RV Refrigerators - what is the current trend?

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Great points. I do not like the idea of running a frig on propane while in transit. Also if your trailer is set up with 300 wt hrs of lithium batteries, dc/dc charger, inverter and at least 200 watts of solar and you have a isotherm type low draw 12v frig you can power the frig fine. Maybe not full time in rainy area's.
This is of course is if you don't have an AC, Microwave, coffee maker or blow dryer.

 

[Mekcanix]

hmmm I have a 3 way in my NoBo, and its been great so far, but I am keeping my eye on it and if it fails I will probably look at a 12dcv/120acv unit to replace it

 

[Martinjmpr]

I think the biggest disadvantage of the 3 way or propane/electric is that they are very complex beasts. When they work, they're great (and ours has - knock wood!) But when they fail there are a lot of things to troubleshoot: Gas supply, spark igniter, electric heating unit, GFCI, etc.

The 12v fridges require a robust battery and/or supplemental solar panels, but they have the advantage of no gas line to simplify operation (not to mention safety.) I think our next RV will likely have the 12v/120v compressor fridge.

 

[TGK]

I have a 51 year old Airstream that was renovated 18 years ago by a previous owner. It has a 5cf Dometic 2510 2-way refrigerator from 2003. I've owned the trailer for 17 years and, save for having to have it serviced a few times, it has performed very well. The freezer function is excellent. I have the ignitor fail a few times over the years and all I had to do was clear out dust and debris from near the ignitor. The only time it struggles is if the outside temps get north of 90 degrees and the sun is beating down on that side of the trailer. As I've noted earlier, I prefer this type of refrigeration for camping in the dense forest cover of the PNW and also when at coastal state parks, particularly in the winter months that don't have hookups. In December or January in Oregon, one can find lows in the 30's with continuous overcast skies as well as tree cover, that is not very conducive to solar. If I did go for a 12v fridge, I'd opt for one of the portable chest style units that offers flexibility for where it is used vs a built in. Also, if needs service, it's easy to simply take it to a service center vs having to drag a trailer, van or truck camper to wherever the service agent is located. I have no problem with solar and carry a Zamp 140w portable suitcase setup. It's functionality depends a lot on where we are camped.

 

[JaSAn]

. . .
The 12v fridges require a robust battery and/or supplemental solar panels, but they have the advantage of no gas line to simplify operation (not to mention safety.) I think our next RV will likely have the 12v/120v compressor fridge.

One doesn't need that big a system. I run a 2.0 cu.ft. NorCold compressor fridge (my biggest energy consumer) on 200W solar and 208AH GC2 batteries. Usually at 80% in morning (Trimetric 2030 reported) and 100% by 1 pm.

 

[Flyelk1]

My NL runs off my Ecoflow power pack. Usually takes about 20% overnight and then charges easily the next day with 180 w solar panel back to 100%. Great little system.

 

[BritKLR]

Lots of good advice. I run a Nevercold (aka:Norcold) 0041 ac/dc fridge in my Tiger. While it was suppose to be the top of the line, rugged marine/adventure RV fridge it's been nothing but trouble which is amplified by the lack of any customer service from Norcold. While I really like the concept of an ac/dc fridge I've learned a couple hardlearned lessons.

1) Verify build date code prior to accepting the fridge since thats what your warranty will be based from. (eg: My new in the box Nevercold was built several years before I took delivery so it was technically out of warranty when I had my first problem)
2) There is no such thing as a Nevercold "authorized" RV refrigerator repairman or service center. Sure, they are plenty of RV repair facilities but they will charge you out the ******** just to guess at what is wrong and typically won't warranty their own repair. They also hate dealing with Nevercold as a company.
3) AC/DC fridges hate hot weather. They either won't keep cool or shutdown once they get hot. Install a small, low volt computer fan over the coils(?) to help cool it so it keeps running.
4) At least with a Nevercold plan on replacing the thermorestor, thermostat and sensor coil as normal, routine maintenance and keep extra parts around for ongoing repairs.
5) Budget for a new house battery (runs the fridge) every 2-3 years since the Nevercold will kill it.

Cheers!

 

[calicamper]

One doesn't need that big a system. I run a 2.0 cu.ft. NorCold compressor fridge (my biggest energy consumer) on 200W solar and 208AH GC2 batteries. Usually at 80% in morning (Trimetric 2030 reported) and 100% by 1 pm.

