Slight issue after lift...

[alosix]

http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np231j_short_sye.php

Scroll to the bottom to see the diff between a super short kit and a normal SYE.

a super short kit is overkill on any XJ.

I really don't think you need an sye and a shaft though. it sounds like your drive line is still smooth at the current height, you just have a little binding that you need to take care of.

Jason

 

[Ford Prefect]

I am really trying to understand the SYE concern you have.

You have said several times that you did not want to do an SYE when you are going to swap the axle in the rear.

WHY would swapping the axle in the rear eliminate your need for the SYE? I mean, if you need it you need it, no matter what axle you have in the rear unless the new axle has the shaft going into the pumpkin two plus inches higher than the current one.

The SYE is the way for you to go here, honestly.

By the way, your XJ is an old one, you have to remember that people did not start lifting XJ's with any consistancy until the mid to late 90's and the ZJ's did not come around lifted until the early 2000's. My point being that Chrystler never thought to engineer the XJ with the possibility of people lifting it until much latter than your jeep was made. My WJ has the same problem, the manual actually says that if you lift it more than one inch you will have a problem with the shafts. Ergo both of my shafts had to be replaced when I put on my 2" BB

I agree with above comment, pay now so as to not pay more later.


Good luck to you.

 

[BIGdaddy]

I am really trying to understand the SYE concern you have.

You have said several times that you did not want to do an SYE when you are going to swap the axle in the rear.

WHY would swapping the axle in the rear eliminate your need for the SYE? I mean, if you need it you need it, no matter what axle you have in the rear unless the new axle has the shaft going into the pumpkin two plus inches higher than the current one.

The SYE is the way for you to go here, honestly.

By the way, your XJ is an old one, you have to remember that people did not start lifting XJ's with any consistancy until the mid to late 90's and the ZJ's did not come around lifted until the early 2000's. My point being that Chrystler never thought to engineer the XJ with the possibility of people lifting it until much latter than your jeep was made. My WJ has the same problem, the manual actually says that if you lift it more than one inch you will have a problem with the shafts. Ergo both of my shafts had to be replaced when I put on my 2" BB

I agree with above comment, pay now so as to not pay more later.


Good luck to you.

the sye is not the issue, its the same no matter the axle. its the associated driveshaft that is the issue. the chryler 8.25 axle and the d35 thats in there now have different pinion lengths, necessitating different length shafts. I will soon have everything in my possession to swap out the turdy-5 to the chryco axle, including a stock shaft.

I am trying to avoid spending money on parts that will not be in the car in a few months.

my model jeep has been lifted by thousands of owners and its clearly known that a sye isn't needed until more than 3" of lift. I don't have any vibration at speed(well, I do, but it was there before...likely a tire balance issue as it goes away around sweeping freeway turns). I'm getting a thunk going like 5mph, when the angle of my dangle changes either from braking or from suspension compression.

This is a very, very, very slight noise that is almost imperceptable. I simply don't want it to develop into a larger issue, hence my "slow to act" approach to changing anything.

 

[BIGdaddy]

I am really trying to understand the SYE concern you have.

You have said several times that you did not want to do an SYE when you are going to swap the axle in the rear.

WHY would swapping the axle in the rear eliminate your need for the SYE? I mean, if you need it you need it, no matter what axle you have in the rear unless the new axle has the shaft going into the pumpkin two plus inches higher than the current one.

The SYE is the way for you to go here, honestly.

By the way, your XJ is an old one, you have to remember that people did not start lifting XJ's with any consistancy until the mid to late 90's and the ZJ's did not come around lifted until the early 2000's. My point being that Chrystler never thought to engineer the XJ with the possibility of people lifting it until much latter than your jeep was made. My WJ has the same problem, the manual actually says that if you lift it more than one inch you will have a problem with the shafts. Ergo both of my shafts had to be replaced when I put on my 2" BB

I agree with above comment, pay now so as to not pay more later.


Good luck to you.

BTW, xjmike has a 97 and up jeep with a different np231 tailshaft. He would have needed an sye at .25"...

haha!

He does have airbags and more cupholders than I do, though. :coffeedrink:

 

[Root Moose]

Brian: get that free transfer case drop kit and see if it isolates the issue.

Budget for an SYE in the future regardless.

I'm not a fan of TC drop kits - hate them n fact (see Mike's post above; abhor "non-elegance") - but given budget restrictions it sounds like a good temporary test/solution to isolate the problem.

 

[ExpoMike]

I think the rear shaft issue you are thinking you are going to have is really no an issue.

My buddy (who got me into XJ's) ran an SYE with a front drive shaft for the rear, with his D35 for 10 years. Last year he swapped in a 8.25 as the case had finally spread open enough to start causing bearing/gear issues. He used the same front drive shaft.

I'm running a front shaft too. PORC SYE was used as well.

 

[Stumpalump]

my model jeep has been lifted by thousands of owners and its clearly known that a sye isn't needed until more than 3" of lift.

And there is the biggest problem with an XJ. Any high schooler can buy a 600-1100 XJ then do a few donuts off road and tell you how to compete in the King of Hammers rock buggy event. The advise you get from the majority of these XJ hacks is garbage unless you just want a jacked up jeep with big tires on the cheap.
A SYE will allow you to run a CV joint on the front and a longer shaft. Problem is fixed. It's also a leaf sprung rear configured in a way thats hard to install an antiwrap bar. Having that loose goose rear end thats jacked up wreaks havok on a drive shaft. An SYE will beef it up, give you a longer shaft with a better angle and not break the first time it hops on a hill climb. This hop and driveshaft breakage will have you jetting backwards down a hill and that my freind is the fastest and easiest way to roll a rig. Got a roll cage yet or you going to do what thousands who jack up an XJ do and rely on a stought red neck to hold up the roof when your drive shaft breaks?
Next you will tell me your roof rack adds protection but in fact it adds leverage on the pillars so it folds the roof sideways even faster. Sorry so blunt but it sounds like Naxtard low buck garbage is compromising a proper build.