Seven Days in May

[kcowyo]

Did you guys record any GPS tracks? :beer:

I didn't and I don't know about Darren, but I'm sure Chuck probably did.

I was out of town over the holiday weekend. I'll be putting up the next installment of our trip later today -

 

[Ursidae69]

I didn't and I don't know about Darren, but I'm sure Chuck probably did.

I was out of town over the holiday weekend. I'll be putting up the next installment of our trip later today -

I have a GPS log from the days where we ran the White Rim Trail. I joined this trip late and KC hasn't gotten the trip report that far yet.


Just for entertainment sake, here is a link to a map of our two day route on the White Rim Trail. The halfway point was White Crack Campground at the southern end and the map includes our various side trips as well. I also attached an elevational profile of the whole trip. Gives some depth to what the mountain bikers dealt with.

 

[kcowyo]

"Only those who risk going too far, can possibly find out how far one can go. "
- T.S. Eliot

"You have much reason to celebrate your recent successes. Enjoy it but don't get cocky. You still have more dues to pay."
- my horoscope, 5/6/06 (the day I left for the trip)


Day five started with us reluctantly leaving a really choice campsite, but we still had a lot of ground to cover. Today would take us through Lockhart Canyon to Moab. There were varied reports about Lockhart, but the jist was that it was an easy enough trail. Too slow for 4HI, and too fast for 4LO seemed to be the popular opinion. I'm usually going either too slow or too fast myself, so I was looking forward to the trail and the scenes across the Colorado River.

The trail is very reminiscent of the White Rim Trail, which makes sense given their close proximitey to each other. Lots of reds, switchbacks, short climbs and hot sun. Darren is familiar with this trail and is making good time as we find our way onto the formal Lockhart Canyon scenic trail. He has let up on warning me about the trail ahead. Partially because I think he's just BSing me or maybe because he figures I'll find out soon enough, and won't that be fun to watch?

Now I don't know how everyone else's mind works when they're on the trail. When you're alone in your vehicle, amidst mind blowing scenery, confident in your equipment and travelling partners, listening to tunes on remote trails one would think that the mind, body and spirit should be in perfect harmony. The first four days I had been suspended between glee and intimidation. I was intimidated by the unknown trails and how my outfit would do. I could live with a break down if it only ruined my trip, however I wasn't travelling alone and I was sure it wouldn't be a highlight of Darren's trip, if I broke down out here.

The other half of my mind was absolutely gleeful about being on this trip and the wonders that surrounded me. Both feelings were so powerful the first couple of days it was somewhat surprising that they were waning on the fifth day. I was still in awe of everything I was seeing and experiencing. The rigs were doing well and there was still more to look forward to. But at the same time I was quietly thinking, "Wow, it's big and red. What else ya' got?" At the same time I was feeling very comfortable with the truck on the trail after several days of meticulously watching where I put each tire, how much room I had on either side and whether I had enough clearance to climb the many ledges. I had gone from intimidated to cautious. As the feelings of glee and intimidation started to fade a little, I found my mind wondering to issues in my personal life. My mind was reflecting on certain personal accomplishments, failures at work, funny things my kids had done, my parents, other expedition rigsWHAM!! and basically a life already lived. What was that? Oh crap....

Well it might not be common to speak of trail dingers on this board (might be a jinx) but after 4 and a half days of exploring some rugged and remote terrain without a scratch, it was bound to happen. No one's fault but my own. Darren was in the lead and had just climbed over some rocks in the bottom of a wash before taking a switchback up to the top. He had stopped up above to get a shot of me down on the rocks while I took a pic of his blue 'Runner against the red rock from below. From the switchback below it was a great shot. However I futzed with the camera, probably poured a Diet Coke and forgot that my rear drivers side tire was on a large rock. Darren had continued up the trail and I put the truck in drive and started rolling forward. Without easing off the rock, I rolled forward and the truck just dropped off the rock. I got bit between the rear wheel well and bumper. I won't relate what my state of mind was after that, but it rhymes with pucking fissed....

