San Francisco to Tierra Del Fuego leaving Nov 2010 (Nissan Xterra)

coydogsf

Adventurer
Hi Dave (and Ann)!
Was fun seeing you in SF! Great job on your webpage! We plan to cross the border to Mex/Baja in a couple of days. Hope to see you when we get back to the mainland a few weeks after that..

Safe travels!
E&M

Hey Malin and Espen!

Have a great time in Baja. Stop in Catavina for some bouldering although my last climbing trip there, we found the granite to be pretty flaky. Like Joshua Tree without years of people stripping the loose stuff off.

We're planning on being in San Pancho and Sayulita (just North of Puerto Vallarta) for Thanksgiving and a few days after. We'll keep an eye out for you.

Go team Nissan!

Dave
 

Ruined Adventures

Brenton Cooper
Oh, I hear you on this one. Come on people! You know us to be reasonable, responsible individuals. Don't you think we've done the research, thought it through, and are aware of some degree of heightened risk?? You can worry if you want but we're excited and would rather talk about the potential for great experiences!

Edmundo (efuentes) recently posted A very good take on Mexicowhich spurred some interesting discussion. Send your FIL the first post in the thread.

Note: we did cave to familial pressure the other week and got a SPOT tracker. Will be fun to have people be able to follow along and nice to have a little extra piece of mind (our location is known plus the 911 service for whatever it's worth). $150 for the device at REI plus $100/yr for a contract. Search online for a PROMO code that will get you the add'l $50/yr tracking for free. We also splurged on $12.95 (!) for an extra $100K of search and rescue from GEOS, the people who get the 911 call.

Dave
Thanks for the heads up on that thread, not sure how I've missed it but that first post totally sums up my feelings on Mexico.

Here's my rant: I've been to Mexico many times and I've felt very safe. Driving around border towns, backpacking thru Central Mexico and the Yucatan...When I think back to every time that I did NOT feel safe in Mexico, I can honestly say I've feared for my safety just as much in the US...actually, on MORE occasions. Every iffy situation in either country has simply been a case of "oops, i think I walked into the WRONG neighborhood...better make my way outta here". I can honestly say that strangers in Mexico are friendlier than many of the strangers I meet in the states. It's sad but true. Attempting to communicate in spanish goes a long way towards making quick friends down there.

Last year I saw the 1st generation SPOT messenger's at Cabela's for $75. Being the gear-junkie I am, I picked one up. I originally bought it for backpacking trips in remote areas of the US, but it will be perfect for use on a Pan-Am trip for the reasons you mentioned. The service is definitely not cheap, but I've taken it on so many trips this year I feel like it's paid for itself. I like to think of it as an emergency beacon & remote travel insurance :sombrero:
 
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coydogsf

Adventurer
Gone

9:45 am was the agreed upon departure time. The past few days had been filled with moving our stuff down into our spare room that would be locked up while the renters lived upstairs and cleaning the house so the maid service we hired wouldn’t think we were slobs. We’d been living off of the 7 days of clothes we’d have with us on the trip and organizing the everything else in the garage in a loose representation of where it would eventually go in the truck. It felt good to just grab the first t-shirt off the top of the stack and know it was one of your 7 favorites.

The night before had been a birthday dinner for a friend so we’d gotten a chance to see everyone. Goodbye’s on the sidewalk outside the restaurant afterwards were bittersweet, knowing that we might not see the friends that are such a big part of our daily life for the better part of a year while being excited to get home, finish a load of laundry and get to sleep. A twinge of selfish guilt that they were sad to see us go but that we got to look forward to our big adventure.

At 9:30 am, our intertwined but distinct packing tasks, Ann loading books and maps into “the library” while I tried to figure out why nothing that used to fit in the side wings of our storage system seemed to be fitting now, found us both in the garage. I said “15 minutes,” both of us knowing that it, like most would be in the next months, was a soft deadline.

