RMP&O's v8 80-series

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
Alright not so bad. Got some rest and got a lot more cleaned up via parts washer. I reek like grease, oil and cleaning solvent but that is all part of the fun. Going to pull the 3rd member soon and clean it since the diff center was contaminated with the soup. Might get lucky and be reassembling by tonight.

Feeling like I should just rig up a cot in the shop and stay in there until it is all done!

Cheers
 

krazytoy

Adventurer
Feeling like I should just rig up a cot in the shop and stay in there until it is all done! Cheers

What the 30 steps rom the shop to your bed is too far?

Don't worry, soon enough we will be smelling like salty ocean water and Tequila! Keep pushing bro, the pay of is soon!
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
What the 30 steps rom the shop to your bed is too far?

Don't worry, soon enough we will be smelling like salty ocean water and Tequila! Keep pushing bro, the pay of is soon!

No not to far but getting clean before sleep is another step that could be skipped if I just stayed in the shop 24/7. Can't do that though, got to walk away from it when it is upsetting me.

Two steering arms reamed out and ready to go, pitman arm left to ream. One side cut, rotated and ready to weld. Just the other side left.

Cheers
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
Well, I have crested the hill and am on the downslope. Both knuckle balls have been cut and turned to 4.5 degrees. Both steering arms and the pitman arm have been reamed out to accept the GM tres. Every thing is cleaned up and de-greased. I have still got to cut off the part of the steering arms I don't need. Other than that it is just steering stops welded back on and assembly. Oh ya and the Y-link plus King damper when I get it assembled.



new brakes front and rear

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axle torn down

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the soup, oh ya soup!

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After cutting and rotating the knuckle ball I double check it with several tools

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got out my big machine for this

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Here you can see how much I moved them, not much needed to gain 7*

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polishing up the balls a bit

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Ok so this is my first cut & turn I have done 100% solo. I made one big mistake which taught me a good lesson. That was I tried to cut the weld on my first knuckle rather than behind the weld. No idea why I thought I should cut the weld out. Maybe because it looked pretty damn hard to cut behind it under the coil perch. Cutting the weld did not work out and cost me a lot of time and frustration. In the end I welded it up and cut again right behind it. This worked out fine I just lost a bunch of time. Both knuckles rotated fairly easy. I probably checked them on angle 15x with three different tools before burning them on. I burned all the oil out of my cuts with a mapp torch before welding. I played around with my machine and it's settings doing test welds on 1/4" until I was happy with how it was laying beads. Once I actually welded them, they burned on awesome. Some of my best welds to date too which makes me real happy. The 212 helps a lot and makes me weld so much better. The reaming sucked badly and probably took me over 6hrs for three holes. It would have been so much easier in a drill press but I don't have one right now.

Tonight, I should be getting it all back together.

Disclaimer: If you copy me I am not liable or responsible in any way shape or form for the work you do on your truck.

Cheers
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
Nice work!
What is your goal for the final caster reading?

Thanks! 4.5 degrees


I have a major OCD problem. Never an issue accept when I am in a hurry. Oh well, let the OCD flow any ways.


front axle parts all cleaned up, painted and ready to install. I wire brushed all this stuff, brutal task on the die grinder, and then primed and painted. New OEM inner axle seals and knuckle wiper/seal. Bearings all seem fine after cleaning, same for seals. Cut down the steering arms to get rid of the arms behind the axle I no longer need.

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Just got this sucker yesterday, it is massive.

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Had hoped I could maybe fit it like this

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doesn't really work though

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So I yanked my battery and tray and am going to have to move it. Only place I really have to move it is to the bed where my 2nd battery is going. My main battery has been kind of weak when it is cold so I bought a new Odyssey for my main. Been wanting to clean up my wiring for awhile anyways, guess this will be the time. Any ways, here is how I am mounting the massive 4" air box. By the way, this is the size recommended by the manufacturer of the air box, Unique Metal Products or UMP.

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Going to keep my MAF and it is 3.5" Air box is 4". So I ordered up a few more fittings to plumb this sucker. The ole Chevy v8 should breath well with this thing!

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Cheers
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
Front axle is all back together. I am OCD and that slows me down. All the cleaning and painting really slowed me down. Ended up not having to buy any new bearings or seals for the soupy side. Just lot's of cleaning, bearings and seals all seemed ok. All parts cleaned individually and painted individually. Steering stops welded back on the axle too. New brakes in front too with 100 series pads. I am working on the Y-link now, should have that done tonight.

Next up is Jason's bumper. I will be starting on that tomorrow. Friday a buddy is coming over and will stay the night. We will see if we can bang out the platform in the back Friday night and Saturday morning. He is a carpenter by trade so it should go fast.

