Revcon Trailblazer "Watering Hole"

[Boosted1]

THAT is some serious mobile solar acreage. What kind of power storage do you carry? Model # of the split AC? Looks like a cool solution!

We enjoy having plenty of power while boondocking. Its a 24volt battery bank as currently configured, a little over 400Ah worth (800 at 12 volt equivalent), with 6 lithium batteries. The mini split is a pioneer 12k unit, runs on 120VAC and has a super efficient SEER rating of 21.5.

Given that our units were built so close and likely in a similar way, I have so many things that I would love to pick your brain on!

 

[Boosted1]

THAT is some serious mobile solar acreage. What kind of power storage do you carry? Model # of the split AC? Looks like a cool solution!

We enjoy having plenty of power while boondocking. Its a 24volt battery bank as currently configured, a little over 400Ah worth (800 at 12 volt equivalent), with 6 lithium batteries. The mini split is a pioneer 12k unit, runs on 120VAC and has a super efficient SEER rating of 21.5.

Given that our units were built so close and likely in a similar way, I have so many things that I would love to pick your brain on!

 

[Boosted1]

Hey everyone! Would like to help us owners connect a bit easier, so I started a facebook group here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/3044030639255925

 

[Hellwinger]

Apologies, Boosted1, have not checked in in a while. Happy to answer whatever questions I can.

 

[Boosted1]

Apologies, Boosted1, have not checked in in a while. Happy to answer whatever questions I can.

Thanks Hellwinger! My most pressing issue I am working through right now is the braking system. I am giving it an overhaul, and now have rebuilt the front set of 4 and the rear ABS module. Breaking force has improved, but still dealing with a softish pedal. This has me leaning towards the rear booster system that appears to be all original.

Have you done any work on that? Wondering wear I should start with the troubleshooting as it's custom I am not familiar with it and can't find squat online.

 

[Hellwinger]

Fixing my brakes was an ongoing and most aggravating thing!

All sorts of redneck engineering I had to undo. And OEM engineering I had to understand and try to improve upon. This vehicle is being operated way out of its specified design parameters. Constantly. Remember that.

I tried all sorts of things! It was not until I dropped the front tank to fix a leak in the sender gasket (the tops of both tanks are not flat at all) that I found the flex line hidden in the frame that they extended the factory hard line with when the frame was extended by two feet between the factory axles. While you are there, take a close look at the weldments. DO NOT TRUST the original workmanship.

I replaced with all hardline. Replaced the flex line to the axles with new stainless braid. Removed the SSBC proportioning adjustment regulator that Revcon put on the front brakes and removed the factory brake proportioning valve on the master cylinder. Replaced the proportion function with Speedway adjustable proportioning valves mounted in the back. The purple ones.

Kept the RABS but did drill a hole in the reservoir cap and have a little copper wire key I can test the piston position with. I have also installed a switch that makes pulling RABS codes easier. Make sure the wiring to all that is solid. It is not tolerant of iffy connections.

Also a replaced the factory master cylinder with a larger bore master cylinder that is a plug-and-play. I think I found it at NAPA. I also have a 100 PSI metering valve (Speedway 910-31363) on the front and those purple adjustable brake proportioning valves on the back - one for the middle axle and one for the tag brake system amplifier signal.

Before that I also cleaned and repaired the hydraulic amplifier (be sure to bleed that, too) on the rear tag axle system with a $1.50 O-ring. Also treated the diaphragm with silicone. Made sure all the (on my rig, Revcon used copper) engine vacuum lines to the rear master cylinder drum are good. Vacuum line for that long run needs to be a large diameter bore for peak flow demands and fast braking response.

Have also bled everything to death thinking the bake softness was trapped air - it's the aging flex line behind the gas tank!!

I also now run graphite pads on the front cylinders and have vented stainless front disks. MUCH better!

