mortonm
Expedition Leader
Anytime. I've had mine for 2 years now and I'm still learning. Like you I was into cars before trucks.
How many miles are on it ?
richard310's 04 Xterra
- Thread starter richard310
- Start date
Anytime. I've had mine for 2 years now and I'm still learning. Like you I was into cars before trucks.
How many miles are on it ?
richard310
pew pew
Its got 145k. I want to do a timing belt/water pump/thermostat/ sparkplug change since I don't know when the last time it was done. And considering its an interference engine... yeah don't want to risk it. And I'm seeing some oil on the rear main seal too
mortonm
Expedition Leader
Ill be pushing 120 000 miles very soon. Sometimes they put a sticker on the rad for the timing belt change but its good to baseline all that stuff. Have fun with the spark plugs! The back two are a serious pian to access.
My rear main seal is leaking a little. Not worth ripping everything a part right now, barely enough to notice between 3000 mile oil changes. If it gets worse in the future ill have to do something about it.
Silver dude
Xplorer
Yeah looks to be at stock height to me. The tires add a little height though. Sounds like you a have a well laid out maintenance plan. Nice rig!
richard310
pew pew
As easy as changing out the plugs are, I've heard the 6th is the toughest since it's all the way back next to the firewall. I'll let my shop handle that while they take care of all the belts and stuff too. I just had a few leaks at the RMS after I changed the oil.. It wasn't leaking before. I only went .25qts above the recommended 3.5. Didn't want a quarter of a quart to sit there nor waste doing a semi flush.
Thanks! I'd preferrably like to keep it as close to stock height as I can without sacrificing mpg.
richard310
pew pew
UCA's I'd like to stray away from. The more stock I can keep it the better, especially with maintenance and parts availability. Keeping it closer to stock heights without a drastic lift is what I ultimately want to do. Unless the cost is justifiable and you guys convince me that I need it...
mortonm
Expedition Leader
UCA's I'd like to stray away from. The more stock I can keep it the better, especially with maintenance and parts availability. Keeping it closer to stock heights without a drastic lift is what I ultimately want to do. Unless the cost is justifiable and you guys convince me that I need it...
haha I have gone through the same thing in my head a million times. I have a new set of leaf springs in the back (about an inch of lift, but with extra load capacity). I have new torsion bars (sway away) in the front which are capable of getting up to 3" extra lift.
However, you will not be able to get all of those 3" without new control arms. The size tire you are running (265 75R16 or 235 85R16, or anything about 32" or just shy of there) is the largest you can run on this vehicle without getting really serious. To jump to 33" tires you will need a full 3" and even then some pretty good trimming I believe.
I am running 235 85R16, and have absolutely no desire to go to a larger diameter size. I have thought about getting some more lift, but if I can fit the tire size I want, and there is no rubbing or any issues, then why go any higher?
The entire purpose of getting more lift is to fit larger tires (more ground clearance). If you dont have any desire to run larger tires than you currently have, and you have no rubbing issues, then there is no reason to anything more than what you have right now.
Its tough not to let the mod bug run away with you. Now if you were going to add metal bumpers etc you might want a bit more lift because of the extra weight.
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richard310
pew pew
It really is tough with that mod bug, but I've learned from my last car not to get too carried away considering the mileage already on the X. Maintenance is a B!
If it ain't broke why fix it right? Always a good concept to live by. I do like the current tire size and vehicle height, and for what I'll be doing and the climate/environement I'm in, I don't think I'll need anything more than that.
I may upgrade the suspension to replace the ProComp shocks in the near future. There are no springs on the front shocks. What am I running? I'm so used to coils on struts so it's pretty odd to me.
The only metal bumper I'm considering is a rear tire carrier with perhaps some jerry can mounts.
mortonm
Expedition Leader
you have torsion bars up front, pretty common (or was 10 years ago) suspensino design. Alot of the GM Trucks, 100 Series Land Cruisers use this design. Basically its a metal rod that is used to hold the front end up. When it is locked into the mounts you impart twist (torsion) on it which raises it up. The front end is locked into the A arms, so the more the bar is twist, the more they are lifted, and it lifts the front of the vehicle. If you get down and look under your vehicle right at the front doors, you should see a metal bar running from a cross member up to the A arm, this is the torsion bar, there will be one on each side.
As far as shocks, I have the Bilsetin HD shocks (good for stock up to 2-3" of lift) They have been really great the last year I have had them and they arent expensive. You will notice a big difference compared to the procomps. There are install pics in my build thread.
The only caveat is that you will have to remove the rear sway bar in the back, because the shock bodies are larger. It is advisable to remove it anyways for better articulation in the back. Mine has been gone for a year and I didnt notice a difference at all, just a few bolts to remove.
richard310
pew pew
Yeah I noticed the torsion bars as I was changing the oil this past weekend. Good to know what does what as far as suspension is concerned. I've heard the Bilsteins are great and you add another pro to get them. The RSB is already slightly rubbing on the rear shock body. It's quite a "floaty" ride with these shocks. Shouldn't be blown yet. I'll be sure to check your install pics when I get a chance to change em out.
Allof75
Pathfinder
Agreed with Mortonm, seen on a lot of trucks (Monteros, Rams, GM trucks/suvs) and here and there sedans/coupes (Hudsons back in the day and now some manufacturers use them on the rear end, like on the new VW Jetta). Basically it's a simple idea of pushing the tires against the ground via that metal rod you saw. You can "key" them in some trucks, and in your Xterra you can "re-index" them to gain lift. Essentially tightening the bolt at their end to push them into the ground harder, and thus more lift. The only thing it reduces is available downtravel, but some low-profile bumpstops can help there too. Pretty standard "poor man lift" for your ride is to re-index the front, and throw a set of lift shackles on the back. Countless people run this with little to no issues.
As for shocks IMHO, buy the highest rated Bilsteins you can find. I have 4600 HDs in the rear of my Pathy, though if I had the chance I would run 5100/5150s, so see if those are available for your X. Bilstein is seen in nearly every corner of the market- DDM Tuning cars, GT-Rs, Mercedes & BMWs and other high performance brands, as well as desert Prerunners, factory Toyotas, Rock-Crawlers. Name a category and they're part of it. Legendary ride and control, German Engineered, and extremely durable. There's nothing bad to say about them. I love mine.
richard310
pew pew
I may end up doing the Bilsteins upgrade. More and more great reviews. Even my shop doing the timing belt,etc work today recommended them too.
richard310
pew pew
Got the X back from the shop with some good engine/trans maintenance done yesterday... Final cost was quite the ouch, but it gives me a good piece of mind and a baseline for future maintenance.
- Timing, AC, Alternator, Water Pump, and power steering Belts
- Tensioner
- Crankshaft/camshaft seals
- Water Pump and Thermostat
- Upper/Lower radiator hoses, bypass hose, water pipe hose, 90* bypass hose
- Coolant flush
- platinum spark plugs
- NGK ignition wire set
- transmission flush
And an oil change last weekend.
Just got my brakes from RockAuto today. Powerstop rotors/pads and Raybestos brake shoes. Those will go in hopefully this weekend as my fronts are squealing like dying giraffes. I don't think I have the key for the one of the security lugs... -_- Will probably have to look around for that.
- Timing, AC, Alternator, Water Pump, and power steering Belts
- Tensioner
- Crankshaft/camshaft seals
- Water Pump and Thermostat
- Upper/Lower radiator hoses, bypass hose, water pipe hose, 90* bypass hose
- Coolant flush
- platinum spark plugs
- NGK ignition wire set
- transmission flush
And an oil change last weekend.
Just got my brakes from RockAuto today. Powerstop rotors/pads and Raybestos brake shoes. Those will go in hopefully this weekend as my fronts are squealing like dying giraffes. I don't think I have the key for the one of the security lugs... -_- Will probably have to look around for that.
mortonm
Expedition Leader
That is some good maintenance! You should be good for awhile!
I removed all the security locking lugs off mine. No one wants to ssteel my crap old alloys anyways, tires? Maybe but I doubt it.
I didn't want to worry about losing the key or more likely stripping it when I had a flat somewhere far from help. New lugs are like $3 each from the dealership.
I removed all the security locking lugs off mine. No one wants to ssteel my crap old alloys anyways, tires? Maybe but I doubt it.
I didn't want to worry about losing the key or more likely stripping it when I had a flat somewhere far from help. New lugs are like $3 each from the dealership.
richard310
pew pew
Yeah hahah probably be more worried about the tires than the wheels.
I think I should've done a diff oil flush too while it was on the lift... oh well, next time. Seems okay right now anyways.
Most likely the local stealership to find the lug key, correct? I might have to go tomorrow after work.
Forgot to add Xoskel LoPro Light Cage was ordered a few days ago. Still awaiting response from them regarding shipping dates. Something about getting em back from the powdercoater this week. Debating what kind of lights to throw in there.
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