Yeah a 12vdc fridge once cold should be in the 2-3 amp range. My 1991 huge built in Subzero in my house sounds like a tractor pulls 7amps at start and 4-5 amps running. Shockingly its about as efficient as the new energy star fridge in our garage. The 12vdc rv refrigerators are decently efficient.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

The trend in Oz for larger RVs is to use inverter controlled domestic fridge freezers of about 200-210L capacity.
Apart from being very efficient (much better than 12V units), they are cheap.
Our existing vehicle has a 130L 12V Victrifrego (Italian) that has been excellent for 17 years. The new build is getting a 208L Panasonic SR227MW 2 door fridge freezer. We will be all electric or diesel with no propane.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[charlieaarons]

Combustion of 1 single 20 lb propane cylinder releases the same energy as 150 lb of nitroglycerin. Why the difference? Hydrocarbons don’t have to pack oxygen atoms around, they’re “free” in the atmosphere. Of course diesel is similar but it doesn’t easily form a fuel-air explosive, propane can and sometimes does.
As far as “hairdryers, coffee makers and microwaves”, what’s the duty cycle on those? Infinitesimal; maybe minor on the microwave. AC is a different matter. Happy to be rid of propane in my vehicle. As mentioned in other threads, I’ve personally seen 2 RV fires in progress, probably fueled by propane, in my home city and Toulouse, France.
The cylinders will grill many burgers, steaks and shashliks on my safe, open deck of my house.

 

[Treefarmer]

Someone out there please answer this question: Has anyone used a 12V 10 cuft fridge that has been dependable for more than seven or eight years? We have gone both the absorption and the 12V path over the last 11 years of full time RV living. Our Dometic absorption 10 cu ft. lasted nine years, but it ate up propane and electricity like crazy. When it finally failed, it didn't just stop working, it tried to burn our rig down (luckily it was about 11AM and we were around to catch it before disaster struck). We replaced it with a Norcold 10 cuft 12V which worked great for just under a year before it died and Norcold wouldn't honor the warranty because the unit died four days after the warranty expired. We replaced it with a 12V Dometic which is currently still working after three months of use. It seems to me the 12V units work great until they don't (usually after a short period of time). Just read the Xplore threads about all the problems with the Furrion 12V units. These units are also incredibly expensive (all over $1,000). Maybe the best route to go if you want something 10 cuft or so is to install a residential 120V unit? You would have to run your inverter 24/7, but they are cheaper. Maybe 12V technology and durability just isn't there yet. I want 12V to work, but the cost and reliability just hasn't been there for us (yet). TIA!

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

Buy a domestic 120V fridge with inverter motor and a small, good quality 12V to 120V inverter to run it.
Cheap, efficient and reliable.
Many who want larger units in Oz are doing this.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[Oscar Mike Gulf Yankee]

I have a Kenmore 110V dorm fridge, about 12 cuft, bought it at SAM'S 7 years ago. It keeps the beer cold outside on the back porch bar plugged in at all times. It moves to the toyhauler and plugs in to a Bluetti 200P with 600 watts of panels. On a 4 day trip the 200P never got below 80%, 3 days of good sun for about 6 hours each day and cloudy but workable the rest of the time.

I don't know the efficiency rating of the Kenmore but it must be pretty good and I don't know if the inside light stays on all the time or not.

I picked up a 12V compressor "truck fridge", about a 2 cuft, at a garage sale last year, I tried it out and it works but I haven't used it. It will fit nicely on the pontoon boat and power it with a Bluetti EB3A 600/1200 unit with 200 watt suitcase panel. All this could go in the F 150, but probably not worth the room lost in the Cherokee or the motorcycle trailer.

With the advancements of solar I don't see a need for a propane fridge. These dorm fridges with a small freezer just can't be beat if you have the room, they are cheap and when it fails it's easy to replace one.

 

[Martinjmpr]

My question would be, how big of an inverter would you need to constantly run a home type fridge? I don’t actually know, but I’m assuming somebody out there does. Then, there would be the issue of how much total draw would you have from both the fridge, which is not running all the time, and the inverter, which is. I’m assuming, inverter also has a fan that is constantly running to. I’m not saying it’s not a good option, but I would want to know the numbers, all of the numbers, before I switched from propane to all electric.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Treefarmer]

Lots of good advice. I run a Nevercold (aka:Norcold) 0041 ac/dc fridge in my Tiger. While it was suppose to be the top of the line, rugged marine/adventure RV fridge it's been nothing but trouble which is amplified by the lack of any customer service from Norcold. While I really like the concept of an ac/dc fridge I've learned a couple hardlearned lessons.

1) Verify build date code prior to accepting the fridge since thats what your warranty will be based from. (eg: My new in the box Nevercold was built several years before I took delivery so it was technically out of warranty when I had my first problem)
2) There is no such thing as a Nevercold "authorized" RV refrigerator repairman or service center. Sure, they are plenty of RV repair facilities but they will charge you out the ******** just to guess at what is wrong and typically won't warranty their own repair. They also hate dealing with Nevercold as a company.
3) AC/DC fridges hate hot weather. They either won't keep cool or shutdown once they get hot. Install a small, low volt computer fan over the coils(?) to help cool it so it keeps running.
4) At least with a Nevercold plan on replacing the thermorestor, thermostat and sensor coil as normal, routine maintenance and keep extra parts around for ongoing repairs.
5) Budget for a new house battery (runs the fridge) every 2-3 years since the Nevercold will kill it.

Cheers!

We had the same experience with Norcold. Buyer berware! They're customer service is particularly horrible. It looks like we stick to Dometic for now on the 12V side. Norcold and Furrion are definitely on our no go list forever. If a residential refridgerator could withstand the bouncing of traveling in an RV, then we would definitely consider going residential 120V in the future.