Setting a Disco I up for expedition travel

[Viggen]

Aux battery systems seem to be popular with long-range trips, and remote trips in particular. I think this can be problematic on the D1. I'll work on the assumption that RHD Discos have a similar layout under the bonnet, but my reference is LHD NAS V8. Hopefully others with more knowledge on this issue specifically will chime in.

There's room for a second battery at the front left (stock is front right) with removal of the jack. Not certain, but I think the PS pump may need to be moved slightly.

I have a dual set up with a yellow top in the left front where the jack was. It fits just fine right there. I have no idea what size it actually is off of the top of my head. The only thing that was moved was the power steering pump reservoir. Thats easily done with some extra length in the hosing.

I am completely unable to contribute to overland build recommendations as mine is not that way at all but I think that the general consensus is the build of the EW white D1. Low lift, skinny tires, snorkel, recovery points, sliders, etc... Oh, the temp gauge thing is more for the D2 than the D1. The D2 gauge is slow to react but the D1 gauge is pretty good.

 

[David Harris]

Oh, the temp gauge thing is more for the D2 than the D1. The D2 gauge is slow to react but the D1 gauge is pretty good.

I wouldn't say that a gauge that stays in the middle of the dial when the engine temp is at 235 a pretty good indicator of temperature. At least that's the case with both of my D1's. I have auxiliary gauges to monitor this fact.

 

[Viggen]

I wouldn't say that a gauge that stays in the middle of the dial when the engine temp is at 235 a pretty good indicator of temperature. At least that's the case with both of my D1's. I have auxiliary gauges to monitor this fact.

Never had any reason to doubt mine. Good coolant, good sending unit, good water pump, good gauge. In the 100+ degree humid summer, it was never inaccurate.

 

[David Harris]

Never had any reason to doubt mine. Good coolant, good sending unit, good water pump, good gauge. In the 100+ degree humid summer, it was never inaccurate.

How do you know it's accurate if you don't have an aux gauge to compare it to?
I drove around for a while thinking the engine was running nice and cool until I put the aux gauge on. Then I realized I needed rad work. Now I know it's running cool.

 

[Viggen]

How do you know it's accurate if you don't have an aux gauge to compare it to?
I drove around for a while thinking the engine was running nice and cool until I put the aux gauge on. Then I realized I needed rad work. Now I know it's running cool.

How do I know that the police officer is doing his job? How do I know that the pilot is flying correctly? How do I know that the tires are all the same pressure? How do I know that my battery is not going dead? How do I know that the snozberries actually taste like snozberries? I have no reason to doubt any of the above as they have never given me a reason to do so.

It has survived the hot, humid Virginia spring and summer without any drama. Ive wheeled it for hours at a time slogging through mud and over rocks in first gear and low range with the revs above 3k. Sitting in DC traffic on a hot summers day with the a/c cranking? Done it. No smoke, no drama and no reason to doubt the gauge at all.

Dont buy into everything you read on the internet when it comes to "known" faults. There is a whole wide world of Land Rover owners out there using their trucks day in and day out without any overheating or block issues. You go on a forum and you read bad things. You never read about the boring commute and how it did everything it was supposed to do. You read about how it overheated (but youll never read about how the temp sender was the original for 1996 or the coolant has only been properly flushed once in 15 years or how there was an obvious wobble in the water pump) and left them stranded.


And, I have checked the health of my cooling system. Every easy and doesnt involve an aux temp gauge. I have an IR temp gun and can see temps drop between inlet and outlet, measure head temp, measure opening temp of the thermostat, and measure temperatures anywhere I want to. Just as easy and more accurate than your aux gauge and can give me a WHOLE picture of whats going on. Like I said, reliable stock gauge and no reason to doubt it.

 

[David Harris]

Dont buy into everything you read on the internet when it comes to "known" faults. There is a whole wide world of Land Rover owners out there using their trucks day in and day out without any overheating or block issues.

I guess your right, faults only happen to other peoples' vehicles, so we're fine. The bottom line on the gauge isn't whether you're cooling system is working fine now, but when you do have a fault someday, and the gauge doesn't warn you in time because it doesn't start moving until you hit 240 and it's too late. That's all. It only costs 50.00 to see what you're temp is doing at all times, so why not do it? Same with oil pressure.

