Robinson Fuso rides again - prep for Spring 2015
- Thread starter pugslyyy
- Start date
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Coolant Change
Okay, you asked for photos. I give you - the coolant change!
There are two drain points. The one on the radiator is simplicity itself (a petcock) but the one on the block requires a 19mm wrench and some creativity to get at it. I ended up using a very long ratchet from underneath. I attached a spare piece of tubing to the drain just to control the mess.
Fuso has 2 options for flushing - either a chemical flush or a hot water flush. I decided to just use the hot water flush. All in, I probably ran 20 gallons through. Using my super siphon, I flush the radiator inlet line and the block outlet by angling the siphon end. I basically ran water until everything looked really clear, and then ran some more.
Here are the fluids waiting to go in (not planning on using it all)
My technique for fill is to leave the drains open and pour in antifreeze until I get good color out. I filled the radiator first, shut off its petcock, and then filled the block
Mitsubishi suggests blocking the radiator to get it up to temperature more quickly. This is a piece of the bottom of my cabinet from the Bigfoot that I haven't taken to the dump yet. You can see the coolant foaming out as the air bleeds from the system.
The biggest challenge was accessing the drain point on the block, otherwise a fairly simple task. A super siphon (jiggler) really makes tasks like this easy.
The coolant capacity of the truck is 16 liters, of which I figure I was able to replace about 12.5 using this method.
Okay, you asked for photos. I give you - the coolant change!
There are two drain points. The one on the radiator is simplicity itself (a petcock) but the one on the block requires a 19mm wrench and some creativity to get at it. I ended up using a very long ratchet from underneath. I attached a spare piece of tubing to the drain just to control the mess.
Fuso has 2 options for flushing - either a chemical flush or a hot water flush. I decided to just use the hot water flush. All in, I probably ran 20 gallons through. Using my super siphon, I flush the radiator inlet line and the block outlet by angling the siphon end. I basically ran water until everything looked really clear, and then ran some more.
Here are the fluids waiting to go in (not planning on using it all)
My technique for fill is to leave the drains open and pour in antifreeze until I get good color out. I filled the radiator first, shut off its petcock, and then filled the block
Mitsubishi suggests blocking the radiator to get it up to temperature more quickly. This is a piece of the bottom of my cabinet from the Bigfoot that I haven't taken to the dump yet. You can see the coolant foaming out as the air bleeds from the system.
The biggest challenge was accessing the drain point on the block, otherwise a fairly simple task. A super siphon (jiggler) really makes tasks like this easy.
The coolant capacity of the truck is 16 liters, of which I figure I was able to replace about 12.5 using this method.
Attachments
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Dometic Vent Fan Install
I have a dometic (3 way) absorption fridge in my camper. Absorption fridges are rugged, dependable units because they don't have a compressor and only need a heat source to function - a 3 way means it can be powered by AC, DC, or propane.
Because they relay on convection to operate effectively, they have a vent at the bottom and a vent at the top. Cool air is drawn in at the bottom and expelled at the top. This is what the top vent looks like on the roof.
In a perfect world - not too hot, parked in shade, and the wind is not causing negative pressure on the side of the camper where the fridge is (and trying to make the flue work 'backwards') everything is great. On days when the world isn't perfect, the fridge can use a little help to get the convection going as designed. There are plenty of kits out there, but I wanted to roll my own. I ordered 4 Antec TriCool 120mm Case Fans for $20. These are very common, very inexpensive fans with a good reputation. If I run them all on high speed they pull about 10 watts.
I fabricated mounts out of HDPE for the fans. I like HDPE - easy to work with, doesn't rot, doesn't rust, inexpensive.
Since computer fans use so little power, I was able to wire everything up with 3M Scotchlok connectors. I really like using those when I can - There's a reason the phone company uses them, they are quick install and just don't fail.
Since I only wanted the fans to run when necessary, I installed a normally open mechanical thermostat.
I made it so that I can adjust the thermostat through the fan blades with a suitably long screwdriver.
Next the question was how to power the fans. Since they were on the roof, why not throw on another solar panel - there's room, and the fans probably only end up wanting to run when the sun is shining anyways. I got a good deal on a nice little 15W panel with a controller. I built some standoffs using some aluminum square tube, and used 3M double sided outdoor adhesive tape to secure the panel to the roof.
Here's the controller and the control switch. I like covered switches like this - when the cover is closed you know that the switch is in it's normal operating position. Still a little cable cleanup to do.
Down = Normal (Thermostat), Middle = Off, Up = On (Bypass mode)
Oh, I also put in a small AGM battery in the bottom of the fridge vent flue to balance the power demand and generation, and also installed a baffle in the bottom of the flue to direct air over the coils. Out of uploads though.
I have a dometic (3 way) absorption fridge in my camper. Absorption fridges are rugged, dependable units because they don't have a compressor and only need a heat source to function - a 3 way means it can be powered by AC, DC, or propane.
Because they relay on convection to operate effectively, they have a vent at the bottom and a vent at the top. Cool air is drawn in at the bottom and expelled at the top. This is what the top vent looks like on the roof.
