the side steps on.
This is a good job to combine with installation of a rocker protection rail like that sold by G-wagenaccessories or the MB factory rocker. They will both hide and protect the exhaust. Your side steps if undamaged should fetch about $350, so that can defer the cost of the slider rail significantly.
 

Fernweh

Supporting Sponsor
It's pretty straight forward just a bit of a pain. There are three braces under each running board and each brace has two bolts. It's tight underneath and you'll need to pull back some of the heat shields. There is also a screw on each end connecting to the fenderflares.

The best way of taking out those M10 bolts - is using a flat ratchet wrench. The original Mercedes M10 have a 15mm hex head instead of the standard 17mm one. The heat shields are made from soft aluminum and are easily bend out of the way.

4822056.jpg


If you like to hide/protect the unsightly but expensive exhaust systems

4822057.jpg


please have a look at: http://www.g-wagenaccessories.com/index_files/Page1005.htm

and/or contact me at karl@g-wagenaccessories.com
 

JCH4

Observer
Other than the unsightly exhaust system is there anything else I need to know? Do I need to screw in the end of the fender flares or anything along those lines? Advice much appreciated.
 

Fernweh

Supporting Sponsor
Other than the unsightly exhaust system is there anything else I need to know? Do I need to screw in the end of the fender flares or anything along those lines? Advice much appreciated.

You need to remove all four plastic wheel well liners, in order to get to the screws which are connecting the running boards plastic end caps to the fender flares.

The wheel well liners can be removed/installed without taking off the wheels.

If you are not using the M10 mounting holes for a rock slider or similar. I would suggest to cap off those threaded hole using a plastic insert or just re-using the M10 bolts you just took out.
 

JCH4

Observer
Thanks for the help. Took a little more than an hour but I was trying not to bash up heat shields too much. I see some rock meister guards in the future. Thanks again for the help. Sans metal spare tire cover and running boards is a great improvement.
 
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osi4

New member
Just finished doing this on my 2010. 16mm bolts on mine.. /shrug

Yeah... the side exhaust is a little more noticeable that I thought it would be... anyone have some sliders in SoCal? :ylsmoke:
 

otiswesty

Regular guy
Fernweh that posted above is just up the road from you in LA. I would recommend looking on his link and shooting him an email. I think his rock sliders are an improved design over the MB version which can hook things like barbed wire or branches.
 

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