seanpistol's 01 Tundra

River19

River19

Observer
That is the brake line setup I wanted to install a month ago, however I ended up just bending new hard lines and going from there. Looks like the wheeler's kit is about $73/wheel or so plus some new banjo bolts, right?

I may think about swapping to that setup in the spring however.

What/where did you get the clamp that the stainless line is threaded through? I like that setup......I hate the stock setup which now has some zip ties involved......
 
TwoTrack

TwoTrack

Buy Once, Cry Once
Wheeler's sells them as a set for $72.50 + ~$15 for the banjo bolts. Not a bad deal. They also come with the line brackets.

TF-Bline-07X.jpg
 
seanpistol

seanpistol

Explorer
I got the clamps from work. We use them for routing wires or keeping hydraulic lines in place. You should be able to find something similar at any hardware store.



After chatting with Addison and others extensively, I believe my issue is in the alignment. Here is a post I just made on TS-



Interesting info here. I have Camburg uniball UCA's and coilovers that use a 16" coil with stock lower arms. This large coil extends much further down than the stock shock, and because of this I smashed my brake hard line on the bottom of the coil.

I have been chatting with a guy that runs the exact same coilovers, with Total Chaos UCA's, and his brake hard line that comes out of the caliper is nowhere close to making contact. He informed me that his TC UCAs have 3 degrees of caster built in for a max of 5 degrees positive caster.

My caster is currently at 1.5 on the driver side and 2.1 on the passenger side. I asked for both side to be at 2.0 per DJ's specs, but was asked to come back next week per the alignment shops excuse.

Camburg claims to have built in caster as well. I'm going to call during business hours tomorrow, but am wondering if the 2.5 to 3.5 degrees posted directly above will be in addition to the 2 degrees max camber in Toyota's specs, making the acceptable range up 4.5-5.5 degrees.

This picture doesn't do a good job of showing the problem, but my replaced brake line with banjo bolt is directly below the coilover at full droop while at full steering lock shown here. With the right compression and steering lock, it will certainly smash again.



If I can push my lower ball joint another inch further forward, I'd be miles away from hitting the brake line on the coilover. I believe I need to increase my caster to the vicinity of 4.5 degrees positive.
Click to expand...

Spoke to Camburg this morning. They said their upper arms do have 2.5-3 degrees of caster built in, and the alignment tech needs to fully max out the caster first, and then set the camber and toe. The final caster will depend on the ride height, but should be in the 4 degree vicinity, give or take.

Getting the truck aligned in an hour and a half. Firestone won't align anything over 2.0 degrees of positive camber, even though the geometry changes with the upper a-arms, and makes the front a completely different thing. This is because they don't actually know how to do an alignment, and are just able to read a computer screen and do what it tells them. Firestone did refund what I paid for the lifetime alignment and I am taking it somewhere else that was recommended on the local 4x4 forums.
 
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W

wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
I agree, camber/caster need to be addressed, however, If I am seeing the issue correctly based on those pictures and your smashed hardlines, the point of contact your worried about is where the banjo fitting connects to the SS line, correct?

If so, would switching to a 45 or 35 degree fitting, pushing the orientation of the fitting more toward the front of the truck and if you had a 2-4 inch longer line, could you not run the line up and over the caliper to move it further away from the spring?

Such as....
51_DA7_C71_8_F89_47_A7_83_FD_2_BD492_C5_B0_A5_1.jpg


Yes, I do know you just bought these lines... lol
 
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seanpistol

seanpistol

Explorer
wrenchMonkey_ said:
I agree, camber/caster need to be addressed, however, If I am seeing the issue correctly based on those pictures and your smashed hardlines, the point of contact your worried about is where the banjo fitting connects to the SS line, correct?
Click to expand...

The bolt itself would be the contact point.

wrenchMonkey_ said:
If so, would switching to a 45 or 35 degree fitting, pushing the orientation of the fitting more toward the front of the truck and if you had a 2-4 inch longer line, could you not run the line up and over the caliper to move it further away from the spring?

Yes, I do know you just bought these lines... lol
Click to expand...

I actually made the lines long enough to do this. When rotating the banjo fitting towards the front of the truck, it actually orients perfectly. A 35 degree fitting would be too much. BUT, I moved the orientation the way it is pictured because the line itself is not in danger of contact, just the banjo bolt.

BUTTTTTTT..............

As seemingly always the case, there is another issue at hand here!

I am using the 13WG 231mm calipers. They were superseded by the 13WL 231mm calipers. The only difference between them is how the brake line attaches to the caliper and the distances are slightly different. The 13WL caliper has a shorter lead into the fitting than the 13WG. The female that accepts the line points down-wards at an entirely different angle on the 13WL caliper. The 13WG is pointing straight out. It's hard to see in photos, but here is the 13WL.

cqeTylT.jpg
 
seanpistol

seanpistol

Explorer
Posting this here in case anyone is searching the internet trying to find the answer to the same problem.

After I re-installed my third member after the regear, the air locker wouldn't work. The compressor would constantly run and the locker would never engage. All the air was being pushed out my diff breather, so clearly there was a leak. I called ARB and they suggested that the copper tube could have hit the ring gear, the inner seal housing could have been been installed wrong, and the third would have to be pulled, again, for it to be checked out.

I out soapy water all over the bulkhead fitting with the compressor running and got no response. I took it apart and quickly discovered that there was an o-ring missing. This one here-

ARB-Bulkhead-Fitting.jpg


I went and got the o-ring, put it in, and BOOM! Problem solved. Glad it was an easy fix for once.
 
W

wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
Saw the Tacoma you got on TS, looks great.

Seems like everything you always wanted the Tundra to be eh?
Id love a older Taco, just not enough room for me and the girl/dogs.

Any plans on parting out anything or swapping back to stock? IE Front Suspension?
 
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