In a perfect world - not too hot, parked in shade, and the wind is not causing negative pressure on the side of the camper where the fridge is (and trying to make the flue work 'backwards') everything is great. On days when the world isn't perfect, the fridge can use a little help to get the convection going as designed. There are plenty of kits out there, but I wanted to roll my own. I ordered 4 Antec TriCool 120mm Case Fans for $20. These are very common, very inexpensive fans with a good reputation. If I run them all on high speed they pull about 10 watts.
I fabricated mounts out of HDPE for the fans. I like HDPE - easy to work with, doesn't rot, doesn't rust, inexpensive.
Since computer fans use so little power, I was able to wire everything up with 3M Scotchlok connectors. I really like using those when I can - There's a reason the phone company uses them, they are quick install and just don't fail.
Since I only wanted the fans to run when necessary, I installed a normally open mechanical thermostat.
I made it so that I can adjust the thermostat through the fan blades with a suitably long screwdriver.
Next the question was how to power the fans. Since they were on the roof, why not throw on another solar panel - there's room, and the fans probably only end up wanting to run when the sun is shining anyways. I got a good deal on a nice little 15W panel with a controller. I built some standoffs using some aluminum square tube, and used 3M double sided outdoor adhesive tape to secure the panel to the roof.
Here's the controller and the control switch. I like covered switches like this - when the cover is closed you know that the switch is in it's normal operating position. Still a little cable cleanup to do.
Down = Normal (Thermostat), Middle = Off, Up = On (Bypass mode)
Oh, I also put in a small AGM battery in the bottom of the fridge vent flue to balance the power demand and generation, and also installed a baffle in the bottom of the flue to direct air over the coils. Out of uploads though.
Regarding hard water deposits, its not the misters I'd be worried about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDBq7fcziw8
baphenatem
New member
It's not the misters that I'd be thinking about in relation to using distilled water, it's the calcified surface of the radiator.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
The only thing I saw in that video was the cats.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Dinette Mod - converting to smaller table and U shaped seating
I made good progress on another project yesterday - reconfiguring the seating area. We want to try something with less table surface but more room to lounge.
Since I'm not sure if this is something that is going to work out or not, I want to be able to revert to the large table / stock configuration. I also didn't want to invest a huge amount in what is initially intended to just be a proof of concept. If I like it I will redo the surfaces with better quality finishes.
I purchased an adjustable height overbed table (from a medical supply place)
![71+ezHPLFKL._SX522_[1].jpg](https://expeditionportal.com/forum/data/attachments/212/212597-6ddef6d7f728396284babe5db9d273cb.jpg "71+ezHPLFKL._SX522_[1].jpg")
and a 24x24 table top (from a restaurant supply place)
![$_12[1].JPG](https://expeditionportal.com/forum/data/attachments/212/212598-37e8469d27805f592098f1976f5bc079.jpg "$_12[1].JPG")
Here it is in position
I removed the hardware from the large table top and fabricated a convertible seat / split tabletop
Here it is installed in the table position (there are latches to hold the two table sections together when in this configuration)
and in the seat position
I made good progress on another project yesterday - reconfiguring the seating area. We want to try something with less table surface but more room to lounge.
Since I'm not sure if this is something that is going to work out or not, I want to be able to revert to the large table / stock configuration. I also didn't want to invest a huge amount in what is initially intended to just be a proof of concept. If I like it I will redo the surfaces with better quality finishes.
I purchased an adjustable height overbed table (from a medical supply place)
and a 24x24 table top (from a restaurant supply place)
Here it is in position
I removed the hardware from the large table top and fabricated a convertible seat / split tabletop
Here it is installed in the table position (there are latches to hold the two table sections together when in this configuration)
and in the seat position
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
No pictures today, the time was consumed by mundane systems services.
- added a bottle opener to the spare tire carrier. Drilled and tapped the holes and mounted the aluminum opener with hex head stainless steel fasteners.
- added a 4 port USB charger wired in over the dinette.
- filled the raw and potable water tanks
- a few slight leaks at the water distribution board, tightened the hose clamps and everything looks okay. The tubing and clamps used weren't ideal - they need to be given a tighten on a regular basis.
- transfer pump working, a few drips but again tightened the hose clamps and seems good
- system pressurized, appears to be okay from overwintering
The really good news is that there doesn't appear to be water going anywhere it isn't supposed to.
- no propane, filled up the 5 gallon tank
- cleaned the water heater combustion chamber, fixed a damaged wire, reconnected the stinger, reconnected the control board - everything working (I damaged the wire when I was winterizing last Fall so I disconnected a bunch of stuff to make sure I remembered to fix it later)
- cleaned the heater combustion chamber, everything working
- air conditioning working
- fridge switches over to propane okay
- stove working
I still need to make sure that the grey and black tanks are good, and that the macerator is still online. I have a cleanout (between the house and septic) that makes this task easy.
I still need to fill the main propane tank, but the 5 gallon tank is enough to test everything out.
