"A thing long expected takes the form of the unexpected when at last it comes."
- Mark Twain
"I think I've discovered the secret of life - you just hang around until you get used to it."
- Charles M. Schulz
With far more energy than I normally exhibit in the early morning hours, I'm pacing around camp the morning of day 4. Today we would promptly return to the dirt and proceed north towards the Dark Canyon Primitive Area and Beef Basin. The Dark Canyon area has been of particular interest to me since first seeing the ominous name on a map years ago. The remoteness of this region and sparse reports from its boundaries further piqued my interest.
With little more then my imagination to go on, I envision a day of navigating through previously unseen geological formations, ancient trees and foliage with wildlife that resembled creatures from a Dr. Suess book. Least Heat Moon warned of thoughts that come in the middle of the night and so I must also offer that early morning imaginings are not the most solid foundation to build your day on. The Dark Canyon area, that I had so eagerly anticipated seeing, was not like a scene from an episode of Land of the Lost. The trees looked like, well, trees. But I'm getting ahead of myself as Dark Canyon and Beef Basin held numerous surprises, just not the ones I (and I would guess Darren too) was expecting.
We make our way towards Natural Bridges National Monuement and turn north towards Elk Ridge. Quickly we're climbing up a shelf road overlooking the valley floor. It's a clear morning and I offer Darren a dollar if he can find a cloud in the sky. As if in a secret mountaintop valley, we crest the summit of the shelf road and the red dirt and pinon trees sucumbs to grass, ponds, pine and aspen trees. Like a doorway we passed through without noticing, suddenly everything looks less like the red rocks of Utah, and more like the Aspen covered trails of Colorado. The quakies are everywhere! Giant pines and dense aspen groves shadow the country lane that the trail has become and I'm almost wondering if we've taken a wrong turn and wound up in the San Juans of SW Colorado.
In my haste to see more trees, I make the poor call to pass on the first turn into Dark Canyon. My map shows there are two seperate trails that will take you into Dark Canyon, and I suggest for some unknown reason to me now, that we head further north to the next trail in. What seemed like a reasonable suggestion proved to be a mistake. We pushed further on through the shady lanes to Dark Canyon Plateau and somehow missed the turnoff for the second trail. Arriving at the plateau we see Dark Canyon below us and I'm perversely dissappointed that it's not that dark. There are no other worldy geological rock formations, no Sleestax, and no Dr. Suess trees. From above, it is a beautiful valley filled with green growth and white cliffs. As I expected, this area is worthy of its own trip to explore. Now darn it, I'll have to come back.
Descending off the plateau, we proceed north out onto Beef Basin, which will lead us to the southern entrance of the Needles Section of the park. More flat grasslands and soft sandy two tracks as the Needles come into view on the horizon. We pass signs warning of the dangers of travelling this section of the trail and my mind starts to race with thoughts of the unknown up ahead. We'll be joining the Elephant Hill Trail, rated a 3.5 trail, and I'm anxious to see how my outfit handles obstacles like Coors Hill, Turn Table and the Squeeze Play. Although this section of trail is new to both of us, I'm confident with Darren's time on the rocks, we'll be able to get through it. A gate and warning signs greet us at the southern entrance of the park and the Needles are spiraling to the sky in shapes that only wind, rain and time can sculpt. Finally something that looks like it was created by Dr. Suess' imagination!
With little more than a One Way sign to tell us our position, we officially begin the Elephant Hill Trail. This is a popular trail in the Moab Area and much has been written about it. Our first obstacle is the Silver Stairs which I watch Darren descend first with no problems. As I sit perched at the top, taking in a classic view of red rocks and the La Salles on the horizon, I hear a different voice on the radio breaking in.
first guy - "We're at the stairs. Oh wait, there's some guy,
with a camper, getting ready to go down."
second guy - "Can we go another way?"
first guy - "No, we'll wait. Let
him chicken out or get stuck and then find another way around."
Now I have no idea who is behind us. Other than at trailheads, we haven't seen another vehicle all morning. I believe in trail ettiquette and if my momentary pause at the top to take in the scenery was holding them up, it was time to get moving. With their uninformed opinions still lingering in the air, I turn off my radio, shift into 4-LO and walk down the stairs with Darren pointing out my line. Like a seasoned pro (with decent ground clearance) I made it to the bottom, no problem.
Imagine my surprise when I look back up the hill to see several tricked out FJ40's, Rubicons and a popular FJ55. I say popular because if you follow Iron Pigs at all or subscribe to the new 4WD Toyota Owner mag, you've seen this urban camoed FJ55 with a 4.7 ltr V8 conversion and leather seats. I take the opportunity to snap a few pics from the bottom and it's clear to me who was poo pooing my set up earlier. One of the 40 owners gave me a glare as if either I didn't belong on this trail or he resented my navigating the obstacle with IFS and a camper. I chalk his reaction up to the fact that he's a California resident. If I had to live in California, I'd be miserable too, even if I did own a sweet yellow 40.
Squeeze Play was interesting obstacle and I'm thankful I chose a camping solution that stays with the lines of the truck. Darren made last call on Coors Hill no problem. We're near the southern end of the trail at an obstacle called Turn Table, and Darren explains that we have to back up to the next switchback. OK............ So I put commom sense on the back burner and did it, just in time to see a tight squeeze and incline that the park has partially paved to fight erosion and wear and tear. The last mile or so of the trail is wrought with steep climbs, tight squeezes, stair steps and a drop off that you want no part of. That said, we experienced no problems getting through but it would be a real blast in a shorter wheelbase vehicle.
We called it early that day after making our way out of the Needles and turned north again towards Lockhart Canyon. Darren's super "camp~sense" kicked in and he found another beaut. We made camp along Indian Creek when he starts tormenting me with rumors of tight and off camber squeezes along the Lockhart Canyon trail. I can only hope he's yanking my chain as we settle into camp and toast a few cold ones to this days amazing trails and scenery. Man, I hope he's yanking my chain.....