java
Expedition Leader
Hmm, 1a is supposed to bond well, not familiar with 252. !a is a ***** to get off when its well bonded.
Point me in the direction of the spray you speak of?
Ski Bum Truck V2.0, F450 Rough Road RV
- Thread starter java
- Start date
Hmm, 1a is supposed to bond well, not familiar with 252. !a is a ***** to get off when its well bonded.
Point me in the direction of the spray you speak of?
The Artisan
Adventurer
Great time at the NWOR, we were comfortable, but had one of the most "not off road" trucks there. Either way it was nice. Hung out with lots of friends, enjoyed watching the obstacle course, and did lots of walking around looking at rigs I recognized!
Now I thought I had a leaking window..... Well its not the window...... Looks like our time on rough roads has taken its toll on the roof seams. They are splitting all the way around. Tri Van used an elastomeric of some sort to seal the overlap between the roof sheet metal and the corner extrusions. Its brushed on. Where is passes over the lip of the sheet metal it looks like it was the thinnest point and its just splitting there. Ugh!
This is the worst of split, but actually not leaking as the butyl that is between the pieces is good and thick here.
SOOOOO I get to re seal it all the way around, fun.... I hit the spots that were leaking (place you can see form the interior anyway...) with a bit of sikaflex since it was supposed to rain again. I wiped it with MEK and a wire brush, seemed to stick well.
But I need some input. Is a sealant with a layer of paint on it. Its loose at the edge in places (i will peel those) but is there any goos reason not to just spread a new layer over the top, going over both edges of the old stuff, after a wipe down with acetone/mek to clean it up?
Also, I have a can of brush able Geocel Pro Flex, coming, and have a case of Skiaflex 1a, thoughts as to product to use?? Sika will be a ***** to trowel out, and may not stick to bare alum as well as the geocel, but its grey. The Geocell may go on thinner (a good thing to keep water from pooling on the roof, but also need enough to get a good build up) This stuff supposedly stick to bare alum, and will stick in the wet (hotter chemical?) so maybe it will bond better to the original elastomer and paint?
Option 3 I am trying to avoid is going around the entire thing with a cup grinder and taking the old crap off..... That would take days.....
I tried to use some Sika 252 to fill in gaps where my steel was. It just pealed right off after it dried. When used with metal to metal contact it did well.
You can do what I am doing and coating my pod in spray polyurea to make it completely waterproof. If not maybe just use a poly spray along the seams only?
Kevin
The Artisan
Adventurer
Java yes on both accts. If it were me, I would clean every bit of it and spray a coating such as Raptor. Its not expensive and would do a good job sealing, IMO
Kevin
Kevin
java
Expedition Leader
Yes, the 1A, is a sealant and adhesive, It does want a primer on mill finish aluminum. 1A product sheet. http://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument...9-8416-deecbdda0df1/pds-cpd-Sikaflex1a-us.pdf Seems like it would be good here, would only be ~1/16-1/8" thick though.
Clean (wipe down with acetone/mek) or grind all extg stuff off? I have sprayed bedliner before, not hard at all, just MESSY!
The Artisan
Adventurer
Java,
That's why I suggested the raptor. Its not as good as an AB mix but it is a pour and shoot application, looks to be very simple. Another option is a good brush on, but not sure who makes a good one.
Kevin
That's why I suggested the raptor. Its not as good as an AB mix but it is a pour and shoot application, looks to be very simple. Another option is a good brush on, but not sure who makes a good one.
Kevin
java
Expedition Leader
Yeah UPOL has never let me down with their stuff. I have not used a brush on either.
Im worried that the Raptor wont like going over the existing stuff that is there though.
Monsta Liner makes a good DIY product and I believe they have roll-on or brush on products available if you don't want to spray.
I wonder if there is an advantage to spraying, i.e. "force into nooks and crannies", quicker drying, etc.? I can see where the manual application would be much cleaner, however.
Good luck.
I wonder if there is an advantage to spraying, i.e. "force into nooks and crannies", quicker drying, etc.? I can see where the manual application would be much cleaner, however.
Good luck.
java
Expedition Leader
Yeah brush/roll would be much better in this case, I only need a 6" wide strip.... May be harder to get the thickness to build brushing though.
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
Ive been shopping DC ammeters
If you're going to buy one anyway, get one that can do a "sample and hold" of what is called "inrush current". Very handy for reading the momentary spikes when loads start up, and since they happen so fast, you need a meter that can not only read it, but can remember it.
Huh. That's whack. Does it heat the water? Maybe the heating element wasn't going?.
Truth is, there's no such thing as modified sine wave, that's just marketing BS. There is sine wave, square wave and modified square wave (steps added to the square wave to more closely resemble a sine wave). If it was a sine wave to begin with, they wouldn't have to modify it. Resistive heating elements are immune, they don't care either way, but I have no idea what other electrogadgetry is inside that 'spresso machine. 99% of electrostuff works just fine on MSW (including so-called "sensitive" electronics, which usually have their own power supplies (bricks) and the power supplies don't care). The problem is, there's no hard and fast rule about what will work, so you have to try every particular device to see if it will work, And if it doesn't, it's usually fried immediately. Most common fails I think are battery chargers for power tools, camera batteries and suchlike.
Before I'd suspect the wave form, I'd really want to make sure the voltage and frequency were within spec - and stays within spec when servicing a load.
java
Expedition Leader
A little research into the raptor, cannot be applied over bare metal. Can be brushed/rolled.
the big one is DO NOT apply over seam sealer, that makes me think it will be unhappy going over whatever they used to seal the seam.....
It does heat the water, but the heat cycle was done, and the big spike is when it runs the high pressure pump.
Voltage dropped to 110-108 freq stayed steady at 60 hertz.
And yes I know about the inverter sine wave stuff. This one is square wave.
I really need to run another test to see what it does.
the big one is DO NOT apply over seam sealer, that makes me think it will be unhappy going over whatever they used to seal the seam.....
It does heat the water, but the heat cycle was done, and the big spike is when it runs the high pressure pump.
Voltage dropped to 110-108 freq stayed steady at 60 hertz.
And yes I know about the inverter sine wave stuff. This one is square wave.
I really need to run another test to see what it does.
The Artisan
Adventurer
Java,
That's why I mentioned clean all of it out and start fresh with the raptor. Always good to have a clean surface. My buddy sprayed a set of Jeep rims with the raptor and they turned out great. He worked at a high end 4x4 shop at the time.
Kevin
That's why I mentioned clean all of it out and start fresh with the raptor. Always good to have a clean surface. My buddy sprayed a set of Jeep rims with the raptor and they turned out great. He worked at a high end 4x4 shop at the time.
Kevin