RRC T-CASE

[DividingCreek]

Galen is right I was being overly optimistic suggesting you carefully test it. There's next to no chance its not toast- I think the factory manual alludes to running without a front shaft as being ok for short distances defined elsewhere as less than 100 miles.
Lt230's are $60 @ the local pick and pull here, that and a d1 front drive shaft can probably be had for less than the cost of a used viscous coupling, although I have no idea what those go for anymore (used to be $800 for a new replacement, half that for used).

 

[apexcamper]

ok...well it is seized...I really appriciate the web site telling how much torque for how long...that was awesome.

So how much trouble is it installing the LT230 over replacing the viscous?

based on the pictures they are VERY different.

Also, what are the advantages of the LT230 over the BW...are the ratios the same, is one more stout than the other...CLEARLY the manual locking is better, but are the other advantages worth the swap?
Is there already a thread discussing this?

 

[junkyddog11]

Not that it matters now but the most frequent cause of BW failure is from getting filled with EP90 (thinking it to be a "normal" T case) which will seize the VC in short order. It needs ATF.
The LT 230 advantages are
1.that it is more robust as it is gear vs chain driven. The chain is quieter but tends to wear.
2.selectable center differential
3.Available in several different (high range) ratios although not commonly in US spec (never mind the US spec thing.....just noticed you are in Germany?).

Some like the BW for its VC which is a no brainer. I have one on a LWB Tdi daily driver and wouldn't swap it unless it failed.
I'll have to head south and hit the scrappy I'd guess.......finding an LT230 around here for $60 has never happened....never mind with the linkage or the LT specific driver side mounting, and the correct output shaft if you are bolting it to an auto. Thanks for the tip Doug

 

[DividingCreek]

Bring wrenches Matt !
http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/price.htm

Scroll down to "t" for transfer case $60.37. Drive shaft will run $22.64

This outfit has 5 yards around the DC/Baltimore metropolitan area

Apexcamper swapping out the two transfer cases isn't a big job if you have the right jacks or access to a lift. I swapped the transfer case in my Defender 130 in a gravel parking lot outside Boston in about 6 hours after it failed on Mass Pike. There aren't a lot of bolts. To do the swap you remove both drive shafts, un-hook the parking brake cable, drop the trans mission crossmember, and while supporting the transfercase with a jack remove the bolts holding it to the transmission. The two should seperate easily. Installing the lt230 is pretty much the reverse. depending on what you get a transfer case out of you may need the later tailshaft for your transmission if you are using a 4hp22 automatic-they changed the length of the splines on later models. This is a simple bolt on and the swap takes less than 5 mins. The lt230 linkage into a classic will probably be your biggest hassle. The lever rubbed the far right side of the center console opening on the trucks I swapped but I didn't need to cut anything. I have seen others who have had to "modify" their center consoles.

 

[rover4x4]

I had to cut the DS coin tray out, the linkage is adjustable so it shouldnt rub. I had to cut the coin tray out to have enough throw to lock the diff.

 

[junkyddog11]

Bring wrenches Matt !
http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/price.htm

That's awesome. I wish we had that around here.

 

[David Harris]

ok...well it is seized...I really appriciate the web site telling how much torque for how long...that was awesome.

So how much trouble is it installing the LT230 over replacing the viscous?

based on the pictures they are VERY different.

Also, what are the advantages of the LT230 over the BW...are the ratios the same, is one more stout than the other...CLEARLY the manual locking is better, but are the other advantages worth the swap?
Is there already a thread discussing this?

Replacing the viscous is WAY easier than swapping to an LT230. There are instructions how to do it in the link I posted from Ashcroft. However, I think the strength and reliability of the LT230 make it a better long term, no hassle, proposition than the BW, especially with the LT230 being gear driven rather than chain driven.

David

 

[ini88]

I love my BW. If you do not do any intense off road driving I think the BW is a great match to the RRC's set up. Lots of free play and drives more like a car. I do love my lt230 in my Defender but that is because that is my more serious rig for off road use.

I do have to say, I have taken my RRC into some real bad stuff and that borg warner always kicked in when the rears slipped and always pulled me out!

 

[apexcamper]

I think for now I am going to replace the VC and keep the chain drive.
This truck will be driven on the road a lot in the short term and it's off road excursions will be mild. Although I want it for an adventure rig, once it is reliably running it will be on the back burner while we finish our Iveco Magirus mobile base camp "Maggie".

Thanks for everyone's help and input

 

[JSBriggs]

My VC experiance was that it didnt lock up. Popped a CV and 1wheel drive turned into no wheel drive.

-Jeff

 

[craig]

I had to cut the DS coin tray out, the linkage is adjustable so it shouldnt rub. I had to cut the coin tray out to have enough throw to lock the diff.

There's no need to cut the coin tray. With proper adjustment the LT230 shifter pops up in the stock location.

 

[apexcamper]

Was digging on the internet some, and have seen reference to replacing the whole T-case.

My RRC has just over 135K on the od, and I have seen that over 100k miles it will be well worthwhile considering a replacement T-case as the chain, output shaft, and pump will almost certainly need attention.

Is this truly the case, or is it just some shops wanting a little extra cash out of you?

 

[junkyddog11]

There's no need to cut the coin tray. With proper adjustment the LT230 shifter pops up in the stock location.

odd then that the factory console has the left side coin tray removed?. The side to side throw, although adjustable for location, is a bit large to fit the BW style aperture, especially if any movement under load is encountered.

 

[junkyddog11]

Was digging on the internet some, and have seen reference to replacing the whole T-case.

My RRC has just over 135K on the od, and I have seen that over 100k miles it will be well worthwhile considering a replacement T-case as the chain, output shaft, and pump will almost certainly need attention.

Is this truly the case, or is it just some shops wanting a little extra cash out of you?

A well looked after BW is good for much more than 100k. Problem is finding one that has been correctly maintained.
Swapping over to an LT230 is not really a quick fix but IMO well worth it.
The *easy* fix is a replacement VC.

 

[craig]

odd then that the factory console has the left side coin tray removed?. The side to side throw, although adjustable for location, is a bit large to fit the BW style aperture, especially if any movement under load is encountered.

When I went to do my install, I thought the console had to be cut too. I was pretty happy when my friend Gord'n Perrot at Lamorna Garage was able to install mine and was able to do so in a way that has the knob coming up in the stock location. It fully engages, has full throw, and has been used under load. Gord'n has done the same install on several of my friends RRCs, dozens of customers, and several of his own RRCs. They've all been used heavily off road, towing, etc. If I recall correctly, the trick is putting a slight bend in the linkage at just the right location.

I know that PT Schram (hit up http://discoweb.org) has also done several this way.

I think I posted a couple of pics in my build thread (Craig's 89 RRC) of mine.

Craig