With no one to blame but myself and with only a dinged bedside, no frame or under carriage damage, I pouted a little and remembered that stupid horoscope. I had mentioned it to Darren earlier in the week and now it had become a self fulfilling prophecy. My concentration had lapsed for just a moment but that was all it took to remind me where I was and what I was doing. I spent the next hour driving and quietly beating myself up about it but figured at least I got that one out of the way with.

About the time I accepted the dent in the cosmic order of things we found ourselves on an obstacle that to the naked eye didn't look that bad. We got out and looked it over and it was certainly passable. It was a short drop down a step, off camber and would tip the vehicles heavily to the driver's side with no room for error. An error meant rolling down about 20 yards off the shelf road. With no bypass, Darren manned up and eased his 4Runner through as I snapped pics. While the obstacle itself didn't look bad, once he started I could see it was going to lurch the vehicles portside more than I thought.

Desertdude and Desertgirl have a few great photos from their time on this spot at Cruise Moab.

There are not a dozen people hanging off the sides of the 'Cruisers because there wasn't enough room inside for everyone.

This harmless looking spot could make things messy quickly.

I begin pacing around like a caged cat looking for another way over or around than the line Darren took. His Runner's low COG got him through unscathed and without me for ballast but it wasn't pretty. My own pics don't do it justice because I was too nervous watching him to take a good shot. When he got to the bottom, he did admit in characteristic understatedness, "Well that didn't feel very good." After getting the dinger earlier and seeing no solution for getting off this ledge without another dent or tipping over or **************** my pants, my nerves are frayed. For pride's sake, I won't go into too much detail, but suffice to say thanks to Darren's steely resolve and willingness to take an extra moment to fully assess the situation, he was able to guide me down with no more dents, no rollovers and with my dungarees fecal free. He did more for me than I could have for myself, so thanks Darren for not letting me make a mountain out of a molehill! :bowdown:

After this obstacle and a few others we made our way back into Moab for gas and ice. We are to meet up with Chuck (yes, we're finally to the part where you show up!), who is driving in to join us for the rest of the trip. While we are waiting for Chuck, Darren and I treat ourselves to the biggest burgers they offer at the Moab Brewery. This was deja vu from our burgers at the Atlantic City Mercantile last summer and so I propose that now it's a tradition. I doubt I'll have a hard time convincing Darren that if we're on a trip together, that we should always make time for the biggest burgers in the area. That's how traditions start you know.

Too late for burgers but right on time for sunset, Chuck rolls in ready for a few days on the White Rim Trail (WRT). We made our way north out of town and camped out near Dead Horse Point State Park. We had a fire, cold beer and enough BS to get us through the night. My nerves had thoroughly settled with the big dinner and because I was familiar with the upcoming WRT. The week of unknowns were behind me at this point and I felt proud that I had an outfit that could handle a trip like this. I take only nominal credit for getting through the week as I believe I have angels constantly watching over me and a wee bit o' the luck o' the Irish on my side. Now with a couple of good friends on my side also, I can chill and we can look forward to the WRT, kind of like a great dessert treat at the end of an unbelievable meal.

Speaking of unbelievable meals, just wait till you see Chuck make friends with the local wildlife!

 

[datrupr]

As usual, a great installation to your report thus far KC! Glad you made it through the tippy section unscathed and unsoiled. Sorry to hear about and see that ding. It's just a flesh wound Keep up the great report, I am enjoying reading it, and find myself waiting with great anticipation for another installment.

 

[kcowyo]

It's just a flesh wound

Thanks Aaron! :jumping:

I was trying to work a MP quote in here somehow. I'm still sporting the dinger, waiting to get it into the body shop. The estimate was $730, so it wasn't awful, mostly cosmetic.

The dent was a great lesson in staying focused and fresh. I should have been concentrating on where I was, not thinking about crapola that didn't matter on some trail in the middle of Nowhere, Utah. Additionally I think some emphasis needs to be placed on personal physical care while on a trip like this.

Scott has mentioned in other threads about the importance of proper rest and eating when on a trip. I can admit my diet this week consisted mostly of doughnuts, Diet Coke and rice. Getting a good amount of sleep was difficult just because I was so keyed up the entire week. I could definitely feel it about the 3rd day and in the afternoons, I was dragging. The heat, while only in the low 90's, still hits me pretty hard.