Fortunately, we caught a glimpse of the yet-to-be-packed sleeping bags and linens piled in a corner of the garage (our layout of packing locations on the garage floor didn’t provide an obvious place to put the stuff that would be in the roof tent) and stuffed them into the backseat along with the dog and miscellaneous other items we’d be dropping off on the way out of town. By 10:00 am, we pulled away from the curb, sitting side by side in the truck that would be our home for the foreseeable future.

But don’t cue the “open road” music quite yet. We still had to get bagels and coffee, swing by the travel clinic for Ann’s last shot, drop off the dog and say goodbye to my Mom, reinstall a printer on a friend’s computer, get sandwiches and stop by my office before we were finally pointed towards Yosemite, our destination for the night.



Gorilla didn’t like the way this was going…



Once, on 580 heading east, we looked at each other from time to time and say things like “It’s a nice day. We should drive to Argentina.” Or “So I guess we’re really doing this, huh?” Or in feigned distress, “We have to go all the way to Yosemite? This is such a LONG DRIVE!” All in between last chance spurts of texts, emails and social networking as the cell connection became increasingly intermittent.





As we drove through Crane Flat, the sun was down and the light rain was just starting to turn to snow. As the headlights swept the roadside, the ground turned white and trees showed a coating of snow. To her credit, Ann said nothing about our planned first night of camping, but I reassured her anyway that Yosemite Valley was quite a bit lower and shouldn’t be so cold.





Once in the Valley, signs emerged out of the pitch darkness pointing in all directions towards picnic areas and the various amenities of a huge, well-established national park. I explained that we’d better head to the Visitor’s Center to figure out where the campground I’d booked was located. It wasn’t until we were driving through the grand, historic gates of the The Ahwahnee Hotel that she figured it out that we wouldn’t be camping tonight. C’mon, this is a honeymoon after all…
 

coydogsf

Adventurer
Let us know when you will be coming through Guatemala/Belize - we are here doing a few expeditions. Share a Beer and a swap stories?
(Angela & James) of No Limit Expeditions

Sounds great! First border tomorrow - Mexico. I expect it to be a complete let down if it's anything like the last time I crossed. No cavity searches or nothing. Didn't even stop us... ho hum.

Just wondering, why didn't you take your dog along ? Dogs make for great security.

And Jerry Yukon, we didn't want to have to worry about our little dog in hot cars/bars/etc. We'd have been much more worried about her security the whole time than glad for any security she provided us. She's got a good home at Grandma's.

Dave
 

coydogsf

Adventurer
Thursday, November 11, 2010

Fall in Yosemite Valley




According to the coffee table book in the room, the first guests handpicked to attend the grand opening of The Ahwahnee Hotel in 1927, helped themselves not only to majestic views of the granite walls rising on all sides of the regal lodge, but also to many of the items adorning the guest rooms from pewter ink wells to hand-woven Native American artifacts and delicately embroidered sheets. We can never hope to live up the accomplishments of previous generations, but rest assured, Ann’s backpack was bulging with about 15 bottles of earth-friendly lotions, soaps and shampoos. Oh and this guy…



He now rides on the dashboard keeping a vigilant eye on the horizon. Working names thus far include Ranger Duck, Smokey the Duck and Quacker Texas Ranger but we’re open to suggestions.

The Revenue Cutter Service was established in 1790 to patrol the waters off the East Coast for smugglers seeking to bypass the tariffs so essential to the fledgling democracy of the United States. It merged with the Life Saving Service in 1915 to form the Coast Guard, making it the oldest continuing seagoing service of the military, but you already knew that I’m sure. Believe it or not, we didn’t until taking our seats for breakfast in the massive dining hall of The Ahwahnee, an action which, also unknown to us, signified that our conversation was open to the public and that anyone with an interesting tidbit, mundane to the discussion or otherwise, was invited to jump in at any time with a juicy factoid. It seemed to just be the code of the room. In the end, listening to the good natured story-topping of enlisted exploits being lobbed between the few tables around us was actually a fitting way to spend a Veteran’s Day morning. Still trying to prove that our generation had valuable skills (like recycling), we asked for a doggy bag for the remainder of the basket of pastries. Klassy…



“You all headed home?” the bellman asked, as I’m sure he did a hundred times a day. It’s friendly a question which I think every long-distance overlander both secretly hopes for and dreads.