Still drums and shoes on the back. I have the rear proportioning regulators actually set to minimum like they are not there. When I take the Phoenix out for bake testing, all of the drums get equally hot and it stops within a reasonable distance, for seven tons of fun. You may want to test on dirt to make sure the tag does not lock up during panic braking. Make sure the airbag system is inflated to your preferred ride height. The weight balance between the two rear axles is very sensitive to air bag pressure.

Oh and speaking of tag axle, mine was bent enough to make the rear wheels camber out, because the trailing-arm support is so far inboard from wheel center on such light trailer tube axle. It was shaped like a smile. Had to use jacks and blocks putting all weight on on the axle center, taking all the rear wheels off and jumping up-and-down on the back porch until it bent back straight. Lucky it did not buckle. Then reinforcing the whole shebang with steel U-channel and U-bolts.

And make sure the shocks on the tag are in good shape. Also lube the diagonal cross-brace with penetrating lithium grease. I have replaced the bags and the rubber trailing-arm bearing blocks. Makes a big difference. The whole tag system is over-engineered and under-engineered, so mind signs of wear that may indicate attention is needed.

While you are there, look for pinhole leaks in the bottom of the rear fuel tank. Wet spots in the dust. Comes from water in the fuel just sitting there. I had to take mine out and coat the interior with urethane to fix it. That was fun rotating that beast. Took weeks for the urethane to dry but it's tight now. I also use Marvel Mystery Oil and ethanol in the gas for storage.

On the road, I have found that making sure old gas gets used up out of both tanks is key. Have also had to make sure the fuel tank venting system works properly. Gas vapor smell at the campsite all night is no fun. Don't overfill - it will leak out of the fuel level senders unless they are sealed tight. And beware, the gas filler necks on the outside are installed up-side down! Does not play well with with pump shutoff nozzles.

Oh and if you want to use your rig in freezing weather, either empty all tanks and lines overnight (need to add drain valves in the water distribution lines for this). Look at what it would take to put a heater pad under the grey tank if you tear into that. I have not done it - I just drain. Not being able to use the toilet the morning is a bummer.

I could go on and on!

Goodnight and good luck, Booster1!

- Hellwinger

 

[Hellwinger]

https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=9132.0

The link above deals with the tag axle brake system found on the Revcon Trailblazer. The U-cup seal is what I replaced.

 

[Boosted1]

Fixing my brakes was an ongoing and most aggravating thing!

All sorts of redneck engineering I had to undo. And OEM engineering I had to understand and try to improve upon. This vehicle is being operated way out of its specified design parameters. Constantly. Remember that.

I tried all sorts of things! It was not until I dropped the front tank to fix a leak in the sender gasket (the tops of both tanks are not flat at all) that I found the flex line hidden in the frame that they extended the factory hard line with when the frame was extended by two feet between the factory axles. While you are there, take a close look at the weldments. DO NOT TRUST the original workmanship.

I replaced with all hardline. Replaced the flex line to the axles with new stainless braid. Removed the SSBC proportioning adjustment regulator that Revcon put on the front brakes and removed the factory brake proportioning valve on the master cylinder. Replaced the proportion function with Speedway adjustable proportioning valves mounted in the back. The purple ones.

Kept the RABS but did drill a hole in the reservoir cap and have a little copper wire key I can test the piston position with. I have also installed a switch that makes pulling RABS codes easier. Make sure the wiring to all that is solid. It is not tolerant of iffy connections.

Also a replaced the factory master cylinder with a larger bore master cylinder that is a plug-and-play. I think I found it at NAPA. I also have a 100 PSI metering valve (Speedway 910-31363) on the front and those purple adjustable brake proportioning valves on the back - one for the middle axle and one for the tag brake system amplifier signal.

Before that I also cleaned and repaired the hydraulic amplifier (be sure to bleed that, too) on the rear tag axle system with a $1.50 O-ring. Also treated the diaphragm with silicone. Made sure all the (on my rig, Revcon used copper) engine vacuum lines to the rear master cylinder drum are good. Vacuum line for that long run needs to be a large diameter bore for peak flow demands and fast braking response.

