flipstah
Leaks.
Can the seals be replaced without removing the whole joint?
The bulbs were actually okay but the housing was finicky and cracked so they were replaced.
Say Hello to Garth - 1973 Series III
- Thread starter flipstah
- Start date
Can the seals be replaced without removing the whole joint?
The bulbs were actually okay but the housing was finicky and cracked so they were replaced.
flipstah
Leaks.
Checked the brakes out already and they are still good to go. It's just the ball joint area that's causing chaos, especially with the tire rub.
Arlo
Adventurer
Just remove the screws from the axle and tie out the connected remaining things out of it. It's heavy!
And replace the inner seal.
In fact the bowl is damaged you have to replace it. The new seal will be leaking again in a short time.
flipstah
Leaks.
I'll inspect it closer on the weekend to see if the bowl needs replacing.
Received my oil analysis from Blackstone Laboratories on the original oil before the change to Pennzoil High Mileage 5W30:
Hey Flipstah,
I agree, the gaiters should not be holding the oil/grease in, that is the job of the swivel ball seal. The gaiters just keep the dirt out and allow the seals to last longer.
I've done the equivalent procedure on my solid axle Land Cruiser and will be attacking the swivel ball seals on my Series II in the next few weeks. I'll let you know when I have the time/parts and you can pop over to see what you are getting into.
Cheers
Jeff
I agree, the gaiters should not be holding the oil/grease in, that is the job of the swivel ball seal. The gaiters just keep the dirt out and allow the seals to last longer.
I've done the equivalent procedure on my solid axle Land Cruiser and will be attacking the swivel ball seals on my Series II in the next few weeks. I'll let you know when I have the time/parts and you can pop over to see what you are getting into.
Cheers
Jeff
flipstah
Leaks.
Just hit me with a PM, Jeff!
Good start to the weekend!
Cleaned the air filter but sourcing out the original oil bath air filter.
Meanwhile, the gearbox got a new gasket mounted:
CB antenna is mounted now with an aluminum extension:
Enjoyed the best upgrade so far:
So relaxing to drive now! :clap:
Stabilizer and other
I did not see if anyone answered your previous question about the bracket. It is for a stearing stabilizer. I am also attaching a photo of my engine bay. Its not exact but it is getting there, my rad is from a series ii.
Make sure you keep oil in your overdrive filler plug is under center seat with a dip stick.
Welcome to series ownership.
I did not see if anyone answered your previous question about the bracket. It is for a stearing stabilizer. I am also attaching a photo of my engine bay. Its not exact but it is getting there, my rad is from a series ii.
Make sure you keep oil in your overdrive filler plug is under center seat with a dip stick.
Welcome to series ownership.
flipstah
Leaks.
Thanks for those pictures and tip on how to reach the overdrive. What kind of shock is that on your steering stabilizer? I'll see if I can get the same one locally.
flipstah
Leaks.
This is a Series IIA, with a lot of mods to list.
Met up with someone from the Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts (ALRE) Club and passed on words of wisdom. For example, he informed me that my engine is more than likely a military rebuild, the leaf springs will always lean and just need spray graphite, how to change the main gear with just 6 screws, and how he custom machined his fuel tank for 120L!
I am a wiser man today.
EDIT: Also put new speedo cable in but still dances so definitely needs a new speedometer but really, my smartphone can do it for me and that's how I found out my top speed is 97kph lol.
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flipstah
Leaks.
In my truck, either we share or you can walk back home lol.