Solar for ARB 60L Fridge - Help!

suburbanjo

Adventurer
Hey guys. I want a solar backup to keep my 100? AH deep cycle battery topped off while running my fridge. I'd like to mount a 100-150w panel to Yakima rack and only have about 18 inches of width left on the rack next to the large Thule space case. Can any of you make this real easy for me and tell me what I need in terms of brands, models, materials? I don't want to spend hours researching, just want it done and want it to work! Can anyone out there give a guy a solid super helpful hand here? Thanks huge in advance. I think I just need the panel, charge controller, some leads, and maybe that's it but what stuff specifically and where?
 

Bbasso

Expedition goofball
Basic rule of thumb is 100 ah of battery needs 100 watt input.
Do the research as to what your total needs are ( daily ah used) and at a minimum double the system.
It's really a simple idea to execute. Of course there are many options to put into the system

Since you are new to this I'd start as simple as possible to learn, experiment and benifit.

As for brands, models, type of atuff, it's very subjective, very need by basis. No two systems are the same. Usually they ate tailored to the needs of the owner/user.
 
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suburbanjo

Adventurer
Basic rule of thumb is 100 ah of battery needs 100 watt input.
Do the research as to what your total needs are ( daily ah used) and at a minimum double the system.
It's really a simple idea to execute. Of course there are many options to put into the system

Since you are new to this I'd start as simple as possible to learn, experiment and benifit.

As for brands, models, type of atuff, it's very subjective, very need by basis. No two systems are the same. Usually they ate tailored to the needs of the owner/user.

Thanks basso! I know a 100 watt panel will do it, and a 150ish if I can fit is just that much better. So what's a good panel, charge controller etc to get it done if anyone has a suggested solution that'd be just awesome, awesome , awesome!! Thanks again bbasso!
 

jonyjoe101

Adventurer
for a 100 watt panel all you need is a 10 amp or higher pwm controller, myself I use the wincong brand before and was reliable for me and cost less than 20 dollars. 100 watt panel will give you about 5 amps of charging power. 150 watts about 7 amps. The wincong I had I used on a 120 watt panel and also used it on a larger 240 watt panel, it worked fine with both panels.
The controllers with LED are the best because you can read them from a distance, the LCDs are impossible to read unless your right next to them.

picture of pwm controller
wincong pwm.jpg
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Did you see this thread?
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/171089-Lets-See-Your-Solar-Setups

For a few years now I have used a Renogy folding suitcase 100 watt solar panel with built in charge controller to keep my aux. battery topped off with the old school ARB fridge.
This past September I went with a new fridge, and also hard wired in a cable from the battery to the ARB bumper to plug in the solar panel instead of using the battery clamps it came with.

For your setup a lot are using a Renogy non folding 100 watt solar panel for their roofs, and wiring in the charge controller underneath the hood.

Renogy Eclipse - 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel
They make another 100 watt one that is a little cheaper, but if I was doing a roof install I would go with this one.
https://www.renogy.com/products/components/solar-panels/

Here is a list of their charge controllers.
https://www.renogy.com/products/components/charge-controllers/

A guy with a Tacoma I follow on Instagram just put the 100 watt one on the roof of his rig, but not sure which controller he went with.
This is with his stock starting battery too, as he has not added in an aux one yet.
He is powering a Snomaster fridge, and it works great.

EDIT:
I looked up his IG account, you can look at his pics here.
https://www.instagram.com/smithcreate/

Looks like he went with the Renogy Rover 20 amp charge controller.
I do like that one that Jony posted above with the LED readout, I have not seen them before, and they do look easier to read than the black LCD readouts.
 
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john61ct

Adventurer
Running a fridge 24x7 even if nothing else, 250+AH storage would IMO be the minimum if solar+alt only.

Maybe less if you have easy access to shore power, or run a jenny on mornings of not so sunny days.

As for solar ratio to bank, over 1:1 is better unless you're only travelling in always-sunny places.

