Series IIa

[shogun]

Let me start off with two items;

I know nothing about LR.
I dont much care for questions like this.

Noticed a 70 series IIa for sale and asked a few questions. Two door, 109, no major mechanical issues, tropical roof, original paint (poor), dents and dings, interior shot, rubber seals shot. Was used mostly on a ranch for runabout, origin S America, no obvious rust.

What are common "issues" with these vehicles, what are overly expensive repairs and parts availability? If a door doesnt close is it likely a bent frame and how serious is that to repair? I am not considering a full restoration, rather a DD with character but reliable. Unrealistic?

Assuming this is mechanically sound, without corrosion, but in need of cosmetic help (interior upholstery, rubber seals all around, some paint and bits), what price range would generate interest/consideration?

Gosh I hate questions like that.

 

[Velocewest]

To start off -- a Series or Defender LR is a big erector set -- all bolted together, very straightforward to repair. Generally, parts availability for a Series IIa truck is good.

The biggest problem with most older LR's is corrosion. Frames rust, bulkheads (the "firewall" where the doors and windshield attach) rust, seat boxes rust, door frames rust, the alloy skin corrodes due to galvanic reaction where steel and alloy make contact.

"Reliable" is a relative term with an old Land Rover. That said, the Series 4 banger is probably the most reliable petrol powered LR engine. With some minor updates like a Pertronix kit in the distributor and an alternator, they can genuinely be called reliable. Other "reliability" concerns like electrics are subject to the unfortunate involvement of Lucas, Prince of Darkness...

Given your Arizona location, I'll assume you have a high tolerance for heat. It's certainly possible to install A/C a Series IIa, but it's probably not worth it. The cold air would leak out faster than you could pump it in. Patience is another virtue you'll want, as a Series truck provides a very leisurely pace of travel.

I don't know enough about Series trucks to comment on price, and in the end it's personal decision what something is worth.

 

[Alaska Mike]

If a door doesn't close, it can be a bunch of things. My guess would be worn hinges or a general misalignment. Both easy enough to fix.

Individual parts are mostly available and can be be pretty reasonable. That said, they can add up depending on your goals for the vehicle. It was built over 40 years ago as a utility vehicle, so keep that in mind. A lot will have worn, rusted, or fallen away over the years.

The engine will likely be underpowered for the size of the vehicle (by modern North American standards). If the axles and drivetrain aren't leaking, they're likely empty. The transmissions aren't the strongest things out there. The rear axle shafts snap at the most interesting times. The frames and bulkheads (firewall) are the only major steel parts of the vehicle, and sometimes can be nothing but rust particles holding hands. They never seal well, can be uncomfortable to drive for tall people, and they can be noisy on the road.

Those, among others, are the liabilities. I'd say the same about a lot of classic 4x4s of that same design vintage, like early Jeep CJs or IH Scout 80s. The best advice I can give anyone is to accept them for what they are or be prepared for a major project. A couple people can completely disassemble one in an afternoon with beer breaks. Reassembly may take years.

They are a unique vehicle on the road, and you'll likely get a lot of very positive comments. People can be very attached to them, and for everyone it's a litle bit different. I'm sure others will have their own point of view.

 

[dallasrover]

If she has zero rust, probably worth a couple grand at least to the right person.
Does she start up, run and is drivable?
Sagging doors may just be the hinges on the doors. But may be a rusty bulkhead as well. Just crawl around all over it to check on any rust issues.
There should be a removable cover between the front seats where you can check for frame rust. Check in the seat wells also.
Does it have an overdrive in it?
All parts are pretty much available for this truck with some searching.
If you are not concerned about turning a wrench, they are very easy to work on. It is basically a small tractor with a body on it.
You would for sure have a rolling conversation piece.....

 

[Wander]

+1 on everything above. a 1970 is a late IIa but still has an all metal dash which changed to padded vinyl on the series III.
The shifters are also a weak spot and can snap off very clean when you least expect it. An easy fix if you weld but something to keep in mind. I just sold my 64 IIa 88 and I enjoyed every second I owned her. My frame and bulkead and mechanicals where sound and the body was very straight so my experiance was mostly driving and maintanence. She was slow but that just allows you to enjoy the trip that much more.
If you had a couple pictures it would help in giving an estimate on value. I hoping the 109 is a local AZ truck so you will avoid rust problems. From the description you gave I'd say $5k tops if the condition justifies. The market is down right now.

 

[majornerd]

The Land Rover Series vehicles were designed post WW2 to meet the need of a farmer who could not afford both a Truck and a Tractor. What was created is (IMHO) the greatest vehicle ever produced. The 1970 2A (or 2B) is the pinnacle of that vehicle.

Headlights on the fenders (not a bugeye), metal grill, series 3 windshield wipers and heater, metal series 2 pieces.

As those above have commented: check for rust on large pieces. The Series vehicles are legos, all the parts can still be sourced, but some are simply not reasonable to replace. The bulkhead and frame are two of those. The truck you are looking at is a 109 two door, not a wagon, I believe these were trucks and open bed vehicles (ie - vinyl top, not hard top and windows over the "bed") as opposed to the Station Wagons - 88" 2 door or 109" 4 door that would have had optional full length safari tops.

Things I would look for in a Series 2a or 3:
1. Little to no rust on the frame and bulkhead and most of the body (door sills, seat and battery tray, seat rails.
2. Solid engine and transmission. They did not have a syncro between 1st and 2nd, but it would need to stay in gear and shift smoothly.
3. Clean fluids, no gasoline smell in the oil and nothing creamy, dark or low. At the same time I am very weary of any fluid that looks like it is 50 miles old. Lipstick on a pig is the phrase that comes to mind.
4. Original top and tailgate on a pickup, or a safari top on a wagon. The roof vents do allow for better airflow in a hot vehicle and I prefer the safari top look.
5. Faery (sp?) overdrive. With the overdrive you can keep 60-65 mph on the freeway.
6. original light all around. I had a Land Rover that was an ex German Military version that had plastic light covers that I could never find. The stock are easy to replace.
7. Original fuel filter - the glass bowl style never needs replacing and is easy to service, plus they look cool.
8. Bonnet tire mount is complete - and the spare is OEM size. With the tire in place on the bonnet the windscreen (windshield) folds flat and makes a nice picnic table in the bush.
9. Functional PTO.
10. No pitting in the front hubs, worn seals
11. Play in the driveshafts or worn engine/trans mounts
12. Sifts easily into and out of 4hi/4lo/2hi, hubs easily lock and unlock
13. Paint - just kidding. The body is "Burmabrite" I believe, an aluminum/magnesium alloy that looks great in the desert without any paint on it at all - ask me how I know.
14. Watch for play in the steering.
15. I would really prefer a Diesel. Excellent gas mileage (20+), reliable and plenty of torque. 0-60 times in 1-2 weeks, but offroad is excellent. Set the hand throttle and go forever.

I realize that is a decent sized list, but it is all the things I remember being a pain. The first upgrade I would recommend is replacing the factory alternator with a chevy. I would probably replace the entire wiring harness if I had a diesel, and maybe on the petrol as well. I hate Lucas....