I was really wiped at the end of this day and told Darren I would be crashing as soon as we found a spot to camp. After dinner at the Brewery though, my spirits and energy level picked right back up and we sat around a fire, BSing far into the night. I can only assume that the first real meal I'd had in almost a week was the cure.

Something to think about and worthy of discussion in a thread of its own, methinks -

 

[desertgirl66]

Awesome story & photos KC!!! So glad tht you made it through the "drop off" at the end of Lockhart Basin. Yeah, that is some scary and way challenging wheeling there! Who da' thunked it?? When we were there it took 3 mid size folks to counter balance the way tippy place~~`and you guys did it au' natural!:bowdown:

 

[Ursidae69]

I'm leaving town soon for a few weeks so I figured I'd go ahead and post up some of my photos from the White Rim Trail. I first ran this trail with Mr. Scott Brady & company in the fall of 2004 and was really impressed with the beauty of it. So when KC and Darren invited me to join them on this trip, I jumped at the chance!!! :camping:

KC has a real knack for writing, so I'll just post up a few pictures and move along. :bowdown:

Couple of pictures, in no particular order. The pictures are clickable to a larger image.

Three trucks, from three different states, in a fourth state. :ylsmoke:


Me at the bottom of the Shafer switchbacks.


Couple of scenic shots.





I have a trip report on my website and there is a full album of all my images linked there. Looking forward to reading more of KCs additions to the thread before I leave on Monday.

**Trip Report Link**

:lurk:

 

[blupaddler]

Chuck,

Thanks for sharing! Have a great trip to Brazil!

 

[ChuckB]

Chuck,

Awesome report. All of you guys are making me really jealous with these trips.

Don't worry about the guy from California, we aren't all like that!!!

Chuck

 

[Ursidae69]

Thanks guys. :wavey:

 

[kcowyo]

"Adventure is a path. Real adventure — self-determined, self-motivated, often risky — forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. The world the way it is, not the way you imagine it. Your body will collide with the earth and you will bear witness. In this way you will be compelled to grapple with the limitless kindness and bottomless cruelty of humankind — and perhaps realize that you yourself are capable of both. This will change you. Nothing will ever again be black-and-white."
--Mark Jenkins

"I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth. "
--Steve McQueen

It's day six of our seven day adventure and three of us, from three different states have gathered in a fourth state to run one of Utah's most scenic drives, the White Rim Trail. None of the three of us are strangers to the WRT, having all done it at different times. It is not a very challenging trail in 4WD, but the unmatched scenery and remote feeling along the 100 miles provide the traveller with feelings of moving through a dream. It's a trail with enough beauty and mystique to beckon you back, regardless of how many times you've seen it before.

We made an early start, aired down our tires and proceeded to the Shafer switchbacks. On my first visit, it took me two hours to go two miles. I just couldn't stop taking pictures or convince myself that there was no way I could capture the scope of the view. I'm in no less awe this morning, however I have a decent idea this time of where I'll get the best shots. This morning is clear and bright in contrast to my last visit that was overcast. The early morning blue sky does things to the landscape that seem to defy logic, or at least a color wheel.

We make good time, with an unsaid understanding among the three of us, "Stop wherever and for however long you want. See you at the bottom." Chuck leads the descent and Darren and I watch him from above, as he becomes little more than another red dot in the terrain. I'm next as Darren kindly offers to get shots of us descending the switchbacks. The challenge in the switchbacks is not the trail itself. It is fairly wide and smooth. The challenge is keeping your attention on the road and not looking too long out to the horizon, and possibly missing a turn.

At the bottom of the switchbacks we take a side trail down Lathrop Canyon. I'd skipped this last time and it was a fun little trail, more technical than the main trail. Reaching the sandy bottom along the river, we stop by a boat ramp for a lunch break. Suddenly a tour boat pulls up and unloads 20 or 30 people to our little beach where they all line up to the vault toilet as if it were salvation itself. Soon there back on their way down river and we're on our way back to the main trail, heading for the Musselman Arch.

