Rugged External DC Hookup [for Portable Solar Panels]

[carbon60]

So I have a permanently installed panel and a portable "suitcase" panel. I want a nice, clean, and rugged connection for the suitcase panel when it is in use. Comes with MC4, but I can rectify that if required.

I really like my stuff to be able to withstand the abuse of yours truly, a dimwitted 200lb gorilla. And my ************ climate, here in Ottawa.

I see that Anderson has nice weatherproof booties to clothe your SB50s:

But I don't see how to mount that, easily.

Oh, and please do not suggest some incredibly well thought out and high quality Aussie product that I can't get my dirty ******** beaters on.

Ideas?

Thanks,

A.

 

[Superduty]

Go with the Anderson. I recently used the weather proof boot on an install and i drilled through the boot to match the mounting holes that are in the Anderson. It worked well.

Obviously you need a surface to mount the Anderson.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Alloy]

I use the Pico (copy of Anderson) for our solar 4 (8ga) portable solar panels and 100 amp (2ga) truck charge plug.
Didn't go with rubber boots as they will hold water. I heat shrunk the wires/lugs and use a tiny bit of Fader (silicone) gease on the contact surfaces. Each plug has a dust cap when not in use.

 

[krick3tt]

I use these. Already a hole in my ARB bumper for it. Just a little enlargement to fit.

Amazon.com: TOEDUK Solar Weatherproof SAE Socket sidewall Port,SAE Waterproof Quick Connect Panel Mount : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com: TOEDUK Solar Weatherproof SAE Socket sidewall Port,SAE Waterproof Quick Connect Panel Mount : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

The foldable solar panel plugs into it and then into the solar controller to charge the aux battery.

 

[dreadlocks]

This is what my trailer has on it for external solar: https://www.amazon.com/SolarEnz-Waterproof-Universal-Flush-Mountable-Connector/dp/B07L8GT57R then you go from that to MC4: https://www.amazon.com/Dunhil-Adapter-10AWG-14-8in-Solar/dp/B07G2GQXTH/

You should put the controller inside near the battery and run the higher voltage over the longer distance.

 

[krick3tt]

Same piece of kit from a different place. That being said....No no no Never put a solar controller where it is exposed to water, not good.

 

[IdaSHO]

I've stuck with MC4 connectors and plugs/caps for my deploy-able array.

It keeps things consistent, as I use 10AWG high strand solar conductors for all my solar wiring.

Hundreds of connect/disconnects and so far so good, and always have a solid, weather tight connection when hooked up.

Even if the clips fail, its an easy swap out.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Internet DIY crowd has inflated the Anderson ********** to extremes. If you dont mind a surface mounted lump, perhaps Google images of ”two pin circular connector”.
Dont misunderstand, Andersons are ’ok’ for alot of stuff, but if you need something strongly weatherproof, there are much better options.

Powerpoles are the connectors I love to hate. There are certainly better options but ubiquitous within ham circles unfortunately so for ARES and what-not interoperability I put them on my solar panels, too.

 

[dreadlocks]

ideally you want connectors you can chain together for use with portable panels and thats nice thing about powerpoles, sae, mc4, you dont want 100ft of wire coiled up and dropping voltage for no reason when your panels are a few feet away.. so get like 5x20ft sections and use what you need.. if you adopt a standard like powerpoles then those cables can be multipurposed, like if you want to plug in a speaker, make a really long jumper cable, stash the fridge in a bear locker and run power to it, etc.

Wiring should be UV Resistant, outdoor speaker, marine or solar cable are good options.. zip wire and indoor wiring will succumb to the elements sooner rather than later..

 

[DaveInDenver]

Bear locker fridge extension cables = @dreadlocks Tip Of The Day.

 

[dreadlocks]

true, I made all my 10awg zip wire powerpole cables like a decade ago and they still work fine.. but several strings have become severely sun bleached which makes it brittle and I'm looking at replacing em now before the shielding fails and causes bigger problems.. next set will be UV resistant so they should last much longer.

Its the strings I used for solar the most because you kinda need em to be in the sun all day, I've seen the sun destroy indoor ethernet cable in 3mo on a roof.. the UV resistant stuff holds up pretty damn well and its not like its that much more expensive.. but no its not end of the world to use indoor cables outside temporary.

 

[carbon60]

I am contemplating going a different route and using a hatch:

https://www.westmarine.com/access-hatches

Seems more flexible and prevents the requirement that all connectors be waterproof.

Thoughts?

 

[john61ct]

Andersons.

Next choice, marine connector for trolling motors.

 

[carbon60]

I would just go the cheap & fit connectors under the hood or similar then just leave the hood ajar or run the extension cord thru the gap or grille.

Unfortunately, this is for a trailer. The electrical is all in a large metal box on the tongue, with side opening doors.

 

[dreadlocks]

hrmm, a port hole seems simple and easy.. but I once got up in middle of night, crawled out of tent and as I was walking by the car I heard an odd noise.. opened the hood and chased off a mouse chewing on some exposed wiring.. so thats something to keep in mind.. some wires coming out of the bottom of that box will give em an easy path into a nice warm metal box.

Your not just trying to keep water out with fancy bulkhead connectors, but critters and bugs (damn wasps).

If you want to keep it simple, search for "Cable Gland" on Amazon, then use that waterproof cover from your original post for the pigtail that pokes out.. Anderson bulkhead connectors are not waterproof and you cant use locking pins or anything with em so lil pigtail with a cap to keep crap outta it is one of the better options.. I got lil anderson pigtail hooked up to alternator output with a plastic cap under the hood, just so I can charge batteries off tow vehicle directly and not worry about someone/wind closing hood ontop of some big clamps.