Simple Dual Battery Set Up For Expeditionary Vehicle - Maxing Out

maxingout

Adventurer
Every time I prepare a Defender for expeditionary travel, I always have to decide how I am going to create my dual battery installation. I look at the expensive fancy systems designed for dual batteries, and I ask myself whether this time around I am going to go fancy or go basic.

I see the benefits and convenience of the fancy systems, and I am tempted to move into the twenty-first century and install the electronics associated with a modern dual charging system.

I have had six Defenders, and in each truck I opted for a basic system without any electronics. I keep my expeditionary vehicles as simple as possible, and I avoid electronics whenever I can get away with it.

My dual battery system is the essence of simplicty. I place a high amperage switch between the two positive poles of the batteries, and that switch regulates whether one or both batteries are charging or discharging. When the switch is in the on position, both batteries are charging or discharging. When the switch is in the off position, only the "house" battery is discharging, and the engine starting battery is isolated from the current draw associated with the accessories that I run on my truck.

Dual Battery.jpg

I run battery cables from the positive poles of each battery to a switch that can handle 500 amps of current. The switch has only two positions. It is either on or off, which means the batteries are either connected or disconnected through the switch.

The battery box in a Land Rover has enough room that the batteries can move around slightly even when clamped in position with the tie down clamp. To stop the batteries from small movements, I place 3/4 inch plywood inserts next to the battery so that the battery has no place to move when travelling on uneven terrain or with sudden stops. I mount the dual charging switch on the plywood so that the switch is securely fixed in place, and there is no chance of the switch shorting out against the metal of the battery box. I place a couple of globs of silicone under the plywood inserts so they are glued securely in place.

This system is not very convenient, but it is secure. It has never failed me in my six Defenders. When I want to change the position of the switch, I open the battery box and flip the switch. In practical terms that means I turn the switch on connecting both batteries in the morning, and before I go to sleep at night, I move the switch to the off position where the batteries are disconnected from each other. Although most people would not want to enter their battery box twice a day, when I am on an expedition, I don't mind the extra work. I want to look at the batteries twice a day to make sure everything is in order. I also want to discipline myself to be sure that I have disconnected the batteries from each other at night. That way I know I will have power to start the car in the morning.

When we did expeditionary travel in the Arabia Desert, we checked our batteries, our oil, our coolant and radiator cap as part of our routine daily vehicle checks before we headed off for another day of desert exploration. Those checks kept us honest and out of trouble. Flipping a battery switch twice a day was a routine part of our daily checks, and it did not seem onerous. It's simply what you should do if you are doing deep desert exploration.

If my Defender was only used for touring in the USA, I might consider the fancy electronic system, because if it breaks down, help usually is not too far away. But for deep desert trips in remote locations outside the USA, I don't want to have to deal with electronics that might fail at an inconvenient time, and I don't want to face any diagnostic dilemmas with the electronics of a dual charging system. I have only one switch to consider, and if it fails, then I will simply join the positive poles of the two batteries with a single cable.

None of this is rocket science. It is keeping things simple on an expeditionary vehicle. I know that when I am in Bongo Congo, I won't have to worry about my dual battery system.
 
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Treenail

Adventurer
I'm at the first step of building a dual battery system.

Your simple setup with wires and a switch with a fuse makes a lot of sense.

But then I read about smart chargers and meters and...and...and...that is soo confusing. Since there doesn't seem to be a consensus on this other path.

Since my main battery is a typical wet cell and my auxiliary battery is one of these: http://tinyurl.com/7gu8g3z I can't understand if I really do need a smart charger.

How do you monitor the state of charge for you auxiliary battery?

How do you keep from running it down so far that you damage the battery?

I'm stuck at the crossroads...???

Tom
 

maxingout

Adventurer
When I am touring, I have both batteries charging in the daytime, and at night, I have only one battery that I am using for running all of my accessories. It is all regulated through that single switch.

The house battery is the only one that ever gets run down because it is isolated at night from the starting battery.

In practice, the voltage on the house battery is not that big of an issue. My refrigeration is set to turn off automatically when the voltage drops to a preset value. The ARB refrigerator senses the voltage, and if the ARB shuts off, I know that I have reached the point that I don't want to discharge the battery any longer with heavy loads. The ARB refrigerator lets you select the voltage that you choose for refrigeration shut down.

I don't worry about the voltage on my house battery. I let the ARB refrigerator do all the monitoring and worrying for me.

I recharge my batteries every day when I am traveling, and by the end of the day, I have a full charge on both batteries when I am in expeditonary mode.

When I sailed around the world on my catamaran, I had four house batteries and two engine starting batteries. I hard wired a volt-ohm meter into my house batteries, and if I wanted to know the state of charge of the house batteries, I simply switched on the volt-ohm meter for a reading. If the voltage was low, I turned on an engine and topped up the batteries.

It was never rocket science. In the daytime, both batteries get charged, and at night, one battery gets discharged. If the voltage gets too low, the ARB fridge automatically shuts down so that battery isn't deeply discharged.

