Snow chains for offroad use.
- Thread starter Photobug
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Mickey Bitsko
Adventurer
Call a tire chain dealer/ supplier. Tell them your requirements.
Oscar Mike Gulf Yankee
Well-known member
BTW, running chains without snow/ice can do a job on your tires, they aren't for mud. Never used them in sand so no idea, seems sand could be much like snow.
llamalander
Well-known member
Chains are for mud & any snow less dirty!
What can clear your vehicle's wheel-wells is the first part of choosing chains,
After that the pattern (cost) & ease of installing helps you choose.
A dedicated tire chain vendor will give you the most info about how to make a sound decision.
What can clear your vehicle's wheel-wells is the first part of choosing chains,
After that the pattern (cost) & ease of installing helps you choose.
A dedicated tire chain vendor will give you the most info about how to make a sound decision.
Photobug
Well-known member
Some I look at say for paved areas only. Just want to make whatever I get could handle snow on a dirt road, and maybe mud if needed in a pinch. I would not be using chains to push the capabilities if this RV the clearance is terrible on it.
Read the owners manual for the vehicle; you may only be able to use them on the rear axle; and the vehicle may require “low clearance” chains - so they don’t tear up the fender.
I like ladder chains with “V-bars.” Some of the fancy “z” chains with patterns are not for heavy duty use (towing or off road).
Their is no substitute when needed.
I like ladder chains with “V-bars.” Some of the fancy “z” chains with patterns are not for heavy duty use (towing or off road).
Their is no substitute when needed.
Alloy
Well-known member
All chains can be used on/off the pavement.
I carry a set of (diamond) chains under the seat all year. These are all you need. They are lite/easy/fast to put on. I ALWAYS use tensoiners. Starting with the star
type then add more and MORE (bungee cords) depending on (centrifical force) how fast I want to travel. Lite chains will pull apart (bring tools) if used aggesibly in the dirt/rock but they don't dig as fast so it takes longer to be high centered.
Depending on where I'm going I've started to bring a second (all 4 tires) set of chains. For highway use I bring another set of the lite chains. Towing the trailer (carry a trailer set to) or unplowed roads I bring a set of double duty V bar chains. Double duty have cross chains every 2nd link vs. every 4th link. One set (side) of these chains is +/-50lbs and they take some time to put on. Off road V bar chains will dig a hole in snow/dirt so fast you can get high centered in seconds. Chain pliers
+ quick links are brought with the V bar chains.
Practice/test fit chains beforehand and have fun in the snow!
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
We carry two chains at all times. Winter season we carry a full set.
Both sets cam style, wouldn't bother with anything else on a full-size.
Just learn how to install them tight, and you dont even need bungies.
**pro tip** air your tires down a but to install, install tight, then air back up.
"summer" chains are standard twist link.
"winter" additional set are twist link V-bar (ice breakers)
I get all of mine for the entire fleet from tirechainsonline
tirechainsonline.com
And if you actually follow the MFG recommendations for install, use, and speed recommendations,
they can be used in essentially all conditions, yes, even including mud
Both sets cam style, wouldn't bother with anything else on a full-size.
Just learn how to install them tight, and you dont even need bungies.
**pro tip** air your tires down a but to install, install tight, then air back up.
"summer" chains are standard twist link.
"winter" additional set are twist link V-bar (ice breakers)
I get all of mine for the entire fleet from tirechainsonline
Truck and SUV Twist Link Tire Chain with V-Bar - Part no. 3831CV
#3831CV twist link truck & SUV tire chains feature a cross chain that includes a V-bar for added traction in more severe conditions. They're recommended for standard highway and off-road use, and include CAM links in the side of the chain. $40 or more ships free.
tirechainsonline.com
And if you actually follow the MFG recommendations for install, use, and speed recommendations,
they can be used in essentially all conditions, yes, even including mud
69XS29L
New member
Mr. Weed's V-Bars, (he invented tire chains, believe) very stout, I have a set, haven't been made in couple decades. Pewag and Laclede still make theirs in North America. Laclede is privately held, family owned. They both make lifting, binding and pulling chain.
Domestic full size trucks fit chains on the rear without question, except for the odd 2-4 links you drop to snug them up, flapping in the breeze. Wire them down. Get 'em tight, good size pair of ChanneLocks will help you argue that cam shut, and leave the rubber bands for the paper boy. Your tires will be happier is my bet.
Unless conditions are absolute horrible, I only use them OFF pavement, hoping for a little more give from lesser maintained dirt surfaces. My tires are happier is my bet.
The current crop of half tons without straight axle front ends, i.e. A-arm suspensions, have a hard time fitting chains on the front. Have a look under, you'll see why.
Domestic full size trucks fit chains on the rear without question, except for the odd 2-4 links you drop to snug them up, flapping in the breeze. Wire them down. Get 'em tight, good size pair of ChanneLocks will help you argue that cam shut, and leave the rubber bands for the paper boy. Your tires will be happier is my bet.
Unless conditions are absolute horrible, I only use them OFF pavement, hoping for a little more give from lesser maintained dirt surfaces. My tires are happier is my bet.