My rule of thumb is install as much as you can fit in the first place, you can't have "too much" and space is usually the limiting factor.
 

swduncan

Observer
I have the ARB 63qt fridge. Just ordered two 50w panels and a victron 75/10 mppt controller. I'm going to wire the panels in series, and, for now, use my truck's battery.

I have an 18h battery that runs the fridge for 10 hours before cutting out on the high voltage cutoff. Based on that experience I'm planning to get a 55ah agm battery from mighty max, which will give me about 40ah of usable storage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

vtsoundman

OverAnalyzer
Whatever controller you get, don't waste money on nonMPPT controllers. A charge controller, a PWM controller, solar controllet, are loose terms that can mean many things...in this space, if it doesn't say MPPT, you wasting solar energy.

Without an MPPT controller, you could be losing 20% or more available energy. Some of the Renolgy gear does not have MPPT.

I ran 100W to charge my 110ah /Dometic 65DFX for about 3-4hrs per day with modules tracking the sun...the rest of the day no direct sunlight. (Should have been more wattge, but I left a part of my wiring harness at home.) We were in a deep canyon with lots of trees. It was hot for the area with ambient temps exceeding 90deg. In and out of the fridge frequently...it was running near constantly. Jeep was parked for 3days. This was the biggest test so far as no other source was available to charge battery. We also charged radios and ran my ham Station. Battery was at 75% when I started up the Jeep after 3 full days. I should mention that Ive done this before in other locations with better sun - battery was at 100%. Mobile panels allow you to park in shade and keep the panels in a good spot.

I use Victron and Ctek for mobile applications. Both are the highest efficiency units I could find. Keep the series module voltage to no more than ~2x battery voltage for optimal conversion efficiency. Flat mounted panels will result in 30-50%hit in total energy in full sun. I reset my mobile panels (3x50 or 2 x 100) periodically to keep them pointed at the sun at a good angle. I've played with the 100w sitting flat in the roof and one 50w mobile on the same MPPT controller - not ideal, but when parallel connected it all worked great. Module voltage moves typically an order of magnitude less than current while tracking MPPT. If you go this route, be sure the module voltages OCV and MPP are within 0.5v of each other. The current should be off by 2x for a 50vs 100W...best if they come from the same mfr.

I design utilty scale solar power plants for a living.

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vtsoundman

OverAnalyzer
VT, this is the charge controller that is on the back of one of the two folding panels for my 100 watt setup.
https://www.renogy.com/renogy-viewstar-20-amp-pwm-solar-charge-controller-with-lcd-display/

It is a PWM, but it has been very good at keeping my aux battery, a Optima Redtop charged up while camping.
Is it worth switching it out for one of their MPPTs?

So-called 'PWM' controllers use power electronics that vary the switch on/off as high speeds - typically tens of kHz or higher - to regulate flow. Non-PWM controllers use a liner regulator - think variable resistor - to regulate power flow. PWM is much more efficient. NEITHER have necessarily have MPPT. That particular Renogy unit does NOT have MPPT.

MPPT controllers will give you 10-30% more energy (usually closer to the higher end - especially when the modules are mounted sub-optimally to the sun). Ignore the Youtube videos about people looking at voltage when testing module outputs - it is all about the MPP -> Maximum Power Point. Power is a product of current & voltage. A module operating at max/near max voltage is NOT operating at its MPP. The difference between MPPT & Solar Charge Controllers is the MPPT algorithm will actively hunt for the MPP facilitating battery charging at higher power/energy for longer.

MSRP on that unit is $80...for a non MPPT based controller, that is hella expensive.

If your setup is working now, I'd run it until it doesn't work or you need more power/energy/need to recharge faster. Only then I would spend money to replace a PWM only unit with an MPPT based PWM unit. If you're not taxing your system now, you may not notice a difference.

If you're in a less than optimal solar climate (NE/NW/Canada & have lots of grey days...then it would help quite a bit).

I have a number of cases where I need to re-charge quickly - ex: working the evening, only being able to deploy mobile modules for a few hours, etc. For the family use case: camping in one spot, play in another (head a short distance to a trailhead or the beach during the day where mobile modules would not work but roof modules will.) For the work case, mobility can be important during the day - setting up mobile modules doesn't work well.

