Restomod to Rock Crawler with Timbren Axles

[Shapeshifter]

I want the wires protected from the trail so I planned the wire route ahead of time and pre-drilled the frame in strategic spots. I used grubber grommets on all through holes and I did use split-loom on any uncovered wires. I have never had a problem with split-loom if it is not exposed to sun and these short runs will never see daylight, unless something goes terribly wrong on the trail.....

 

[Shapeshifter]

^ A good idea for storing your cable/teathering it out of the way offroad is to take a female plug, cut it so you have just the plug left, and screw it to your trailer tongue so that the harness just reaches it and voila, you plug it in to that and it keeps it from dragging around while in the rocks. Just something we did on some of the utility trailers we built.

If I understand what your saying it's like the reverse of having a rigid plug on the tow vehicle? Maybe I don't get it....

 

[Shapeshifter]

I had planned on using these Jeep taillights wich would look really cool. Unfortunately, they stick out way too far and will be vulnerable to trees and rocks and moose and stoners, etc.

 

[thethePete]

I don't think so?

I'll try to describe it a bit better;

If you take the trailer plug wire, and run it backwards down the length of the tongue towards the trailer (lay it on top of the tongue); it should stop some way back say- 2 feet. Take the plug end that would normally be on the truck, and screw it down to the top of the tongue where the plug wire runs to. You get to the trail/rocks, unplug it and run it back along the top of the tongue and plug it into the dummy plug.

If you're only running a 4-pin connector, there's no real need for it to be plugged in beyond the lights. We used to hook our trailer to the back of the 4wheeler to pull it down the last bit of trail to the camp, obviously you can't plug the wire into a 4 wheeler, so we came up with that to keep it out of the way and not dangling, or wrapped around the tongue. Just a suggestion, since it sounds like you'll be hauling it through some serious business.

 

[Shapeshifter]

I have some cages for the lights but they stick out even more. If I ********** them on a rock it will do more damage to the trailer body than to the light. If I use the jeep lights I would rather sacrifice one of them to the trail than twist up my tub body....

 

[thethePete]

^ Plenty of low-pro LED options out there. Grote makes some good, replacable stuff, a little pricey, but there's a reason everyone uses them.

 

[Shapeshifter]

I don't think so?

I'll try to describe it a bit better;

If you take the trailer plug wire, and run it backwards down the length of the tongue towards the trailer (lay it on top of the tongue); it should stop some way back say- 2 feet. Take the plug end that would normally be on the truck, and screw it down to the top of the tongue where the plug wire runs to. You get to the trail/rocks, unplug it and run it back along the top of the tongue and plug it into the dummy plug.

If you're only running a 4-pin connector, there's no real need for it to be plugged in beyond the lights. We used to hook our trailer to the back of the 4wheeler to pull it down the last bit of trail to the camp, obviously you can't plug the wire into a 4 wheeler, so we came up with that to keep it out of the way and not dangling, or wrapped around the tongue. Just a suggestion, since it sounds like you'll be hauling it through some serious business.

I see, you are talking about a way to store the cable if not used. In California, we even have traffic jams on the Rubicon trail, so I will need my brake lights when off road. Good storage idea though.

^ Plenty of low-pro LED options out there. Grote makes some good, replacable stuff, a little pricey, but there's a reason everyone uses them.

Yeah, I know there are lots of light options out there but I already had these jeep lights sitting around and I was trying to not spend any more money on the little trailer. But I gotta make it right the first time so a tail light shopping I go...

 

[thethePete]

I can't fathom escaping to the wilderness where there are so many people there is legitimate traffic on the trail. That kinda sucks.

Maybe surf the jeep forums and see if someone has a set of LED tails up for cheap? You could keep the look and go low-profile, and save a buck by buying used...

I scored an Explorer axle for $100 with springs for my truck, the springs aren't completely trashed, so under my truck they go. I feel ya on the saving a buck where you can.

 

[Mtnbkrmatt]

Long time lurker, first time poster. :wavey:

Maybe mount the taillight so the lense is on the back of the plate, and the body is on the front of the plate. You'd have to cut a big ol hole, and probably need longer screws.

 

[Shapeshifter]

Long time lurker, first time poster. :wavey:

Maybe mount the taillight so the lense is on the back of the plate, and the body is on the front of the plate. You'd have to cut a big ol hole, and probably need longer screws.

Hey thanks for thew input!

Since I have access to a plasma cutter I actually thought of that but I chose against it. The "flange" area made for the light would still be subject to deforming and squarshing any light cut in to it.

I found some really small and low profile surface mount LEDs that I am going to use. These will be perfect for my application.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141282539281?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Shapeshifter]

I got the tub all primed and painted. The paint color I chose is a little bit lighter than I hoped but this will have to do. I still have the metal lid to paint also which I might do in gloss white.

 

[RagnarD]

Nice build. Welds look good as well. Those zip ties that hold the wires to the frame will break. Its worth the time and money to use cable clamps with bolts/self tapping screws.

Even if I only need 4 pins, I wire my trailers with heavy duty jacketed 7 strand cable with a 7 pin connector simply because the cable/connectors are more durable.

 

[003suns]

Thanks. Now the paint process. I suck at painting.

Cool resto! What are you priming & painting the trailer with? Just the Rust Stop?

 

[Shapeshifter]

Cool resto! What are you priming & painting the trailer with? Just the Rust Stop?

Thanks.

Before paint, I wiped it all down with acetone, then hit it with 80grit orbital sander and/or a sanding block. I spent minimal time getting the surfaces filled and leveled with a Rustoleum filler/primer. My goal is just to clean it up and seal it. Then I used the Ace brand for the "Almond" color which flowed on really well.

I wish I used a darker tan but I want to get the trailer rigged, then I will look in to painting again. Its not a large trailer so it can be covered with 4 cans, and the Almond color on there is flat (supposed to be satin?) so a new coat will go on easy. Still not completely sure of color.... suggestions?

-

I had some 1/8" marine grade mahogany plywood left over from my boat restoration days. I will seal it with Smiths epoxy and use it as a bed liner. It's nice and thin and light wont take up much of the little cargo space there is.

 

[Shapeshifter]

Nice build. Welds look good as well. Those zip ties that hold the wires to the frame will break. Its worth the time and money to use cable clamps with bolts/self tapping screws.

Even if I only need 4 pins, I wire my trailers with heavy duty jacketed 7 strand cable with a 7 pin connector simply because the cable/connectors are more durable.

Thanks. Your advice is well taken.

The zipties will never break on their own but the two in the middle will likely get cut on rocks. I'll be clamping them with nylon cable clamps.