Have also bled everything to death thinking the bake softness was trapped air - it's the aging flex line behind the gas tank!!

I also now run graphite pads on the front cylinders and have vented stainless front disks. MUCH better!

Still drums and shoes on the back. I have the rear proportioning regulators actually set to minimum like they are not there. When I take the Phoenix out for bake testing, all of the drums get equally hot and it stops within a reasonable distance, for seven tons of fun. You may want to test on dirt to make sure the tag does not lock up during panic braking. Make sure the airbag system is inflated to your preferred ride height. The weight balance between the two rear axles is very sensitive to air bag pressure.

Oh and speaking of tag axle, mine was bent enough to make the rear wheels camber out, because the trailing-arm support is so far inboard from wheel center on such light trailer tube axle. It was shaped like a smile. Had to use jacks and blocks putting all weight on on the axle center, taking all the rear wheels off and jumping up-and-down on the back porch until it bent back straight. Lucky it did not buckle. Then reinforcing the whole shebang with steel U-channel and U-bolts.

And make sure the shocks on the tag are in good shape. Also lube the diagonal cross-brace with penetrating lithium grease. I have replaced the bags and the rubber trailing-arm bearing blocks. Makes a big difference. The whole tag system is over-engineered and under-engineered, so mind signs of wear that may indicate attention is needed.

While you are there, look for pinhole leaks in the bottom of the rear fuel tank. Wet spots in the dust. Comes from water in the fuel just sitting there. I had to take mine out and coat the interior with urethane to fix it. That was fun rotating that beast. Took weeks for the urethane to dry but it's tight now. I also use Marvel Mystery Oil and ethanol in the gas for storage.

On the road, I have found that making sure old gas gets used up out of both tanks is key. Have also had to make sure the fuel tank venting system works properly. Gas vapor smell at the campsite all night is no fun. Don't overfill - it will leak out of the fuel level senders unless they are sealed tight. And beware, the gas filler necks on the outside are installed up-side down! Does not play well with with pump shutoff nozzles.

Oh and if you want to use your rig in freezing weather, either empty all tanks and lines overnight (need to add drain valves in the water distribution lines for this). Look at what it would take to put a heater pad under the grey tank if you tear into that. I have not done it - I just drain. Not being able to use the toilet the morning is a bummer.

I could go on and on!

Goodnight and good luck, Booster1!

- Hellwinger

Thank you so much for the extremely detailed reply. After much deliberation and accepting the fact that this was going to be more than I currently want to chew with the rear tag axle, I have abandoned the rear system in place and converted the rear axle to RV electric brakes for the time being. As I dont tow anything with electric brakes and it has controller already installed it was pretty darn simple to get this up and running. Your insights on the suspension I need to dig into a bit more . Thank you again for taking the time to provide so much detail! Also regarding gas vapors in the cabin, I did have issues with that and replacing both the filler and vent lines that were dry rotted appears to have resolved things.

 

[Hellwinger]

Booster1,

Am very interested in how the electric brake system works. The pneumatic/hydraulic system seems like a lot of rigamarole to me. But it works.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Unless you are into recreational engineering...

Is the electric system able to provide proportional braking? How does it know what the main braking pressure is? Got a manufacturer / part number?

At times I have been tempted to rebuild the middle axle with disk brakes and replace the rear axle with a junkyard F-350 axle with disks - a castering front axle would be cool, a de-geared differential rear axle would work.

Every time I crawl under there, the redneck-engineered tag axle cross-link stands out. Screaming to be replaced with a ball-jointed multilink arrangement. If you think about it, as the tag axle moves up and down, it sweeps out about a 3' radius curve determined by the trailing arms. The cross-link has flat plate hinge points with thru-bolts (metal-on-metal, no grommets) and sweeps in an intersecting plane. It does not seem to have enough degrees of freedom to track the axle. Well, it must have some slop somewhere, and it hasn't broken yet, so there you are. I just keep it lubed.