The current crop of half tons without straight axle front ends, i.e. A-arm suspensions, have a hard time fitting chains on the front. Have a look under, you'll see why.
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1stDeuce
Explorer
Assuming your RV is a dually, you may have the choice to run single or dual chains on the back. (Depends on the amount of room between the tires...) If there isn't much room, your only choice are the dually chains that have links that span over both tires with no center chain.
I have run both single and dually chains on my big dump truck in the winter for plowing. The single chains on the outer tire were FAR easier to install, and I never got stuck with them, but I did struggle a few times. Going to actual dually chains on both tires made it virtually unstoppable, but they are HEAVY and 4x harder to install... Putting chains on the rear of an RV that's fairly low, and has tight wheel openings will be a chore.
For offroad use to assist getting out of clay surface roads common in the desert SW after a rain, your best bet would be a light set of simple set of laddar chains. "Heavy Duty" chains are probably not necessary, and the lighter chains will be much easier to store and install. Honestly, single chains would be my preference IF there is room between the duals to install them... One of my buds has a set of cable chains that he finds sufficient for his needs on a Tiger camper. Sure, real chains are FAR better performance-wise, but the cable chains are very light, take up less room, are easier to install, and they still get him out of "sticky" situations when he gets surprised by some snow or rain on back roads. They do not hold up to any level of abuse, but if you have limited clearance between the duals, you might still be able to run a set of cable chains on just the outer dual. They also tend to do less damage if a cross cable breaks.
If you want to try a set of real chains, I have a new set of dually chains that I will give you if you are in the desert SW and can come to Cortez Colorado. Been trying to sell them for two years but evidently nobody runs 215 or 225 tires on their dually anymore...
If you RV is not a dually, the diamond pattern chains are my go-to. I LOVE them, and use them on the back of my plow truck. I plow an HOA with 10 miles of roads at 7000' in SW CO. They have LOTS of miles on them with no issues, and hardly any wear. Most of the diamond chains actually self-tighten as you drive too, which is nice.
FWIW, my experience is that Bungee tensioners on chains are always a really bad idea. Tighten the chains when you install them. Drive a couple hundred feet. Tighten them again. Repeat until they no longer loosen. THAT is how you install chains. Bungee cords will not hold the chains tight over about 15mph. Fine for a tractor perhaps, but not cool for road use IMO/E.
I have run both single and dually chains on my big dump truck in the winter for plowing. The single chains on the outer tire were FAR easier to install, and I never got stuck with them, but I did struggle a few times. Going to actual dually chains on both tires made it virtually unstoppable, but they are HEAVY and 4x harder to install... Putting chains on the rear of an RV that's fairly low, and has tight wheel openings will be a chore.
For offroad use to assist getting out of clay surface roads common in the desert SW after a rain, your best bet would be a light set of simple set of laddar chains. "Heavy Duty" chains are probably not necessary, and the lighter chains will be much easier to store and install. Honestly, single chains would be my preference IF there is room between the duals to install them... One of my buds has a set of cable chains that he finds sufficient for his needs on a Tiger camper. Sure, real chains are FAR better performance-wise, but the cable chains are very light, take up less room, are easier to install, and they still get him out of "sticky" situations when he gets surprised by some snow or rain on back roads. They do not hold up to any level of abuse, but if you have limited clearance between the duals, you might still be able to run a set of cable chains on just the outer dual. They also tend to do less damage if a cross cable breaks.
If you want to try a set of real chains, I have a new set of dually chains that I will give you if you are in the desert SW and can come to Cortez Colorado. Been trying to sell them for two years but evidently nobody runs 215 or 225 tires on their dually anymore...
If you RV is not a dually, the diamond pattern chains are my go-to. I LOVE them, and use them on the back of my plow truck. I plow an HOA with 10 miles of roads at 7000' in SW CO. They have LOTS of miles on them with no issues, and hardly any wear. Most of the diamond chains actually self-tighten as you drive too, which is nice.
FWIW, my experience is that Bungee tensioners on chains are always a really bad idea. Tighten the chains when you install them. Drive a couple hundred feet. Tighten them again. Repeat until they no longer loosen. THAT is how you install chains. Bungee cords will not hold the chains tight over about 15mph. Fine for a tractor perhaps, but not cool for road use IMO/E.
1stDeuce
Explorer
IdaSHO's advice to air down is also great, but I don't do it that way... Lowering tire pressure makes the ride 10x better with chains, and further increases your traction. Both things are welcome if you must drive for miles with chains on. (This is obviously not highway use advice...) I have not found that airing up most tires tightens the chains much, so my advice is still to stop and tighten a few times. The chains with the turn cams are good for this. You can install them, then tighten one or two cams, drive a little, and tighten a few more cams. If you run out of cams to tighten, loosen them all and hook one link shorter, then start again. Once they are tight, they will not come off.
FWIW, I have also not seen any tire damage from running chains, and plowing 10 miles, I rack up a LOT of miles with chains mounted...
FWIW, I have also not seen any tire damage from running chains, and plowing 10 miles, I rack up a LOT of miles with chains mounted...
Alloy
Well-known member
Better ride on V bars is one of the reason I use the double duty chains. The additional cross chains leave no room for cams though.
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