I notice limitations in solar when I work remotely in sub-optimal sun areas for more than a day (two nights) if I don't run a min of 150W - this means using comms/radios, remote cellular hotspot, cell booster, laptop via inverter, light camera gear, fridge. Laptops & cell booster can consume a surprising amount of energy. However, I deploy my modules and angle them towards the sun -> this maximizes their production. Most of the time I run 150W (3x50W) and lately have been playing with 200W (2 x 100W). A single 100W mounted flat on my roof is inadequate for my use since I like the shade. A single 100W with a mobile 50W in good sun is somewhat adequate when I like to park in the shade. Folks have way over-hyped the issue about letting batteries occasionally cycle at <100% SoC for a dew days or a site a week between full charge cycles. MOST batteries calendar out before they cycle out. I always use a charger to top off when I get home.

I wouldn't feel tied to Renogy units - and would not install it on the back of the module (since it tends to run much hotter there). A quality MPPT controller will not need the temp of the module to arrive at MPPT, but a quality battery charger will require the temp of the battery. Since you are using an Optima Battery, they have some unique charging requirements - I am not fully versed as I've never spec'd them in any of my systems (space vs cost vs energy density). I'd look for a MPPT based battery charging controller that would allow you to modify the charging profile. I'm not a fan of using the 'load' connection in any of the controllers as I find the Fuel Gauge / %full meters are never accurate. The charging current & voltage tell me all I need to know about the battery status. I like Victron + Blue Tooth, but they are expensive. I also like CTEK 250S since it controls charging while driving. Also expensive, but it allows me use high quality deep cycle VRLA batteries that have limited charging current (usually 0.3to 0.4C).
 
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Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Thanks for all the info.
My Optima is part of a dual battery system, and is charged via Painless Wiring dual battery setup.
The only thing running off of the aux Optima is the Yaesu ham, and the National Luna fridge.

When I have hooked up the Renogy to the Optima before, it was showing on my LCD voltage readout in the cab for the two batteries that it was getting near 14v, same as if the alternator was charging it when driving to and from work.

Most of my camping too is for extended stays of 5 days or so in the same spot in the summer, so I always have some sun during the day for the panel.
I find these fridges though are very efficient as I use to run my old fridge the ARB one off of the starting battery for up to 4 days at a time, and the rig would start right up.
Even better now since the new fridge is going to the aux battery.
 

swduncan

Observer
Got the two 50w panels and the Victron 75/10 controller. In early evening light - sun had set behind the house and they were in shade - I got 28V out of the two panels and 0.2A into the battery with the panels connected in series. Using one panel the voltage wasn't high enough to start charging. I moved them back into series, and angled them into the low-angle sun and got 0.4A into the batt.

Definitely liking the mppt charger - it was 7x the cost of a cheap charger on amazon ($140 w/bluetooth), but I can see I'll still get results in partial shade which is important to me.
 

vtsoundman

OverAnalyzer
Got the two 50w panels and the Victron 75/10 controller. In early evening light - sun had set behind the house and they were in shade - I got 28V out of the two panels and 0.2A into the battery with the panels connected in series. Using one panel the voltage wasn't high enough to start charging. I moved them back into series, and angled them into the low-angle sun and got 0.4A into the batt.

Definitely liking the mppt charger - it was 7x the cost of a cheap charger on amazon ($140 w/bluetooth), but I can see I'll still get results in partial shade which is important to me.
Good deal. I'm doing a comparison between the ctek 250s (has built-in mppt and alternator charging) and my victron 75/15. 250w of modules all connected in parallel (slightly handicaps the victron, but I don't feel like redoing my harnesses just yet)...so far the victron is the clear winner in speed and energ harvest. The ctek has a very slow mppt, sweeps the module iv curve way to frequently (hunting for mppt), and drops into a pulse charge mode way too frequently. I'm pretty sure my setup going fwd will have the ctek as my B2/ alternator charger with my victron as my solar mppt. Prelim results suggests 15% faster recharge time than the ctek. Never reached the same high charge current with the ctek that I have been seeing with the Victron...

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