David

 

[Rover De Land]

the gauge is right inbetween normal and redline at around 225 f

 

[Antichrist]

Yes, 1989 to 1993 was a different version than 1994 to 1998.

Well, that was covered then in my first post. Though a 200tdi would be ok as well. Assuming they'd mate to an R380. I've never looked to see, but I think they will.

 

[TeriAnn]

Well, that was covered then in my first post. Though a 200tdi would be ok as well. Assuming they'd mate to an R380. I've never looked to see, but I think they will.

The 200tdi mates to Series four cylinder, LT85, LT95 and LT77 gearboxes.

The 300tdi mates to the R380.

 

[DividingCreek]

The 200tdi mates to Series four cylinder, LT85, LT95 and LT77 gearboxes.

The 300tdi mates to the R380.

Antichrist is correct, the 200 and 300's use different but totally interchangable clutch covers. These are aluminum castings that bolt to the back of the block that the bell housing in turn bolts to. If you remove the 200 tdi clutch cover and bolt on one off a 300 the r380 bolts right up to the 200 and vice versa. Ashcrofts also sell a special short bell housing r380 that will also mate to the 200.

In short if you have the parts, you can bolt your favorite engine to your favorite transmission with zero issues.

 

[David Harris]

Hey TeriAnn,

I'm really glad you are taking on the extension of your website to Range Rovers and Discos. Your website in the past has been a standby for me and many other LR enthusiasts, and this addition only makes it better. I did want to offer one observation that came to mind as I read your draft version. It has to do with this quote:


"But what Range Rovers and Discoveries gained in styling and comforts they lost in versatility, ease of maintenance and the ability to be completely rebuilt at home with simple tools. In other words, these vehicles now had a lifespan dependent upon body stress points, body and frame oxidation. Something the Series and Defenders do not have."

It is true that the Range Rover and Discovery can not be disassembled to the extent that a Series/Defender can, i.e. bolted together floor and body panels. However, you must clarify what you mean by body stress points being a limiting factor to their life span. If you take apart a Range Rover or Disco (and I have) you will notice that the frame/chassis is practically identical to a Defender, and therefore can be treated identically to the Defender in this regard. Yes, body oxidation would be a little more difficult to fix on a Range Rover/Disco, but the frame would be the same issue whether Defender, Range Rover, or Disco. The only real difference is the wheelbase.

Another observation was on the Range Rover Classic suspension design. Your description was right on as far as the softer springs compared to the Disco. One thing to add is that to compensate for the softer springs on the Range Rover Classic, LR added the self-leveling Boge strut to the rear axle. This mechanical/hydraulic self-adjusting, load-supporting strut allowed the use of soft springs for articulation while still providing the capability of carrying up to 1600 lbs of weight in the cargo area or hitch. This was also added to some Defender 110's. The design is a major difference between the RR Classic and Discovery, which used higher rate rear springs instead of the Boge strut. Beginning in 1994, this strut was replaced by Electronic Air Suspension (EAS) on LWB models and the following year was added to SWB Sport models as well.

Thanks again for your time and attention to the project,

David

 

[David Harris]

Hello TeriAnn,

I'm really glad you are taking on the extension of your website to Range Rovers and Discos. Your website in the past has been a standby for me and many other LR enthusiasts, and this addition only makes it better. I did want to offer one observation that came to mind as I read you draft version. It has to do with this quote:


"But what Range Rovers and Discoveries gained in styling and comforts they lost in versatility, ease of maintenance and the ability to be completely rebuilt at home with simple tools. In other words, these vehicles now had a lifespan dependent upon body stress points, body and frame oxidation. Something the Series and Defenders do not have."

It is true that the Range Rover and Discovery can not be disassembled to the extent that a Series/Defender can, i.e. bolted together floor and body panels. However, you must clarify what you mean by body stress points being a limiting factor to their life span. If you take apart a Range Rover or Disco (and I have) you will notice that the frame/chassis is practically identical to a Defender, and therefore can be treated identically to the Defender in this regard. Yes, body oxidation would be a little more difficult to fix on a Range Rover/Disco, but the frame would be the same issue whether Defender, Range Rover, or Disco. The only real difference is the wheelbase. Also, because the Range Rover Classic and Discovery 1 also shared identical drivetrains with the Defender, their maintenance considerations are also the same.

