Midnightsun
Adventurer
One other mod I did to jeep was put in a hotter coil and bigger plug wires and hotter plugs. Did make a difference jeep pulls really well with good pep already had k&n filter so the combination works well
Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews?
- Thread starter Tkhawk
- Start date
Plannerman
Wandering Explorer
Thanks. Looks like it might be the best way to go.
Midnightsun
Adventurer
I also purchased my trailer from northridge 4x4 and SHARKTANK was my promo code for 15% off. I still owe Tkhawk steak dinner and cold beer for that heads up
Thanks all for your postings. I read through them all and ordered the trailer last weekend from Northridge. Used Sharktank code for 10% off. Expected 4-6 weeks for delivery. Imagine my surprise when I got a call from the shipper mid-week asking what time I would like my delivery. Asked them if they had a liftgate for delivery - they said no problem, delivered right to my front door. Ordered it without wheels so I can match my tow vehicle - now just need to find wheels and tires.... Spent much of the weekend putting her together, and will be incorporating many of your ideas.
Midnightsun
Adventurer
Congrats jmlarson. There is some great off roading in your area. I'll be out there this summer!! And this has been a really cool thread for the Smittybilt trailer
YYCRod
Member
One area that I have not touched on is the alignment. We scheduled ours in, but the place charged $150 pr axle, which I thought was a bit steep, so I thought I'd give it a go myself.
It is a bit intimidation, but yet again simple math. The following is my own simplified explanation. You have two ways to adjust it. Toe, and Camber. Toe being the wheel pointing inwards or outwards, and camber being a squatting tire.
The adjustments, for both on each "axle" is both on the torque link as it bolts on the frame. You adjust it by loosening the nut and rotating the bolt head, which has a rotating disc welded on it. Simple but yet functional.
I used a laser level and mounted it on the frame. It pointed the laser dot forward 20 feet and backwards 20 feet.
Here it is pictured on a different location.
View attachment 425727
I then taped a 1 inch square pipe in place on the wheels so I could clip the level on the wheel, and shine the laser both forward and backwards.
The frame dots were references, and then it is simply a matter of math. The difference between the frame and wheel dots should be the same front and rear. Mine was about 6 cm out of toe, even though it tracked fine, but that would have worn the tires relatively fast.
For camber I then just rotated the level vertical and used the bubble. I was not able to get the camber to zero, but very close. There were simply not enough adjustment available. The best way I can explain this is that I was off 3mm on the top on the right wheel, and could get the left to zero, but elected to keep both @ 3mm offset on top ( negative camber) for symmetrical reasons.
I double and triple checked, and tightened the adjustments, and it seems to still tow straight. It is important to have this done, as per the manual. You can scrub the tires very fast, so I would recommend that you have this checked..... or DIY...
Cheers
Thanks for the explanation Ebrabaek. A question... I see the cam bolts on each of the trailing arm pivots, which cam bolts adjust camber and which adjust toe? Thanks.
Midnightsun
Adventurer
Wanted to give quick heads up competitive cycle has the 270 degree foxwing awning for 469$ out the door no tax and 2 day free ship.
teotwaki
Excelsior!
Sharing a link would be good.
All I found was this one for $519.20 https://www.competitivecyclist.com/rhino-rack-foxwing-awning
Midnightsun
Adventurer
Sorry bout link but that's it. Then on check out they give another 50$ off
ebrabaek
Adventurer
Absolutely.
The two outside adjustment on each torque arm are the camber adjustment. If you have a look at them, you can see that it will move the arm up and down due to stops welded on the top and bottom of the off camber disc. That adjustment will pivot the outside of the arm ( axle) up and down, which essentially controls the squat ( camber) of the axle.
The two inside adjustments does the same, but as the stops are welded front and rear will now pivot the arm ( or axle) front or rear, which then controls the toe ( pointing inward or outwards)
As you adjust them, they do affect each other a tiny bit, due to bushing wobble and such, so just check each other prior to tightening and after tightening of the nuts.
YYCRod
Member
Thanks a million. I'll try the home method. One other question, what torque are the axle nuts/cam bolts? I seem to remember 165 ft/lbs.
Last edited:
Silverback07
Adventurer
I strapped a 4' level across my tire using a ratchet strap, the top of the level was through the centerline of the hub. Then I measured on either side of the level to the frame to get my caster aligned. For camber I placed the level up and down and used the bubble for alignment. Once you get it level use a paint pen and mark it, I had mine back off on me on bumpy roads. Really need to give it a tack weld to prevent this.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
Plannerman
Wandering Explorer
I just made a purchase through Northridge. We have a set of Jeep wheels sitting in the garage, so I opted for the kit sans wheels and tires. They honored the coupon and we're out the door for $4499. Hell of a deal!
Thanks again to everyone for sharing and advising!
Thanks again to everyone for sharing and advising!