From the fifth entry, first page of this stub:

One of the first things that had to be rebuilt (during a road trip, in a Walmart parking lot), was the gasoline filler necks. As is, they leaked gas fumes into the coach. Note that the fill hoses for the gas tanks cut a corner through the interior coach volume. It is very important all of the relevant seals work 100% . As a backup, I have also built a box around each and filled it with urethane expando-foam. Also, the volume of the isolating box is best vented to the outside, but be sure to use a screen for critters and wasps.

Bon chance!

- Hellwinger

 

[Hellwinger]

Here's some photos from a Phoenix adventure to Cerro Gordo in 2018. At that time, there was a caretaker who would give a tour for $20. And everything was all there, preserved for 100 years. Now I hear it was sold (subdivided) and that there was a fire. : - (

 

[Boosted1]

Booster1,

Am very interested in how the electric brake system works. The pneumatic/hydraulic system seems like a lot of rigamarole to me. But it works.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Unless you are into recreational engineering...

Is the electric system able to provide proportional braking? How does it know what the main braking pressure is? Got a manufacturer / part number?

At times I have been tempted to rebuild the middle axle with disk brakes and replace the rear axle with a junkyard F-350 axle with disks - a castering front axle would be cool, a de-geared differential rear axle would work.

Every time I crawl under there, the redneck-engineered tag axle cross-link stands out. Screaming to be replaced with a ball-jointed multilink arrangement. If you think about it, as the tag axle moves up and down, it sweeps out about a 3' radius curve determined by the trailing arms. The cross-link has flat plate hinge points with thru-bolts (metal-on-metal, no grommets) and sweeps in an intersecting plane. It does not seem to have enough degrees of freedom to track the axle. Well, it must have some slop somewhere, and it hasn't broken yet, so there you are. I just keep it lubed.

From the fifth entry, first page of this stub:

One of the first things that had to be rebuilt (during a road trip, in a Walmart parking lot), was the gasoline filler necks. As is, they leaked gas fumes into the coach. Note that the fill hoses for the gas tanks cut a corner through the interior coach volume. It is very important all of the relevant seals work 100% . As a backup, I have also built a box around each and filled it with urethane expando-foam. Also, the volume of the isolating box is best vented to the outside, but be sure to use a screen for critters and wasps.

Bon chance!

- Hellwinger

Turns out I am an engineer, so a little head scratching is OK sometimes! The tag axle was replaced before I purchased the Revcon with a Dexter D60 trailer/RV axle. It was very easy to find the electric brake hub assemblies for the axle locally. I then wired that axle into the trailer towing proportional brake controller. The jeep I tow has its own proportional system that is activated off the brake lights and as such the tow controller was just sitting dormant/unused in the Revcon. So far my only complaint is that you can hear the magnets release the brake shoes when you let off the brakes and the windows are down (first world problems). I wasn't able to fine a drum to disc conversion kit for the rear drive axle, definitely something I would be interested in! For now the upgraded pads, calipers, and rotors with a all new drum bakes seems to be doing the trick!

Regarding the flat plate hinge on the tag axle, I see what you mean, definitely have noticed the metal on metal, but I don't see any easy solution to that one.

 

[Hellwinger]

Hi Booster1,

We don't tow a Jeep. If we did, we might not be tempted to take some of the degenerate trails we have and get stuck! The receiver hitch acts like a plow on some creek crossings, so I unbolted it.

If the brakes still feel a little spongy, you might use an illuminated borescope or something to see if there is a 2-foot length of flex line spliced into the brake line tucked into the frame covered by the front gas tank.

I bet I know why the tag axle was replaced on your rig . . .

I have not taken apart the flat plate hinges, I bet if I did, there would be characteristic wear. Seems to be a lot of meat there, tho. I figure whatever don't belong has been wallered away.