Another observation was on the Range Rover Classic suspension design. Your description was right on as far as the softer springs compared to the Disco. One thing to add is that to compensate for the softer springs on the Range Rover Classic, LR added the self-leveling Boge strut to the rear axle. This mechanical/hydraulic self-adjusting, load-supporting strut allowed the use of soft springs for articulation while still providing the capability of carrying up to 1600 lbs of weight in the cargo area or hitch. This was also added to some Defender 110's. The design is a major difference between the RR Classic and Discovery, which used higher rate rear springs instead of the Boge strut. Beginning in 1994, this strut was replaced by Electronic Air Suspension (EAS) on LWB models and the following year was added to SWB Sport models as well.

Thanks again for your time and attention to the project,

David

 

[Antichrist]

Ashcrofts also sell a special short bell housing r380 that will also mate to the 200.

Ah, right. I thought I'd seen it somewhere, but was too lazy to go look again to be sure.

 

[TeriAnn]

Hello TeriAnn,

I'm really glad you are taking on the extension of your website to Range Rovers and Discos.

Truthfully, I've only extended the models to the page I'm working on and have no plans for additional pages covering these vehicles. And I really don't know much about them, which is why I have asked for everybody's help with them. Other sites cover these models much better than I ever can. Unless someone is willing to give a 2 door RRC with 300tdi & R380 for extended duration testing.

I did want to offer one observation that came to mind as I read you draft version. It has to do with this quote:


"But what Range Rovers and Discoveries gained in styling and comforts they lost in versatility, ease of maintenance and the ability to be completely rebuilt at home with simple tools. In other words, these vehicles now had a lifespan dependent upon body stress points, body and frame oxidation. Something the Series and Defenders do not have."

It is true that the Range Rover and Discovery can not be disassembled to the extent that a Series/Defender can, i.e. bolted together floor and body panels. However, you must clarify what you mean by body stress points being a limiting factor to their life span. If you take apart a Range Rover or Disco (and I have) you will notice that the frame/chassis is practically identical to a Defender, and therefore can be treated identically to the Defender in this regard.

Well, yes and no. The Defender may have the same stress problems in the frame, but when cracks become an issue and rust is just too much for a reasonable repair you just put a new frame next to the truck, get out your socket set and screw drivers then move the body & drive train over to your new frame. A common solution with Series & Defenders but not your usual drive way project with a Disco or Range Rover. Series have the same issues. By now the entire front third of my 109's frame has been rewelded due to cracks & the frame engine mounts have been rewelded because of stress cracks too. I had some strengthening gussets added in places on the frame about 10 months ago because My truck gets used and the frame is 50 years old. When I decide that the frame is too worn out, I'll just go out and buy a D110 frame, modify it a little and switch my 109 over to being a coiler. You just don't normally do things like that with a Disco or Rangie or there wouldn't be so many going to wrecking yards.

Another observation was on the Range Rover Classic suspension design. Your description was right on as far as the softer springs compared to the Disco. One thing to add is that to compensate for the softer springs on the Range Rover Classic, LR added the self-leveling Boge strut to the rear axle. This mechanical/hydraulic self-adjusting, load-supporting strut allowed the use of soft springs for articulation while still providing the capability of carrying up to 1600 lbs of weight in the cargo area or hitch. This was also added to some Defender 110's. The design is a major difference between the RR Classic and Discovery, which used higher rate rear springs instead of the Boge strut. Beginning in 1994, this strut was replaced by Electronic Air Suspension (EAS) on LWB models and the following year was added to SWB Sport models as well.

Good stuff. Got it. Thanks David.

 

[Paladin]

I wonder if the frames under the modern trucks are destined to crack in the same manner as the earlier trucks. Even though the frame designs are similar, I would hope that 30-40 years of metalurgical advancements were applied to the steel being used in the frames of Land Rovers.

I don't know. Only time will tell.