snorkel position

[freeze]

haha.. no worries Kurt!

This is what influences my thinking... after my 9,000 mile trip I took the snorkel off because the water vents were clogged with insect debris and noted dried dirt caked on the inside of the snorkel piece and then cleaned out the air box that was filled with dust and a vast selection of insect carcasses reminiscent of the battlefield-scene from 'Starship Troopers.'

Wonder what the TopSpin would cost? Anyone have an idea?

Haha... wait till fall when there's huge grass hoppers! That was gross last year.

I paid $110 shipped through Amsoil.

You misunderstand Corey... freeze doesn't park under trees - he goes through trees. On the trip we emptied his air-box just to harvest dried kindling for starting camp fires. Some say his legs are hydraulic and that he roams the Canadian woods for poutine... all I know is they call him 'the freeze.' :coffeedrink:

Ruh Roh!

You're at 457 cfm at best at the top of your HP curve. You're more likely to hit the top of your torque curve off road. 200-450 should be just fine. Search SOAZ build (summer 2010). He used a 200-450 cfm top spin if I recollect.

If you're pinned to win... perhaps. But it's rare that you'll be full throttle reaching peak torque and making full use of the CFM's. More throttle means more air. If you're driving with good technique and picking proper lines, it's rare to open it right up needing that much air. Now if you're pinned drifting backroads, then yes you'd be using needing as much air as possible.

I might check into a top spin but Im not sure I like the idea of wearable ball bearings. How long is one of these units estimated to last? Since it eats dirt for a living, does it need lubrication?

These are sealed bearings. The Top Spin can be disassembled and bearings replaces if needed. If I don't switch to the Toyota 70 series pre-filter cone, this Top Spin will be used in the worst conditions over this winter which will put the bearings to the test.

I know Donaldson provides pre-cleaners on a variety of materiel handling and construction equipment that see extremely rugged conditions. [/url]

Haha.. yeah... not mean't for trucks really... more farm equipment/heavy duty~

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Called donaldson to get some info and pressed the key to get to a rep for specific detailed application and technical questions. I asked if there was another model comparable to the H002426 with the different size opening so I'll know which one to order after measuring the dia of the snorkel. She said I'll have to provide her the dimensions, so it's likeley they have alot of diff dia openings, which is promising...

Did you look at the document I posted earlier? It has their entire application chart with all the pertinent dimensions including the output diameter
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/66501-snorkel-position?p=951119#post951119

I didn't just pull those part numbers out of my head

 

[rmirandayopo]

one of the beast articles that I found about it (Is in Spanish, but pictures are in English LOL!!! )

http://tucanviajero.blogspot.com/2011/01/snorkel-orientacion-de-la-toma-de-aire.html

 

[rmirandayopo]

going over the article again, they have it in Spanish and English, so no Español skills are required...

 

[TangoBlue]

Nathan did mention in his reply that his TopSpin unit has sealed bearings.

I have never experienced the sealed bearings in my cyclocross or mountain bike to fail, in fact I went to great pains to change everything that required loose bearings to sealed bearings for the sake of durability and decreased maintenance.

Now bikes aren't the same as a pre-cleaner but sealed bearings are bloody well care-free. This isn't a terribly complicated piece of equipment; I'd call it elegantly simple. I'm going to pick one up.

 

[RMP&O]

You guys do realize these cyclone pre-filters come in just about every piece of equiptment right?

Go to your Cat, Kubota, Case, John Deer, New Holland, whatever dealer and you will find many to choose from.

 

[corax]

As far as sealed bearings in a harsh environment go, look at idler pulleys on your serpentine belt, or alternator, or water pump. These all experience much more side load than you'd see in an unloaded pre-filter and still last well over 100k. Bearings are generally considered to be one of the most highly toleranced pieces in most modern machinery. Granted, the pre-filter bearings won't be as big as some of these components, but then again, you can usually get just about any size bearing from your local NAPA for less than $10. As an ex-automotive engineer, I wouldn't be overly worried about it - worst case scenario is that the bearing seizes and you're back to using the air filter as the primary filtering medium

 

[cruiseroutfit]

So what is the new product? Any clue? I mean the Top Spin is pretty new, our local rep has no clue of anything new coming out... thinks the Top Spin is the cat's meow.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Never pressed for more info, was satisfied that donaldson thinks its a better design than their current products. Though the donaldson rep I spoke with also said they didn't have a clue about a new product. My guess would be a design that ejects dust etc witthout the need for moveable / wearable parts but it's just a guess. The source is a known reliable one, frequents expo, to say the least. I'd say the name but I'm not sure on the politics on that so would rather be cautiously respectful....

Interesting. The local Donaldson rep said to check back in a few weeks, he was going to check with the factory and see if they had any updates on new products... He said he knew about the Top-Spin 6-9 months before they hit the market so assuming new is in fact in the works he guesstimated it would be that long before its in anyone's hands. My curiousity is piqued.

The topspin looks like the best candidate on the market but should be nicknamed the tophat. 10 inches is tall, just want to make sure I can keep it low profile. Don't want a tall tree limb hangup.

As for the height, we've cut down some snorkels for clearance issues. The snorkel on my personal FJ40 was trimmed a bit so that the snorkel head was no taller than the overall height of the rig... I could have cut it down a bit more with a taller top. Not workable on every application but an easy fix from some.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The adapters don't bring up the height, they simply fill the gap between your snorkels OD and the head units ID. Worst case you could always fab up you own adapter, easy hurdle if you feel you need the Top Spin.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

If I put anything like a ring of some sort of pipe to fill the gap ill have to attach or glue it somehow. Doesnt sound all that easy unless I could find the perfect dia rubber cuff to get a super tight fit.