- Hellwinger

 

[Hellwinger]

Thought I'd post a few more Phoenix Adventures:

The hazy photo was taken of a bad parking job done outside of a busy restaurant out of desperation. Hellwinger was hungry! The Phoenix rarely fits in one parking slot. Note the planter amidships. Ah, the advantages of big tires and clearance . . .

The Phoenix lives for where the Pavement Ends . . .

This is one of our favorite campsites up along 395 at Tuttle Creek . . .

Enjoy!

- Hellwinger

 

[Hellwinger]

Thought I would be smart and use Jaymors 1915 on my battery posts. It's the best light lube I have ever used, but most important, it does not smell and does not give me a rash. That means it can be used inside and near the coach with no worries:

We were green before it was cool to be green.

Jaymors 191S has outstanding longevity and outperforms almost any well-known lubricant on the market today per laboratory testing results.

www.jaymors.com

Problem is, it's too good! It coats parts with a lube layer that will not conduct electricity. It penetrates like crazy too, and loosens up friction fits.

SO, I did this a while ago and it sat, everything looked pretty over that few weeks. But when I went to start the engine a week before an important trip, it turned over for something like a half-rev and then the starter quit. The starter was the original, so I replaced it and cleaned up the battery posts and all other connections with spray bake parts cleaner and ScotchBrite. All clean and dry. Everything worked great. I figure the ground connection opened up and the starter solenoid coil burned out.

Then I noticed that the alternator was not producing current. Years ago, the original alternator blew a diode and I replaced it with a single-wire aftermarket. The aftermarket solid state regulator was damaged by the starter solenoid coil sending a high-voltage pulse to the wrong place. The body of the one-wire alternator was smaller than OEM, so I had made an adapter bracket. Worked great for years, but now, it was blown. Went online to look for a new one, but was in a hurry, so searched retail too. No joy. The supply chain or something made this single-wire aftermarket a long-lead-time item.

I had ditched the stock electro-mechanical regulator long ago. Time was ticking. So I went on-line and found the recommended electronic alternator according to O'Reilly's and Autozone for a 1994 F350. Adapted to that (bigger, new connectors). Went on the road, only lost a couple of days. Had it blow out near Barstow (factory rebuilt). Limped back home, running the coach generator with the coach-to-engine shorting solenoid energized. Just made it before sunset, was afraid to run the headlights because the coach shore 110V to 12V power supply could barely output 7 Amps, which is almost the nominal running current for the truck.

Researched Ford alternators and found out there was a later generation that was better all-around. So I searched for the 1995 alternator and got the right thing. Required another new and expensive field connector. Anyhow, it all works now but was a real panic and a pain. It's all fun and games until something breaks.

Moral of the story: DO NOT use Jaymore's on electrical connections!

AND, we made it to our event, but without the few days that we were going to spend relaxing beforehand. This event is something the Wife Unit and I have been volunteering at for years:

Death Valley Dark Sky Festival - Death Valley National Park (U.S. National Park Service)

www.nps.gov

Was so busy interacting with the public, I did not take photos until afterwards. Points for who can guess where this photo was taken:



- Hellwinger

 

[Boosted1]

Yikes! Sounds like you had a heck of an adventure! We made it through 5 months of remote camping in Baja Mexico this past winter, had a couple hiccups that I won't get into here (but if you ever have odd shifting into neutral issues while going down the road...start with the speedometer!). We actually spent a few weeks in Death Valley in March on our way back to Utah. Once back in UT we noticed some suspension issues, the front leaf springs were tired, shocked needed to be replaced, and the rear axle tires had an odd tire wear going on. Hopefully will be fixed on Tuesday finally after some shoring up of the rear axle area and replacing the circular axle bushings. Now I am just struggling with the alignment, and it looks like I am going to have to put back in some spacers that were there at the start of this project. When I do this it is going to mean that the new bushings will need shoring up as it's going to create an air gap and a chance for wobble.

Also found a couple more lithium batteries for the house battery bringing the totall over 1100AH, removed the black tank/toilet and installed an incinerating toilet!