The arch is neat little stop where you can walk across a flat arch, formed who knows how many thousands or millions of years ago. Darren and Chuck make the traverse, pose for a shot and I repeat. Now my mind works funny sometimes and when I see Darren and Chuck on the arch my mind instantly remembers the great battle between Annakin and Obi Wan on Mustoufar. Yeah, I'm a Lucas geek. So we continue on our way, stopping to take pictures, peering into canyons and crevasses that promise certain and probably painful death with one misstep. I must confess that I had a peculiar dream that first night on the WRT. I didn't mention this at the time to my travelling companions, and they'll be finding out about this just as you are, when they read this for the first time. Who knows what our dreams mean or what causes them but I can only attribute most of mine to an overactive imagination.

Seeing Darren and Chuck on Musselman Arch earlier in the day had reminded me of one of the great duels in cinematic history. Throughout the day we had all admitted, like most normal people, no great love for the sheer drop offs and crazy heights we were standing on for just the right picture. I attribute those two factors to the dream in which I'm watching Darren and Chuck walk across the arch when they stop and pose for a picture. They're clowning around as if jockeying for position when suddenly Chuck loses his footing and slips. Darren reaches for him and they both fall. As if in slow motion I watch my two friends falling to the the ground below and then I instantly woke up startled, as if I'd been falling. I didn't mention the dream to them out of respect and not wanting to spook them on the second day. I file the dream under weird shite of the warped imagination and I'm so glad that not all dreams come true. But it would have been cool if they'd both had lightsabers.....

From the Arch we follow the trail by the Gooseberry camp site to the White Crack campground at the southernmost, and most remote point of the WRT. From here we'll shoot the sunset and camp for the evening. Darren and Chuck take a hike to find just the right spot to shoot sunset while I linger in camp. We were in the perfect spot as the sun set in front of us and the full moon rose behind us. Till I'm almost dizzy, I stand in one place, turning 180 degrees taking pics of the sun retiring and the moon emerging as they compete for my attention.

And in that way, the WRT is much like a child. Demanding of your attention and providing more rewarding moments than the imagination can conceive. Even my imagination. With that said, the day ended in camp with Chuck noosing some lizards and a lively discussion, about what now I can't recall. It was a little somber knowing our trip was coming to a close but no one wanted to say it out loud. Plus we still had 50+ miles to go to get back to some sign of civilization. And as with all trips, the memories will far outlast the miles. One more day to go -

 

[kcowyo]

"When you have completed 95 percent of your journey, you are only half way there."
- Japanese Proverb

"Every new beginning comes from some other beginning's end."
- Semisonic

It's May 13th, day seven of our Utah adventure. We awoke at the White Crack campground at the southern most tip of the WRT. It's halfway along the trail and by 7:30 am we're on the move, eagerly looking forward to the gifts that the White Rim Trail offers. The 15 mile creep and crawl to the Candlestick, is rife with endless views of red cliffs and walls peering down into eroding canyons. While looking at the landscape and trying to imagine how long it took for wind and rain to shape the area, you must also remind yourself that it is still evolving. Much of the area is a work of art but it is still a work in progress.

It's doubtfull that I'll ever be able to notice in my lifetime, the inevitable changes that will occur to the topography, but they will happen. They'll happen during times of war and times of peace. The landscape will evolve while the bills are due, when the dog has chewed up the remote, when the boss's son in law gets the promotion and while loved ones pass on and new loved ones are born. Everyday, no matter where you are or what you're doing, the cliffs and canyons of Canyonlands National Park are changing. A living entity unto itself. If that doesn't make you realize we are all but minute carbon specks on a tiny blue & green ball, floating around a star, I'm not sure how else to tell it.

Passsing more bike tour groups than we have all week, we're making slow progress as we offer them the trail. Pulling over frequently and trying to keep the dust down for the cyclists, we eventually arrive under Candlestick for a few group shots. Continuing north, we travel alongside the Green River as it flows south to meet up with the Colorado River. A lunch spot under the shade of some giant Cottonwood trees makes for a great stop. The heat is close to 90 degrees and Chuck takes a short hike to get some bird pics.