“Well, we’re actually heading south. Tierra del Fuego as a matter of fact.”

“Huh. Heard of it… but can’t quite place it, “ he responded, giving us the impression that he was picturing something along the lines of “Del Boca Vista,” the retirement community where Jerry Seinfeld’s parent’s lived in Florida.

“Argentina. Like at the bottom of South America,” I offered.

At this point, he emitted the desired sigh; the one that communicated an appropriate admiration of the scope and weight of the trip we were undertaking. But then, he kinda ruined the moment.

“Is that like 5,000 miles?”

“Well… more like 15,000 miles,” I countered.

“You mean 1,500 miles.” At this point, it was me who sighed.

“Nope, 15 THOUSAND.” I emphasized. “Say it’s 3,000 miles across the US. Drive south that far and you’re barely through Mexico.”

Here he chimed in that we better be taking a boat around Mexico if we didn’t want to get killed. This fulfilled the “dreaded” part of the conversation.

“Another 2,000 and you’re to the Panama Canal. Then look at South America on a map. It’s HUGE. Another 10,000 to the bottom.”

He took a step back, looked the truck over from front to back and through the open side door at the coolers, Action Packers and sleeping bags piled in the back seat and apparently accepted my approximations by responding simply, “Well, that explains it.”

We spent the morning driving around the valley, hiking out to Mirror Lake and taking countless pictures of the incredible Fall colors.



It was already 3:30 by the time we started up Highway 41 towards Wawona and the southern exit of the park. Acknowledging that the “no driving at night” rules didn’t start until we crossed the border, we fired up a couple podcasts and sped south into the 4:45 sunset, still seemingly premature after last week’s daylight savings adjustment.

We nixed the idea of sampling one of Bakersfield’s surprising number of Basque restaurants after reading glowing Yelp iPhone reviews of the various ox tail soups and escargot platters. We’d been tempted to sample some of the local delicacies while traveling for a month in France this summer and well, let’s just say, it didn’t go well. Read about trying “andouillete” (scroll towards the bottom of the post).

So with that in mind, the La Quinta Inn on Merle Haggard Blvd in Bakersfield was made all the more inviting by its location across from the “Flagship Denny’s.” That’s right, the guy at reception had informed us that corporate bigwigs from throughout the organization would frequently come to this very Denny’s to take note of its operations. And sure enough, within seconds of walking through the doors at precisely 8:03 pm, we heard a cheery “Good morning!” When I quipped that the woman behind the counter must have had a long day if she thought it was morning, she didn’t miss a beat before responding “It’s always morning at Denny’s.” Textbook…

As we settled onto the bed at the La Quinta, we flipped on the TV. There over the shoulder of the newscaster was a picture of a 2000-something Nissan Frontier pickup truck. We turned up the volume just in time to hear her detailing a recall by Nissan of some model year Frontiers and, of course, 2000 – 2004 Xterras for an issue with the steering column. Classic. We called Nissan in the morning and they said the recall had not been made official yet and that dealers wouldn’t have any information until December. Guess we’re going to be getting to know the Nissan dealer in Puerto Vallarta.
 

coydogsf

Adventurer
A little catch up on the trip...

Unfortunately, the weekend before we arrived in Yosemite, Tioga Pass received enough snow for them to close it for the season. That meant we could either backtrack north to the next open pass or just head south on the west side of the Sierras which is what we ended up doing.

After one night in Bakersfield, we drove into Joshua Tree National Park where we ended up having such a great time we stayed an extra night. The whole story on the blog in Joshua Tree.




From Joshua Tree, we positioned ourselves just north of the border in Tuscon and used the truck crossing in Nogales on Monday morning. Having gotten a late start, we ended up only a couple hours south in Santa Ana de Magdelena but found an interesting rancho that makes for a great first day stop. The whole story on the blog in US to Mexico.




