Bubblegoose1
@PNWINFERNOPRO
Bummer
Nice work!! Table looks awesome.
Nice work!! Table looks awesome.
Ski Bum Truck V2.0, F450 Rough Road RV
- Thread starter java
- Start date
java
Expedition Leader
Thanks! Yeah I am a little bummed because it should have just run it, its like 10W more than the inverter spec (which I think they may be optimistic about..... ) and its supposed to support surges to 200%. I only saw it drawing right about 40amps, should have been more like 90. 1250W at 13V= 96amps, which to me says it was only making roughly half its rated 1250W. Not quite sure whats going on there.
java
Expedition Leader
OK I dug into the inverter specs..... It should run it. The coffee machine takes 1260W, thats only 10W over the continuous rating, and its claimed to be able to do 150% for up to 60mins.
Snips from the inverter specs:
So I did run 1/0 cables (manual says 4ga, eek), so I should not be getting voltage drop to the inverter. I am wondering if this is just a bad unit? I did get it used..... Whats the easiest way to test inverter output? Thoughts?
Snips from the inverter specs:
So I did run 1/0 cables (manual says 4ga, eek), so I should not be getting voltage drop to the inverter. I am wondering if this is just a bad unit? I did get it used..... Whats the easiest way to test inverter output? Thoughts?
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
Shows tons of data.
"Also display Volts, Amps, Watts, Hz, VA"
http://www.p3international.com/products/P4400.html
"Also display Volts, Amps, Watts, Hz, VA"
http://www.p3international.com/products/P4400.html
java
Expedition Leader
Saw yours too! Swing by any time. I'll wander over and take a peek at yours too!
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java
Expedition Leader
java
Expedition Leader
Great time at the NWOR, we were comfortable, but had one of the most "not off road" trucks there. Either way it was nice. Hung out with lots of friends, enjoyed watching the obstacle course, and did lots of walking around looking at rigs I recognized!
Now I thought I had a leaking window..... Well its not the window...... Looks like our time on rough roads has taken its toll on the roof seams. They are splitting all the way around. Tri Van used an elastomeric of some sort to seal the overlap between the roof sheet metal and the corner extrusions. Its brushed on. Where is passes over the lip of the sheet metal it looks like it was the thinnest point and its just splitting there. Ugh!
This is the worst of split, but actually not leaking as the butyl that is between the pieces is good and thick here.
SOOOOO I get to re seal it all the way around, fun.... I hit the spots that were leaking (place you can see form the interior anyway...) with a bit of sikaflex since it was supposed to rain again. I wiped it with MEK and a wire brush, seemed to stick well.
But I need some input. Is a sealant with a layer of paint on it. Its loose at the edge in places (i will peel those) but is there any goos reason not to just spread a new layer over the top, going over both edges of the old stuff, after a wipe down with acetone/mek to clean it up?
Also, I have a can of brush able Geocel Pro Flex, coming, and have a case of Skiaflex 1a, thoughts as to product to use?? Sika will be a ***** to trowel out, and may not stick to bare alum as well as the geocel, but its grey. The Geocell may go on thinner (a good thing to keep water from pooling on the roof, but also need enough to get a good build up) This stuff supposedly stick to bare alum, and will stick in the wet (hotter chemical?) so maybe it will bond better to the original elastomer and paint?
Option 3 I am trying to avoid is going around the entire thing with a cup grinder and taking the old crap off..... That would take days.....
Now I thought I had a leaking window..... Well its not the window...... Looks like our time on rough roads has taken its toll on the roof seams. They are splitting all the way around. Tri Van used an elastomeric of some sort to seal the overlap between the roof sheet metal and the corner extrusions. Its brushed on. Where is passes over the lip of the sheet metal it looks like it was the thinnest point and its just splitting there. Ugh!
This is the worst of split, but actually not leaking as the butyl that is between the pieces is good and thick here.
SOOOOO I get to re seal it all the way around, fun.... I hit the spots that were leaking (place you can see form the interior anyway...) with a bit of sikaflex since it was supposed to rain again. I wiped it with MEK and a wire brush, seemed to stick well.
But I need some input. Is a sealant with a layer of paint on it. Its loose at the edge in places (i will peel those) but is there any goos reason not to just spread a new layer over the top, going over both edges of the old stuff, after a wipe down with acetone/mek to clean it up?
Also, I have a can of brush able Geocel Pro Flex, coming, and have a case of Skiaflex 1a, thoughts as to product to use?? Sika will be a ***** to trowel out, and may not stick to bare alum as well as the geocel, but its grey. The Geocell may go on thinner (a good thing to keep water from pooling on the roof, but also need enough to get a good build up) This stuff supposedly stick to bare alum, and will stick in the wet (hotter chemical?) so maybe it will bond better to the original elastomer and paint?
Option 3 I am trying to avoid is going around the entire thing with a cup grinder and taking the old crap off..... That would take days.....
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
Nothing can tell you the available watts until you plug in a load and find out at what point the supply cuts out.
So you put the killawatt between the supply and the load so you can get a measurement of where the supply maxxed out.
Then you know the available watts.
java
Expedition Leader
Ive been shopping DC ammeters
After NWOR I treid the coffee maker again, 1256watts max draw in the house. Reset the Kill a Watt, and ran it in the truck, 576W draw max.... weird. Pulled two shots, didn't overload the inverter, but it was making nasty noises, and I dont think the coffee maker like modified sign wave either.... But it worked. Weird. Shunt showed ~50 amps. This was after driving home, batteries ~90% SOC
proof....
Haven't had time to try again.