Removing the factory running boards on an LR3

So I've done some looking around but I have not seen a thread based on the removal of the running boards for an LR3. I decided to remove mine today after going on a trip to Crown King here in Arizona up the back way which can be somewhat of a difficult trail if you pick the right spots. The process was relatively easy but is a little time consuming. There was only 1 section of the trail where I could not drive up due to my running boards causing me to high center on a rock ledge and so I had to take a bypass route. This was particularly embarrassing due to the fact that my brother had just completed the obstacle in his FJ Cruiser and so I didn't want him to show me up lol. Oh well, overall that was the only time I got hung up. The rest of the trail was full of good sized obstacles but I never bottomed out once. The LR3 is a great machine. Okay, on to the removal! You will need a socket wrench with a 10mm, and 1/2in sockets. You will also want to use a small pry bar or some sort of trim removal tool and a phillips head screwdriver.

So the first thing I did was remove the steps on one side of the truck and let that be sort of the trial and error part. Learning from the first side, I decided to jack up the truck in the rear and remove the rear tire, this makes it much easier to remove the two phillips screw just in front of the rear tire.

Step 2. Underneath the running board, there are a total of 6 bolts in these spots. The bolts are 10mm in size. Remove the 6 bolts. (These hold the actual step to the steel brackets) IMG_3889.jpg

Step 3. with the bolts removed, simply lift up the step and pull it out and set it off to the side. This is the easiest part of the job!
IMG_3892.jpg

Step 4. Remove the two phillips head screws at the rear wheel well that hold the plastic trim to the well.

Step 5. Remove the phillips screw at the front of the rocker panel just to the rear of the front tire.
IMG_3893.jpg

Step 6. Using the pry tool, there are 3 plastic inserts that need to be removed from the plastic. 1 at the front, middle and rear.
IMG_3894.jpg

Step 7. Using the half inch socket, remove the exposed bolts holding the steel bracket to the truck.
IMG_3895.jpg

Step 8. At this point, you can either remove the plastic panel from the truck or leave it on as you remove the steel brackets. (There are bolts underneath the black plastic that also hold the brackets to the truck. with the plastic out of the way, remove all remaining bolts with the 1/2 inch socket. At this point all steel brackets can be removed and out of the way.
IMG_3898.jpg
IMG_3900.jpg

Step 9. Now that the brackets have been removed, line up the plastic panel with the yellow pop in tabs on the truck. I started from the rear of the truck and just worked my way forward.
IMG_3902.jpg

Step 10. I think it is optional but I did put all of the half inch bolts back into their slots even though they don't secure anything. However, once the plastic is back on, There are a couple of the half inch bolts that do hold the plastic to the truck, make sure these bolts are put back in. Re-insert the black plastic inserts into their slots, they also hold the plastic to the truck. Last, put all of the phillips head screws back into there spots. All done!!
IMG_3904.jpg

Hope this post helps anyone who was looking for a breakdown of what this process involves. All in all it took a few hours messing with everything. Enjoy
 

eloist

Adventurer
I want to lift ours, but it won't fit in the garage if I do it...

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
 

jaamrode

New member
Get a IID tool from GAP Diagnostics. Lift when your on the trail standard heights all other times plus it does so much more in diagnosing faults.
 
I want to lift ours, but it won't fit in the garage if I do it...

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

Yeah you could go for the GAP Diagnostics IID tool, that way you can set the lift once you've left the garage. I like the look of always being lifted though. I don't get to park in a garage lol. IID tool runs about $400 though. Rods run about $130-190 depending on what company you purchase from.
 
Get a IID tool from GAP Diagnostics. Lift when your on the trail standard heights all other times plus it does so much more in diagnosing faults.

Yeah I do like the IID tool but I like being lifted all the time I think it makes the truck look way better. Plus I just replaced both front air struts with Arnott struts which are awesome and just replaced the compressor so I should be good until I get rid of the rig (hopefully) lol
 

eloist

Adventurer
Yeah I recently upgraded my compressor to an amk version, but that seems like a lot of use to air it out every time I pull into the garage. I donno...

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
 
Yeah I recently upgraded my compressor to an amk version, but that seems like a lot of use to air it out every time I pull into the garage. I donno...

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

Nah you don't air it out, you can save a pre-set height setting on the IID tool so whenever you go off road you can just select the off road setting and raise up
 

Bama4door

Observer
Yeah you could go for the GAP Diagnostics IID tool, that way you can set the lift once you've left the garage. I like the look of always being lifted though. I don't get to park in a garage lol. IID tool runs about $400 though. Rods run about $130-190 depending on what company you purchase from.

There's no need to waste $150 on rods, when you can make them for $5...take off the stock boots and cut a piece of 1/4" threaded rod to appropriate length and then but stock boots on new rod.
 
There's no need to waste $150 on rods, when you can make them for $5...take off the stock boots and cut a piece of 1/4" threaded rod to appropriate length and then but stock boots on new rod.


Unfortunately I'm not that creative lol and plus it was hard to get the factory rods off I tore two of them and I had them lubed up
 

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