From Santa Ana, we'd been told about another overnight spot called San Carlos. Honestly, we didn't see much we liked other than a clean RV park with wireless and laundry and were ready to continue south to Los Mochis where we met ExPo member, efuentes. Edmundo played tour guide and set us up with an amazing place to camp before we moved on to El Fuerte. The whole story on the blog in San Carlos, Los Mochis and El Fuerte.





From El Fuerte, we boarded the Chihuahua Pacifico train line for a few days in Copper Canyon. We opted to ride instead of drive over safety concerns and while my guess is that it would have been fine, it was nice to get out of the car for a while. And the Barranca del Cobre was everything people say about it. The whole story at on the blog at Barranca del Cobre.






We spent a couple nights in Mazatlan hanging on the beach and exploring the old town before arriving in San Pancho, just north of Sayulita and Puerto Vallarta, to stay with some friends over Thanksgiving. We're enjoying the people and hospitality and checking out the small town now and will be back on the road in a week (or so!).

I've made a couple neat tweaks to the web site including the ability to view posts by their locations on our GPS tracks. Check it out if you're interested.

Dave
 

coydogsf

Adventurer
Mazatlan had a little bit of everything. A great campground (if a little pricey) right on the beach and anything "resorty" you could want from bars and nightclubs to a huge MEGA grocery store and an Applebees while at the same time featuring a European feeling, beatiful and quaint old town. The whole story on the blog at Mazatlan and Two Week Impressions.









From Mazatlan, we went to San Pancho, just north of Puerto Vallarta, to stay with some friends through Thanksgiving. A great house, comfortable room (other than the scorpion which you'll have to read about) and a sleepy little town with just what we needed and it was hard to limit the stay to only a week. The whole story on the blog at San Pancho Thanksgiving.







If you're in the area, you can't miss a trip to Tequila, the Napa Valley of the agave harvest. We took a tour of the Herradura distillery and stayed in town for the beginning of the Festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe. With the amount of fireworks and distilled spirits present, I'm surprised the town didn't burn to the ground. The whole story on the blog at (da da, da-da) Tequila!












Next stops (we're a week behind on the blog) are Guadalajara, Patzcuaro, Morelia, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende.

Dave
 

Ruined Adventures

Brenton Cooper
I was just looking at your pictures of Guadalajara. It's been at least 5 years since I was there, and I frequented many of the same places over 2 weeks... I forgot how magical that city can be. Thanks for sharing the experience! Now I know I have to go back soon. The pictures of Tequila brought back good (and painful) memories too!

Tip for anyone going to Guadalajara: no matter how close the zoo seems, don't walk there. The signs are lying, this zoo is not as impressive as people say and it's NEVER within walking distance. TRUST ME ON THIS.
 

unURBAN

Adventurer
Next stops (we're a week behind on the blog) are Guadalajara, Patzcuaro, Morelia, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende.
Dave

Hi Dave!

We are coming up behind you! On our way now to Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende... Check you rear view mirror and look for us evry now and then! Plans for christmas???

E&M
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Dave and all,

I was hoping to catch you all around xmas but that it is not likely to happen.
We are stuck in London and apparently no flights available for a few days, which means I have to delay the departure from SF.

:(

We might see you in Antigua...
 

coydogsf

Adventurer
Hi Dave!

We are coming up behind you! On our way now to Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende... Check you rear view mirror and look for us evry now and then! Plans for christmas???

E&M

Hey Espen and Malin,

Guanajuato and San Miguel are amazing. Either would be a great place to spend Christmas though the little campground in San Miguel may get full. I bet they'd be willing to squeeze your little truck in there but it might be worth dropping them an email to let them know you're coming.

We're looking for an apartment in Oaxaca as I type (any ideas anyone?) through the 26th then are thinking we'll head to Puerto Escondido on the coast for New Years before heading up to San Cristobal.

Would be fun to catch up so let us know your plans here or by email.

I was hoping to catch you all around xmas but that it is not likely to happen.
We are stuck in London and apparently no flights available for a few days, which means I have to delay the departure from SF.

We might see you in Antigua...

Christian! Bummer. Good luck getting on the road. You'll catch us eventually...

Dave
 
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