Your right, maybe you should take it to a shop, its obvious our definitions of 'easy' are different... mine is can be done in less than 20 minutes and no special tools or skills... yours is using glue . I'm not telling you I think it would be easy... I'm telling you we've done it plenty of times and it is easy. Find a piece of ABS with the near appropriate diameter and wall thickness. Cut a full slot in it from top to bottom, that way when you tighten the snorkel head, your also tightening the sleeve. Even if you did want to glue it, that is as easy as getting some ABS glue at any and every hardware store. Again, to me its easy.

 

[TangoBlue]

If I put anything like a ring of some sort of pipe to fill the gap ill have to attach or glue it somehow. Doesnt sound all that easy unless I could find the perfect dia rubber cuff to get a super tight fit. I've done some searching and have only seen reducers used which do extend the length.

I definately need a prefilter solution and the topsin seems to be the only one that provides enough cfm and added bonus you don't have to dump it. Not really into permanently modifying the snorkel more than removing some of the top portion to lower the head height so still kinda stuck. Any product solutions or mod threads you could point to?

Does post #20 of this thread offer any guidance? This doesn't seem too difficult... am I missing something?

Why would glue even be necessary? Wouldn't the worm-drive tube clamp offer enough torque to clamp down the pre-filter and sleeve? Maybe a bolt-drive tube clamp for even more force when approaching mach-speed...

 

[TangoBlue]

Guidance... no, though post 20 does mention the words silicone sleeve. That's why I was interested in product soutions or mod threads. I'm not saying it's the forums responsibility to provide me a solution. But if it's not so difficult please share your expertise. That's why I'm here asking about the how.

So this silicone sleeve, is this a material your purchased somewhere and cut to fit, or a ready made solution? The only reason I mentioned the possible need for an adhesive is the tube clamp would only clamp to the adapter collar, and if this was made from solid material the clamp would do nothing to clamp this peice to the snorkel itself. Was just sort of thinking out loud.

I appreciate any info you can provide about the silicone sleeve, and how to reach mach speed...

Thanks!

For the sleeve I'd check a plumbing supply store or the big box HW stores, split it, install the pre-cleaner, and secure the tube clamp. That seems to me to be the most secure way of mounting it. Unfortunately I don't have a specific PN for the sleeve; that will take some reconnaissance on your part.

At least those are my thoughts... if you read Kurt's post again he gives some good rudder based on practical experience with the modification. And, I don't think it's so much "snippy-tude" or flaming as much as it is frustration... I had to dial back the sarcasm on my first few attempts at replying. Point is PH, just do it...

As far as mach speed... you don't have a throttle body spacer yet? Worked wonders with my 2.7. NASA is overstocked on heat tiles since the shuttle has retired - you may need those to dissipate the heat from friction on the hood.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Now that wasn't so hard was it? There's really no need to get all snippy, if every mod question was answered 'it's easy go figure it out or if you're too dumb, take it to a shop' there would be no need for this forum..

First, please don't put words in my mount, I never called you dumb and if you felt that way I do apologize. I wasn't intending to be 'flaming' or 'snippy', the fact I put a big smiley face on the end was hopefully indicative of my joking demeanor. I am however serious in that my 'easy' and your 'easy' could be on opposite ends of the spectrum, that is absolutely no slight to you or any other forum member, I was merely making a point that if your not comfortable with a project like this... take it do someone that is. My computer guy thinks its 'easy' to swap hard-drives in my computer, I think its a nightmare that would result in me pulling my hair out and losing years worth of documents... its all relative. I've happily shared tech for years on this and many other forums and don't feel this was any exception but again... if your not comfortable working on your rig, don't be proud to hand off the job to someone that is.

Furthermore, I think the ABS sleeve is the legit answer, we've used it for other snorkel applications we've had to neck down, zero issues. The 'silicon sleeve' mentioned earlier in the thread is likely either a chunk of silicone material wrapped around the snorkel mast until the thickness is gained... or a piece of appropriate sized silicon hose (rubber hose would also work just fine). Cut a piece ~3" long, slip it over your snorkel mast and then tighten down the Top Spin over the top, shouldn't budge.

 

[freeze]

I think the ABS sleeve is the legit answer, we've used it for other snorkel applications we've had to neck down, zero issues. The 'silicon sleeve' mentioned earlier in the thread is likely either a chunk of silicone material wrapped around the snorkel mast until the thickness is gained... or a piece of appropriate sized silicon hose (rubber hose would also work just fine). Cut a piece ~3" long, slip it over your snorkel mast and then tighten down the Top Spin over the top, shouldn't budge.

Another thing to consider is using a Silicone hose in the similar diameter as the snorkel intake tube. Sleeve it and clamp. Might take some heat and lubricant to slide it over top if it's a bit tight. There isn't that much difference in space on you have it on the snorkel head between the Donaldson.

There's definitely enough flow from the motor even if there isn't a perfect fit to spin the separator inside.

Like Tim (Tango) is mentioning... if you're interested in rocking the donaldson... give'er and go from there. You'll have a much better idea when it's in your hands to create the solution.

Kurt is a kind fellow and would never be snippy or mean spirited... unless provoked with a large stick in a swatting kind of fashion.