I did this on my catamaran all the way around the world. It is straight forward and uncomplicated.

I suspect there are technical reasons why what I am doing isn't the best way to do things, but so far it has worked for me. I am not an electrical engineer, but I know what works for me. The Die Hard Platinum batteries have a four year warranty, and if my house battery does not survive, I will make a trip to Sears for a new battery. Seems like a good deal to me.
 
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Treenail

Adventurer
Thanks for the insights...a simple meter is easy to wire in.

"It is straight forward and uncomplicated."

That may be true...if a person knows enough. I'm an arborist so what is simple and uncomplicated to me is way more than rocket science to others. Not that I can't learn about batteries and you can't learn about arborculture :) I appreciate the education!
 

maxingout

Adventurer
You could always use a panel mount switch, mounted to the front of the seat base, then you wouldn't need to get in to the battery box twice a day.

That is a good suggestion, and I had friends in Arabia who did that with their Defender. I considered that option, but I never have done it. I never liked drilling more holes in my battery box and then passing additional high amperage wires through those holes. I must admit that I have never had a rubber grommet fail with a wire shorting out.

My last Defender in Arabia had a fire in the dashboard area when there was a dead short. Very scary watching the smoke and small flames. Fortunately it did not incinerate the vehicle because there wasn't much in that location to burn. But it sure got my attention and instilled a permanent respect for the power of a dead short.

I know one other 110 that had a smoking wire in the dash during a desert expedition in Arabia.

Every time I run another wire, I install an inline fuse, and I hope the dudes that built my Defenders got the fuses and rubber grommets right.
 
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Antichrist

Expedition Leader
I never liked drilling more holes in my battery box and then passing additional high amperage wires through those holes. I must admit that I have never had a rubber grommet fail with a wire shorting out.
What I was thinking of doesn't require passing wires through the panel, only the stem of the switch. All the wiring would remain in your battery box.
Here's a post from another forum:
http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?986-Wiring-up-a-winch&p=9778&viewfull=1#post9778
 

maxingout

Adventurer
What I was thinking of doesn't require passing wires through the panel, only the stem of the switch. All the wiring would remain in your battery box.
Here's a post from another forum:
http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?986-Wiring-up-a-winch&p=9778&viewfull=1#post9778

I never thought of doing that. Sounds like a great idea. Thanks for the link. I am used to thinking about battery switches on sailboats, and I have never seen them done that way on boats. It's good to have a new way of thinking about such things. I can see how it would easily work on my set up. Thanks for pointing it out.
 

mowerman

Adventurer
your system with the isolator switch is simple and foolproof, all I do is replace the isolator switch with a relay (a big one), that is switched by alternator output, so if the engine is running the relay closes and allows charging of the auxilliary battery, and when the engine stops the batteries are disconnected from each other.
Again, a simple system that has worked very well, but I appreciate the simpicity of your system from an expedition/reliability point of view.
 

Treenail

Adventurer
Mowerman,

For us electrically challenged types would you be able to link the relay or give specs? A wiring schematic or description would help too.

The Oops Factor with electrical is huge so I want to do this right. Fires belong in the firepit, not the engine compartment!

Tom
 

maxingout

Adventurer
your system with the isolator switch is simple and foolproof, all I do is replace the isolator switch with a relay (a big one), that is switched by alternator output, so if the engine is running the relay closes and allows charging of the auxilliary battery, and when the engine stops the batteries are disconnected from each other.
Again, a simple system that has worked very well, but I appreciate the simpicity of your system from an expedition/reliability point of view.

It sounds like you have a straightforward and reliable system. I like things that I can understand, because I can fix things in expeditionary mode if I understand how everything works. I try not to intall any systems that I cannot fix or do without if the system doesn't work out as planned/hoped.
 

Snagger

Explorer
your system with the isolator switch is simple and foolproof, all I do is replace the isolator switch with a relay (a big one), that is switched by alternator output, so if the engine is running the relay closes and allows charging of the auxilliary battery, and when the engine stops the batteries are disconnected from each other.
Again, a simple system that has worked very well, but I appreciate the simpicity of your system from an expedition/reliability point of view.
Exactly what I have done with mine - two 82AH batteries connected in parallel via a relay controlled by the alternator (the wire that runs to the dash warning light) - with the alternator charging, both batteries are connected to the alternator and recharging; with the alternator not providing power (either with the engine off or if the alternator fails), the relay opens separating the secondary battery and all accessories and non-essential loads from the main battery, I might fit a battery isolator switch as a second bridge to allow me to use the secondary battery to start the engine should the main battery somehow become drained and to allow simultaneous charging of both batteries from a mains battery charger, but it's not essential - I can use the jump leads for the former scenario and the latter seems highly unlikely to occur.

A battery isolator switch would work equally well by itself. I'd use the type with the red plastic keys and have the neck stick through into the back of the left foot well. If you're worried about forgetting to isolate the batteries when stopped, you could always use on of those key rings with the telephone wire so you can't remove the ignition keys from the vehicle without removing the isolator key too.
 

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