Chuck Prowse
New member
I have a lot of Discos and a D90 but I love my 91 GDE. Whole different personality. If it doesn't drive like a bank vault walk away. No tick no rust and maintenance records and you should have a good one.
Rover Classic, which year or model is best?
- Thread starter livetoride
- Start date
Mrmoustache
New member
Nice RRC, but is that a diablo parked next to it? Yours?I have a 1989. Many consider that the best year. 3.9 motor, no abs, has the BW but I have switched to LT230. Far fewer electronics than later models. As you know, maybe look in AZ and CO for good, dry, rust free ones. I guess Utah salts their roads
Blueboy
Adventurer
Yep, the one without the typical rust.
Seriously, RRCs are total rust buckets.
The front mudflap bracket holes leak into the big sponge soundproofing and the floors rust away.
The firewall rusts.
The steel substructure to which the body panels attached rusts from within.
The rear cargo area also has the big sponge that promotes rust.
Mine came from SoCal and even it had some floor rust.
Yea, there are some models with less electronics, yet, even the most complicated RRC is nothing compared to what is being sold today.
This is my 94LWB which we took over to Switzerland when we moved.
It goes back with us when we return next year.
Last edited:
This is an unfortunate post to read, as I've found a truck I'm potentially interested in. Because I'm not sure the current owner will be comfortable with me pulling up carpet and removing body panels, where are the most important places to assess rust when looking at one of these used?
getlost4x4
Expedition Leader
Firewall, fenders, front wheel wells, rear tailgare (upper and Lower), spare tire well.
Blueboy
Adventurer
upper tailgate unless replaced will be rusted. plan on replacing with an aluminum frame anyhow.
if it still has front mudflaps, the floor will be rusty. you can also repair that.
as mentioned they rust from the inside out. don't buy one that has seen salted roads no matter how nice it looks on the outside.
mine had the rear fender replaced and the steel sub-structure was still clean. it came from So.Cal. and had a blown engine. this is easy to repair versus a steel sub-structure.
my first RRC was from Chicago before I became more informed. we caught the rust, yet, it was taken down to the sub-structure which also required some repairs.
take your time and look. mechanicals are still available-interior bits and bobs not so much.
if it still has front mudflaps, the floor will be rusty. you can also repair that.
as mentioned they rust from the inside out. don't buy one that has seen salted roads no matter how nice it looks on the outside.
mine had the rear fender replaced and the steel sub-structure was still clean. it came from So.Cal. and had a blown engine. this is easy to repair versus a steel sub-structure.
my first RRC was from Chicago before I became more informed. we caught the rust, yet, it was taken down to the sub-structure which also required some repairs.
take your time and look. mechanicals are still available-interior bits and bobs not so much.
Thanks for the input, Gents. The truck is actually in Chicago-land, so pending further review, it sounds like I might be passing...
getlost4x4
Expedition Leader
Get one from Wyoming, Montana, New Mexico, Arizona or California.
If you're worried about rust, you go to the south WEST. Any place else will have rust to some degree. After living in CA for years now I'm spoiled on the rust front. Even cars I would have considered 'rust free' when I lived in the mid west now look like rust buckets to me.
OK, I'm exaggerating a bit but there's no doubt a "rust free" southern car is not really rust free compared to a western car. Even if they don't salt their roads just the massive humidity works against them.
OK, I'm exaggerating a bit but there's no doubt a "rust free" southern car is not really rust free compared to a western car. Even if they don't salt their roads just the massive humidity works against them.