Slave cylinder retrofit. Series and pre-puma defender.

blue bomber

Adventurer
After rebuilding a standard Lucas girling clutch master cylinder I wanted to find a more permanent solution. The aluminum housing was worn and it would only be a matter of time before I would have to replace it with a new unit. My series has a Chevy v8 and granny four speed trans adapted to the series t/ case. I was not fully impressed with my clutch disengagement. After some calculation I decided to bump the clutch master cylinder bore to 13/16". ( This master cylinder is available in the stock 3/4" bore) I found a cast iron jeep clutch master available from Dorman. With a few mods it worked out great.


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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356927367.254888.jpg
Stock vs replacement
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The push rods need to exchanged
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The jeep push rod needs to be cut to harvest the larger diameter washer.
anujuvej.jpg

Bolts up just like the stock one. Adjust the free play just like standard.
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The thread is a 7/16" 24 inverted flare. I have to use a braided line for my TLC slave cylinder. Adapting to stock LR lines is very simple.
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The cylinder is a little longer and taller.minor persuasion required. Hammer tap. The reservoir is a bit more involved.
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Too tall
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The plastic reservoir is held on with a clamp. Simply undo and slip off the reservoir body.
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Cut the bottom half inch off and slip back on. Tighten up band clamp.
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Fits under the stock fender bracket.
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Nice and tidy result!!
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Test drive was a success. This was one of my repairs I wanted to do while repairing my flop damage. I hope this is helpful.


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Last edited:
The 3/4" bore application is an early Cherokee and the 13/16" bore is a cj 5,7 and 8 from 1980 to 1986.
I must emphasize use DORMAN only. All others are aluminum.


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While it likely wouldn't help your clutch disengagement issue, there are companies that specialize in installing SS sleeves in Aluminum MC, SC's and wheel cylinders to prevent the wear issues.
Good info though. I'm sure the Dorman clutch MC is cheaper than a Girling.
 
Great Advice!

Hey Matthew

Your 88 is really cool.

I'm sure i may have asked before, but do you have a build thread for it anywhere?
Would be nice to read all your mods and have pictures to go along with it.
What size tyres are on there?

It seems most owners keep their series rovers in a semi original condition.
Then you get some that change a few things.

Yours is the 1st i've seen that's not a museum piece and also not this insanely modified rock crawler.

An inspiration for my 88"

IMG-20121218-01234.jpg

cheers
Julien
 
Last edited:
While it likely wouldn't help your clutch disengagement issue, there are companies that specialize in installing SS sleeves in Aluminum MC, SC's and wheel cylinders to prevent the wear issues.
Good info though. I'm sure the Dorman clutch MC is cheaper than a Girling.

Tom, these are quite a bit cheaper than original girling about the same as the knock stuff. But, without the need for specialized fluid.
 
Hey Matthew

Your 88 is really cool.

I'm sure i may have asked before, but do you have a build thread for it anywhere?
Would be nice to read all your mods and have pictures to go along with it.
What size tyres are on there?

It seems most owners keep their series rovers in a semi original condition.
Then you get some that change a few things.

Yours is the 1st i've seen that's not a museum piece and also not this insanely modified rock crawler.

An inspiration for my 88"

View attachment 138136

cheers
Julien

Thanks, Julian. My Land Rover is an exercise is feasibility.Trust me, my land rover is not the only one that modified in such a way! I have no build thread.I have had the car for almost 20 years. I'm thinking of composing a how to type of book???
 
A how to book would be nice.

How about a brief rundown of specs?
Also what is your fuel economy?

Humour me with a basic build thread.
please!!

:-)
 
Tom, these are quite a bit cheaper than original girling about the same as the knock stuff. But, without the need for specialized fluid.
I don't think there's really a need anymore, though I still use Girling more out of habit. It's been synthetic for quite some time I discovered last year when I called them. They just didn't change the label until they'd used up the old stock of containers. So even if you happen to find some NOS seals you should be ok with any synthetic.
 
Specs:
1960 88
1997 vortec 350, Holley truck avenger 670 CFM carb,HEI with "melonized" drive gear
NP 435 with 50-3801 AA adapter
1970 series IIa transfer case with "B" suffix gears, 2.88 low range ratio. AA adapter 50-9000
Stock axle housings with 3/8" thick pipe caps weld on in place of the stock sheet metal. 3.54 rover type , ARB rd56, Maxi-drive 300m rear shafts. Great Basin Rover HD cvs. Roam Offroad disc brake kit ( proto type kit from BCB)
Scout II power steering
Painless wiring harness
Allied wheels


Nice.

Ok I see that it is more modified than I thought.

Different gearbox
Modded transfer box
Higher ratio diffs
Disc brakes

I didn't see what size rims and tyres you have?

I'm amazed you get such good fuel consumption.
In liters per 100 km it's roughly 13 l/100km, which puts it ********** bang into 2.5 turbo diesel motor consumption territory.

I can't help thinking that it would be better to start off with a defender and then swap a v8 into it.
My reasoning is that you start off with disc brakes and coil springs and stronger axles etc.

The series has the cool, vintage look though.
 

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