Since I had time, I decided to rip the cab apart. So many vehicle devices these days use 12 V cigarette lighter jacks - not the most compact or reliable. And they hide a secret - they aren't 12V. If you pull the adapter apart there is a circuit board with an opamp and a couple of capacitors and a diode or 3. So you can't just cut the wire and splice it in directly. I disassembled 4 of these today and soldered in wires for 12V and Ground. Should be a much more reliable connection.
Also working on rigging up a blind spot camera for lane changes. Not sure exactly how it may work but playing around with a few ideas. I have video on my Pioneer head but trying to see if there is a way to get it on my Garmin.
- added a bottle opener to the spare tire carrier. Drilled and tapped the holes and mounted the aluminum opener with hex head stainless steel fasteners.
- added a 4 port USB charger wired in over the dinette.
- filled the raw and potable water tanks
- a few slight leaks at the water distribution board, tightened the hose clamps and everything looks okay. The tubing and clamps used weren't ideal - they need to be given a tighten on a regular basis.
- transfer pump working, a few drips but again tightened the hose clamps and seems good
- system pressurized, appears to be okay from overwintering
The really good news is that there doesn't appear to be water going anywhere it isn't supposed to.
- no propane, filled up the 5 gallon tank
- cleaned the water heater combustion chamber, fixed a damaged wire, reconnected the stinger, reconnected the control board - everything working (I damaged the wire when I was winterizing last Fall so I disconnected a bunch of stuff to make sure I remembered to fix it later)
- cleaned the heater combustion chamber, everything working
- air conditioning working
- fridge switches over to propane okay
- stove working
I still need to make sure that the grey and black tanks are good, and that the macerator is still online. I have a cleanout (between the house and septic) that makes this task easy.
I still need to fill the main propane tank, but the 5 gallon tank is enough to test everything out.
Since I had time, I decided to rip the cab apart. So many vehicle devices these days use 12 V cigarette lighter jacks - not the most compact or reliable. And they hide a secret - they aren't 12V. If you pull the adapter apart there is a circuit board with an opamp and a couple of capacitors and a diode or 3. So you can't just cut the wire and splice it in directly. I disassembled 4 of these today and soldered in wires for 12V and Ground. Should be a much more reliable connection.
Also working on rigging up a blind spot camera for lane changes. Not sure exactly how it may work but playing around with a few ideas. I have video on my Pioneer head but trying to see if there is a way to get it on my Garmin.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Nice, what did you put in?
I have an older Pioneer flip screen unit, and they no longer release navigation updates for it.
I'd consider something newer but the combination of nav / backup camera / flip screen is tough.
SkiFreak
Crazy Person
I bought a unit direct from a factory in China. So far it looks pretty good, but I need to do a bit more testing to confirm everything.
This double DIN unit runs Android 4.4.4 and has bluetooth phone capability, iGo GPS maps, does front and rear cameras plus anything any other Android device will to. There are TV and WiFi HotSpot options, but I did not want/need those, so I did not get them.
I have my rear view camera running through the unit (replacement for rear view mirror) and can turn it on by applying 12v to the reverse camera trigger wire. Music continues to play when the camera is active, which is possible via a setting in the unit (audio is normally muted when the reverse camera system is activated).
My music is on a 32GB micro SD card, so I don't have a shortage of available tunes. The iGo maps are on a separate micro SD card and a front camera can also write to this card in real time.
If you want more info, just send me a PM.
This double DIN unit runs Android 4.4.4 and has bluetooth phone capability, iGo GPS maps, does front and rear cameras plus anything any other Android device will to. There are TV and WiFi HotSpot options, but I did not want/need those, so I did not get them.
I have my rear view camera running through the unit (replacement for rear view mirror) and can turn it on by applying 12v to the reverse camera trigger wire. Music continues to play when the camera is active, which is possible via a setting in the unit (audio is normally muted when the reverse camera system is activated).
My music is on a 32GB micro SD card, so I don't have a shortage of available tunes. The iGo maps are on a separate micro SD card and a front camera can also write to this card in real time.
If you want more info, just send me a PM.
unkamonkey
Explorer
Lane changes, what are those? I consider a trip to be good if I actually pass a slower moving vehicle in my '92 FG.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Yeah but sometimes you get stuck in the middle lane (letting traffic merge, etc) and I have a HUGE blind spot if my mirror isn't perfectly adjusted.
I'm working on rigging up the camera now - I got it to come up on my Garmin by fabricating a cable. Any camera will work, but Garmin uses a custom cable configuration so some soldering was involved to make it work. Normal video would be contact 1 = signal, contact 2 = ground.
For whatever reason Garmin uses a 4 pin cable (same as your cell phone), but sends video on contact 2 and signal ground on contact 3. Typical wiring would be contact 1 = left audio, contact 2 = right audio, contact 3 = video (or microphone), contact 4 = ground.
SkiFreak
Crazy Person
I can totally relate, as I nearly cleaned up a car on my left side, simply because I did not see it at all in my mirror.
Does your truck not have a split mirror (flat and fisheye)? The Aus spec trucks only have a very slightly convex, one piece mirror, which I cannot understand.
Don't ya love standards???