We had discussed earlier, taking the side trail into Taylor Canyon. This was a great call and I highly recommend the short drive into Taylor Canyon. Once we'd reached the end, but before we turned to head back to the main trail, Chuck managed to noose a Collard Lizard. He was a handsome little guy and clearly Chuck was excited to have caught such a unique lizard. Knowing absolutely nothing about these critters, I'm admiring his colors while Chuck is holding him in hands, when Chuck mentions he's heard these guys have a hard bite. In a shining example of "taking one for the team," Chuck allows the lizard to bite him on the finger, just to see how hard he bites. Whether Chuck fully anticipated the bite of this guy or how he planned to get him off, I don't know. All I know is there are few times when I have been laughing so hard while a friend was suffering in pain. The lizard was happily (look at the pic, I swear he's smiling!) gnawing on Chuck, when he finally got it to release. Did he draw blood? Yes. Was it all that bad? No, but it was a priceless moment.

With Marlon Perkins all bandaged up, we proceeded back out of Taylor Canyon to the WRT. In an effort to prolong this trip just a little longer, I propose checking out the Mineral Bottom Road before ascending the switchbacks to the Horsethief Trail that will lead us back to Moab. This was a great addendum to the trip as we made our way past the boat ramp up the trail further. We were running right alongside the Green River past a few empty campsites, abandoned mines and some creepy looking bastard who should put his shirt back on, even in the middle of nowhere.

The trail narrowed with brush and shrunk as low overhanging trees caused me to temporarily pull off my CB antennae. With the harmonic sounds of brush screeching down both sides of the truck and with no idea how much further the trail went, we stopped to assess our situation. While assessing, Chuck goes off again in search of the local wildlife. This time with his snake hook in hand, he manages to quickly find a small rattle snake. Apparently having learned his lesson from the lizard, Chuck takes some close up pics but neither handles nor offers to let the snake bite him. Well, he was my hero....

Backtracking out, we make our way up to the bottom of the switchbacks that will lead us back to pavement and civilization. On my last trip here, I did the switchbacks in the dark and with no point of reference during the climb, I vowed next time to only do this in the daylight. Now in the day light it doesn't seem nearly so bad and clearly I was worried in the dark for nothing. We quickly crest the summit and blast down the Horsethief Trail, back to nearly the same spot where we camped the night before we started the WRT. Nothing left to do but air up and plan the evening's camp situation. Chuck opts to head south towards home while Darren and I make camp nearby for a quick departure to our own homes in the morning.

We had travelled 680 total miles since the previous Sunday morning, when we first met up in Moab. Of that total, only 71 miles were on the pavement. We had traveled over 600 miles in the dirt, for seven days in some of the most remote and scenic country in the lower 48 states. We had all three come on this expedition for different reasons and probably with different expectations. Whether any of us came away with some personal enlightment or got the knots out of our rope, I can't say. There was some pride over completing this journey and some regret that it was over already. There was joy in knowing we'd have many wonderful photos to share with others and to stir our own memories. There was some sense of relief in that no one had been injured or suffered a mechanical breakdown. There was also a sense of anticipation of the next trip we might take, together or on our own.

Always the next trip....


*** A very special thank you to Darren, who I think originally proposed the idea of a quick trip to the WRT. Whether he was generously helping me air back up, spotting me off a poop stain ledge, or waiting patiently while I slept late, poured another Diet Coke and tried in vain for the perfect shot, he was there. Patient and steady, amused and amusing. That's my friend Darren. ***

*** I also want to thank Chuck, for taking time from his crazy schedule before his trip to Brazil, and coming to hang out with us. His interaction with the local wildlife was a highlight of the trip. On or off the trail, I'm a big fan of Chuck and proud to call him my friend.***


- K.C.

 

[articulate]

You bastards have some choice-ass photos.

And I mean that in the nicest way possible. :beer: Killer write up, adventure, and pictures.

Here's to life,
Mark

 

[awalter]

Superb finale.:clapsmile

 

[blupaddler]

Thank you for sharing your journey with us.

:campfire: