shawkins 1997 4Runner Build: Poor, Starving College Student Edition

[CYi5]

What are you going to use to weld them on? I bought some demello sliders for xmas and can't decide if I want to use my Lincoln 125 that I have in the garage, or drive a couple hours and use a relative's 220v Miller...I'm not sure how much juice is actually required to weld to our frames.

 

[shawkins]

I'll be using a Miller 250 MIG. The frame is 1/8" IIRC and the scab plates on my sliders are 3/16", I've never used one of those smaller 120v MIGs but I would be leery of using it to weld on the frame. Do you have it setup as a MIG or with flux cure?

 

[shawkins]

Learned two things: welding upside down while laying on your back SUCKS, and its a giant PITA welding the tops of those scab plates! I only got the one side done tonight, I'll get the other done another night this week.

 

[CYi5]

Looks good man! I believe there is flux-core wire in the 125...but it's also running gas so the welds turn out decent. I'll probably just cruise down to San Diego to do it, thanks for the advice.

 

[shawkins]

I still need to trim my fender flares and put them back on and figure out something for the front.

 

[Applejack]

What are you going to use to weld them on? I bought some demello sliders for xmas and can't decide if I want to use my Lincoln 125 that I have in the garage, or drive a couple hours and use a relative's 220v Miller...I'm not sure how much juice is actually required to weld to our frames.

I welded a set of sliders on to an '81 Toyota I had, using a Lincoln 115 it worked fine, but you do have to take your time, you have to linger in your welds a bit longer for good penetration but work with about and inch at a time and then let things cool down a bit before carrying on to prevent weak spots in the frame.

 

[RusM]

Time for an update!

I got my panhard bar on!

Bar - 4130 chromoly from Spidertrax, powder coated by my friend
Heims - XAM-10T one is right hand thread, the other is left hand
Hardware - F911 bolts, Grade 8 washers and nuts, some mis-alignment spacers

What are the specs on length on your panhard? Is it adjustable? Also, where did you order the parts? I am almost at the point of ordering and piecing together a lift for my truck. :chef:

 

[shawkins]

The chromoly link, and rod ends I got from Spidertrax. Link length: 33.5"
http://www.spidertrax.com/Chromoly-Link-L125101Y
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.37/.f

Spidertrax has these threaded inserts:
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.1284/.f
I wish I had them put one on one end of the link. That end would have to mount to the axle though as clearance at the frame mount is tight and it might not clear.

The F911 bolts, washers, lock washers, and rod end jam nuts I got from Allens Fasteners. www.allensfasteners.com

The misalignment spacers are from Poly Performance. Part number: PPM-3720-10-07
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Misalignment-Spacers-p-646.html

The overall mounting width with the rod end and two misalignment spacers fits perfectly in the factory brackets! Over all width of rod end/ spacers is 1.62" and the width of the brackets is like 1.63". The difference was so small that as I tightened down the bolts it easily closed up the tiny gap.

 

[RusM]

Thanks brother! IN reading your build thread I saw you were looking for a rear shock option to complement your c/o's. I have been looking around and found a couple of potential options, let me know what you think.

So I've really been obsessively researching which rear shocks I should go with and I have identified several possibilities.
ICON makes a direct replacement for the 3rd Gen's.
Now, the really intriguing option I am looking at is using a rear shock that is for a lifted FJ Cruiser. Looking at dimensions and mounting options this might be an option to have a rear shock that will match the performance of the front c/o's.
Swayaway
FOX
Still not quite sure if this would work or not. The lengths of the shocks and the mounting seem to be within an acceptable level of tolerance for the rear of the 4RnR's. Especially when you consider the lifted applications.

 

[CYi5]

Nice, those Icon shocks are new for the 4runner, don't remember seeing them before. OME also has a new Nitrocharger Sport shock that you may want to look into. I wish they offered one with a reservoir, I liked the performance of my DR rear shocks on the taco with resi's.

 

[xcmountain80]

I welded in regular mounts to get away from the infinite Japanese stud style upper shock mount. http://www.yotatech.com/f2/oh-upper-rear-shock-mount-let-me-count-ways-i-hate-you-159970/

Love you

A

 

[shawkins]

The new OME Nitrocharger Sports are #60027. Most likely I'll end up with the Fox Shox for the rear of a FJ Cruiser, and make new bump stops.

980-99-417-A is the part number for the Fox rear FJ Cruiser shocks. ORW says the collapsed length is 14.85". OME 60027 are 338mm collapsed which is 13.3". So theoretically I need to space down my bump stops around 1.5" or build new ones. I think 1.75" or 2" would probably be smarter, to allow for some margin of error.

FJ Cruiser Fox Shox: www.offroadwarehouse.com/products/manufacturerID/2/sfID1/12/sfID2/730/sfID3/735
OME Catalog: www.4x4extreme.be/amortisseurs/ome-cat-24-export.pdf
60027 specs are on page #96
N86 specs are on page #98

Eventually I want to do something like this: www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88480

 

[mosupernak]

Nice build page man. Looks like a lot of hard work good luck!

 

[CYi5]

I believe the bumps I put together came out to 2" lower than stock. Definitely helped out soaking up the dips before the coils compressed too much.

 

[shawkins]

I believe the bumps I put together came out to 2" lower than stock. Definitely helped out soaking up the dips before the coils compressed too much.

At ride height, about how many inches of up travel do you have with those?

Thanks