Doubt I will get to test drive it until next week. With the battery all torn out I just don't feel like putting it all back in for a test drive and then tear it all back out again. Ordered up some battery terminal splitter post things, whatever you call them. Rather than run all my wires to the back where the main battery is going I think I will just run a hot and ground up to the engine bay and pick everything up that way. Way easier and faster.

Got a handful of little things to do in the next week but the air box, platform in back and bumper are my focus and bigger jobs now.

Cheers
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
happy, regardless of what anybody says, this truck shoudl drive absolutely outstanding now. I feel 99.8% sure of this because my buddy Krazytoy did this same thing to his 80 and I got to drive it right after that. It was one of the most amazing trucks I have ever driven. That is why I did all this, that and because we did it to my 60 and that truck was also superb to drive.

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Y-link dramas

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RHS full lock

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LHS full lock

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As you can see not going to work. So I ordered up this morning from RuffStuff offset GM tres as well as their y-link adapter for the offset tres. This will move the tre 3/4" forward. In addition to this I am going to move the panhard 2" up on the axle end. This will greatly help clearance as well as help roll center a lot.

I realize all if not most of this is way beyond what most people on this forum are willing to do or are capable of doing. However folks, I am learning as I go too, only set up one front axle before with a c&t and it was under the wing of a guy who has done upwards of a dozen c&ts. I also realize most people freak out about cutting their axle and will question the strength and safety. Yet even a guy like me who doesn't have a ton of experience welding can tell when a weld is good. Going into this I certainly had this concern but now after cutting and welding, I am way sure and confident my welds are good and their are no strength issues whatsoever in the axle housing. I used my big 212 machine to weld it, had very clean welds and it burned it very nicely so I have no worries. That is big statement for me to make because I worry about these kinds of things a lot. Imagine the knuckle coming off at 80mph!!

On Mud some guys have asked about keeping it all square. I did my best at that and it is very hard to get the perfect reading on the knuckle ball when you rotate. This because there is not a lot to use for a good reference, meaning making sure your angle reading is square with the frame, ect ect. I did it as best as I could taking readings and measurements many times before welding. From what I can tell, my caster may vary slightly from side to side, like .2-.4 of a degree. Thing is from factory caster is not the same side to side because Toyota makes this axle with a slight difference to handle the crown in the road. So I actually may be perfect with slightly less caster on one side. An alignment will tell for sure. And speaking of which I had it aligned before all this and am really interest to compare the sheets side by side after I get it aligned again. It was way off before. I also checked camber which of course is not adjustable. What I got is LHS at 88.5* and RHS at 88.7*. I do not know what factory specs are on camber but if it was 90* it would have no camber which is not right. Also there should be slightly less camber on one side then the other because of the crown in the road. What my readings do tell me is I am pretty friggin square which is awesome.

A guy and most people can just slap caster correction items in there to fix it up. That is what most people do. All along though I have not been interested in doing that. Look back int the thread, I had MAF drop brackets on my radius arms and the truck drove ok with them in there but I removed them and will not run them, don't like them. I looked long and hard at Slee radius arms or even Superior Engineering radius arms. $1000 a pop for a set though and not guaranteed to fix all the issues when you lift the truck 4". Cutting and turning I feel guarantees it is set up just right and really doesn't cost very much at all. The way I liked my trucks is to lift them but put them back to factory specs. That has been my goal all along wit this 80, 4" lift yet perfect caster and no caster correction items. I think I have achieved that. :)

By the way, factory caster is 3*, I set mine at 4.5* because with larger than stock tires you want slightly more caster. I am running 35's and the general consensus is 4-5* when running 35+" rubber. The increased caster helps it handle better with the larger tires.

Unfortunately I won't be test driving it until next week. I wold have to put my battery back in and am not doing that. I also am going to have next to no test time before bailing and heading to Baja. Yes that is brave of me but I feel confident in my work and feel good that I am getting it right first time which means no dramas on my trip. Time will tell.

Cheers
 

tacollie

Glamper
Dang! Good job on all the work and doing all of it at the last minute! I always like seeing people put in the extra work to do it right even when there are bolt on options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
So got the rough in on the platform in the back done, that was about 2am last night when I took the above picture. We built it out of 1/2" AC and 1x2. Glued and biscuted it all. It is really stout and only weighs about 15lbs, maybe 20lbs. Just barely enough room in the battery boxes for two batteries and wiring. Couldn't really build the batt box to suit the batts, had to build it to suit the space available. Luckily it will just barely work.

Got my air box mount all fabbed up and test fitted and now painted. It is a done deal and ready to install the air box.

Tonight planning to work on the platform in the back a bit and also get my rear bumper sanded and painted. RuffStuff new tres just showed up today so also will be working on that.

More pics to come!

Cheers
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
No more issues with the offset tres. Short on time so leaving the panhard alone.

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done deal

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rear bumper going on this evening

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Cheers
 

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