Adventurous
Explorer
Nice! Really digging the bronze wheels, they just look mean. Sounds like an awesome weekend getaway as well. :smiley_drive:
*Rickashay's 04' Tundra* - A build of Compromises
- Thread starter rickashay
- Start date
4Running Daily
Observer
I really need to move to Canada
andrewwheatley
New member
Drooling over that rear platform. Good excuse to make your friends get their own rigs since they can't ride along anymore haha
Nice Tundra...but?
Addison,
Nice Tundra! I followed you on T4R.org, when you had the 'dirt duster'. I loved your 4runner, and it gave me lots of inspiration for my 99'. I then kept track of 'Tom Cruiser', on Ih8mud. All your rigs are awesome builds. You definitely have a knack for building quality.
One question. Do you miss your 4runner?
Regards
Durwin
because we all like pics...here's a couple of mine.
Addison,
Nice Tundra! I followed you on T4R.org, when you had the 'dirt duster'. I loved your 4runner, and it gave me lots of inspiration for my 99'. I then kept track of 'Tom Cruiser', on Ih8mud. All your rigs are awesome builds. You definitely have a knack for building quality.
One question. Do you miss your 4runner?
Regards
Durwin
because we all like pics...here's a couple of mine.
HHIRunner
Observer
SportsmanJake
Adventurer
Hi, just started reading this thread and love the truck. I'm about half way through and had a few questions about your 35s.
It seemed like a lot of effort tubbing and cutting. Why not start with a platform that better fits 35s? Why tundra?
Why did you not do a suspension lift to fit the 35s?
Thanks!
It seemed like a lot of effort tubbing and cutting. Why not start with a platform that better fits 35s? Why tundra?
Why did you not do a suspension lift to fit the 35s?
Thanks!
dyogim
Explorer
To help answer this question. There isn't a simple bolt-on suspension lift that will allow for 35's. To have a pure suspension lift fit 35's, you'll need to go long travel. Which requires aftermarket upper and lower control arms, longer CV axles and flared fenders.
The other type of lift is with a cradle drop type of lift. This is where the front cross member is cut, dropped 4"-6" and new brackets bolted. This is not a true suspension lift and it raises the center of gravity while keeping the stock suspension feel and no additional benefits. Other than added height to fit 35's
The other option is a SAS (solid axle swap). This you can modify to fit what ever needs you want.
So for those that want to simple bolt on suspension kit without breaking the bank, modifications need to be made to the body.
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rickashay
Explorer
Thanks, I'm really digging the color. Choked I scratched them so bad already..... ugghhhh wheeling... haaha
It's actually a birch butcher-block countertop cut to size!
Thanks guys!
Come visit, but this time bring the Runner!
Haha so true, that's the dogs space now.
Yah retaining as much storage as possible was key. I think it came out great and the rear cubby has goes all the way behind the fridge so it's perfect for straps and jumper cables etc.
Rig looks great Durwin! Thanks for the compliments. I'm pretty particular but building all these trucks has no doubt been a learning experience. I think I'm getting the formula right on the Tundra.
I miss the 4Runner and all my other rigs a lot. They were all good in respective ways. The 4runner bodystyling is timeless and honestly my favourite looking toyota 4x4 of all time. Looks are important and I'll admit that. If I was single I would probably still rock the 4Runner, I just outgrew it. Dirtco's 4Runner is literally one of my 3 favourite built trucks of all time. His 3rd Gen is perfect IMO.
Canada rocks. But you guys have a ton of excellent places to go in the US too. And your gas is cheap. haha
Thanks dude, yah he did! You'll have to get out with us soon. Casper needs to be broken in on the trail. Keep up all the good work on the maintenance and you'll be ready in no time.
Mike brings up a lot of good points above. "Drop Bracket" lifts are pointless other than for mall crawlers. SAS is a ton of work in itself but you trade off some level of driveability in exchange for capability. And it requires a fair amount of work and know-how. One day I will 3-link mine.... one day.
Lots of work to fit 35's, yes. However one of the key things I've learned is to build the vehicle around the tire size you plan on running. Actually learnt this from Dirtco on T4R.org. It really does make sense. I knew 35 was the best tire choice for me and the type of wheeling and difficulty of trails that I like to run. To run 35's (as they are a large and heavy tire) you need a good powerplant. I knew my LX struggled with 35's and the powerplant was weak in my eyes altogether. The 4Runner pushed the 33's ok but I knew it would struggle bumping up to the next size. Gearing helps but really you don't gain power from gears. It's just an illusion of pwer because your trading off better acceleration for top end and higher RPMS. Truck will "feel" quicker off the line but you've taken that from somewhere else. Everything is a compromise. So I knew I wanted 35's and a good powerplant to push them. I also wanted IFS for my immediate future. I had an immaculate Tundra that was paid for in my driveway. The V8 is glorious. I would way rather trim a firewall than do a motor swap, so the choice was easy. I also considered a new 2nd Gen Tacoma as they can run 35's fairly easy, but the cost of a new vehicle scared me and the 2UZ has more torque, especially now with the headers. Running more lift to clear big tires is also an illusion. The suspension cycle is still identical with a 3" lift, but you've just changed the statis suspension height to be higher instead of lower so the frequency of contact of the rub prone areas will decrease. The real way to clearance ANY truck for bigger tires (even 33's) is to pull the struts and cycle the suspension FULLY and steer lock to lock. If it doesn't rub at full bump or full lock, then your truck actually clears those tires. Mine does just that. Keeping the lift to just over 1" means my CV axles are basically at a factory angle reducing the stress and breakage on those parts compared to the larger lifts. I get a better alignment because I'm almost at factory height, the truck is more stable (lower COG), the CV's are better off, and I am maintaining a proper amount of droop vs. uptravel because my suspension is relatively centered. This retains the best ride quality.
More work, yes.... but now I have a rig with 35's, that is less prone to break parts, has a better ride than most trucks on 33's (due to lift height), has a low COG, and a v8 to push the heavy shoes. Win in my eyes.:smiley_drive:
4Running Daily
Observer
This post is so accurate it isn't even funny. This is exactly the reason I run 35's at only an inch and a half of lift. My CV's are basically flat and the ride is amazing. I will definitely be taking a trip to Canada in the not to distant future, but I'm actually planning to move to a Tundra in a year :Wow1:
toyotech
Expedition Leader
How much suspension travel do you have? I'm only on 32s with ~2 inch lift and I rub the body. I don't rub the flares. I did trim the mud flap but it rubs right behind it. I'm wondering if I have more up travel than you do???
I was trying to find pictures of how you mod the body cuz I was gonna do the same but I couldn't find any where you did a body trim
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I was trying to find pictures of how you mod the body cuz I was gonna do the same but I couldn't find any where you did a body trim
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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rickashay
Explorer
Haha thanks Connor! Actually? You in a Tundy? I love your 3rd Gen but I'm pretty sure you'd make one hell of a nice Tundra. DO IT.
I used to run the same size tire as you with relatively the same wheel specs ( I ran SCS Stealth 6's with 265/70/17 ST Maxx). I took a grinder and cut out about 4 inches of the lower pinch weld. Then I zip-tied the fender liners to pull tighter to the firewall. I didnt trim the body at all or the flares... just that pinch weld. I had only the tinniest amount of rub if I came hauling into a driveway while cornering. I'm wondering what your caster is set to? That plays a large part in the fitment. More caster will get you farther from the firewall.
More uptravel? Do you have aftermarket UCA's? I guess it's possible due to variables like bushings and stuff but I bet our travel is within a 1/2" of one another if we are both running bilsteins and factory UCA's.
Unrelated news.... my rear 10" Fox shocks should be in on Monday or Tuesday. Also have a U-Bolt flip waiting to go in and I found out I need to replace my LCA bushings.... not stoked.
toyotech
Expedition Leader
I did my own alignment after I got the uca. I maxed the caster but the machine I used was crap. I no longer work for Toyota and they recently got a new machine. I'm gonna have to get it checked. I probably do it when my winch comes in if it ever does. I'm gonna raise the front up a little since the bumper lowered it and the winch will too.
Still amazed you can clear 35s with no body mods.
Just read you have stock UCA. That might be why. I have camburg so I may have more up travel.
I wanted to run bigger tires but didn't want to regear. Also the rack and pinion tend to leak on stock size tires so I didn't want to overwork steering components.
I might look into a 1/2 body lift if alignment checks out
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Still amazed you can clear 35s with no body mods.
Just read you have stock UCA. That might be why. I have camburg so I may have more up travel.
I wanted to run bigger tires but didn't want to regear. Also the rack and pinion tend to leak on stock size tires so I didn't want to overwork steering components.
I might look into a 1/2 body lift if alignment checks out
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rickashay
Explorer
I did trim my fenders for the 35's.... if you look at the photos when I tubbed the truck I show how much actual fender was removed. But it wasn't necessary with my 32's at all. Probably the UCA's are the difference, although I thought the benefit of the UCA was more droop travel? Hopefully its both!